• New Design Floor Tile Polished Porcelain Tile System 1
  • New Design Floor Tile Polished Porcelain Tile System 2
  • New Design Floor Tile Polished Porcelain Tile System 3
New Design Floor Tile Polished Porcelain Tile

New Design Floor Tile Polished Porcelain Tile

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1324 m²
Supply Capability:
1324800 m²/month

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Specifications

China polished porcelain tile 
Size : 600 x 600 cm, 800 x 800 mm
 
Surface:Nano polished finish
 
Water absorption:< 0.2 %
 
CE&ISO

China polished porcelain tile  

 

 

Product Description

  

Basic  Information :

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

tile type

Porcelain tiles, porcelain polished, floor tiles

certificate

CE, ISO9001

inished

Nano finish, matte finish, semi polished

Size

60x60 80x80

vailable in

many designs, size, colors

 

Features:

 

1) Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

2)Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations,  building exterior,

3)Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4)Material: porcelain

5)Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

6)Available dimensions

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600 300x600 300x300mm

Packing

Paper packing and wooden pallets

Finish

polished finish with superglossy

Usage

Floor and wall

 

It’s good for hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall, big project etc

We have many different color and different design for you to choose. If you want to know more about us, go on

web please there are many new products showing on our web.

Our products are good quality with reasonable price.

We have CE & ISO9001, SASO for most of our tiles

 

 

Specification and technology information:

·         NANO polished

·         Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

·         Price terms:FOB Foshan

·         Delivery:within 15~20 days after 30% deposit received

·         Payment:T/T,L/C

·         CE mark,ISO certificate

Q: want to tile counter top with out using hardboard
I have done it and it was over 7 years ago and no problems at all. I even stand on the counter sometimes. First you will need to sand the formica with a coarse sandpaper followed by 2 coats of oil-based Kilz-It. When that it dry you are ready to thinset and lay your tiles.
Q: I just mortared some very porous tiles down and i‘m ready to grout. I‘ve used these tiles before and noticed it‘s pretty tough to get the haze to go away. Should i pre-seal the tile before grouting? if so, what brand or name? Also, do i still use a grout haze remover if needed? And lastly what is your recommended tile sealer to finish the job?
Yes, yes, yes! Porous tile, natural stone, etc., needs to be sealed prior to grouting. If this tile has a smooth or shiny finish, you need to use unsanded grout so you don't scratch it. They sell commercial cleaner but vinegar and water will take the haze off in most cases. Everyone has their own preferences on sealer, but they're all about the same. Your consideration should be whether you want a shiny or dull finish. Remember, the shiny finish will be slicker when wet than the dull finish.
Q: I have water damage on a ceiling tile in my basement. The water damage is on a tile on the perimiter of the room. The water damage is adjacent to the room wall. However when I pulled the tile up I was surprised that I didn‘t find the source to any water above it. There was also no water damage on the tile where the angle bracket held the tile up. The water damage on the tile started in a straight line from the edge of the angle iron. Also there appeared to be a larger brown stain on the finished underside of the tile with a much smaller slightly damp appearance on the unfinished top of the tile. I‘m wondering if this means that my water source is not above the tile but in fact moisture from the room. However all of my other tiles around this one are dry with no damage. Thanks in advance.
it could be occasional condensation on a cold water pipe. there are sprays for stains on acoustical tile.
Q: My husband and I laid 4x4 square ceramic tiles on our counter tops. We have sealed them and everything....So the question I have is how do you get rid of the sandy resadue on the tiles from doing the grout work?
A sponge and paper towel. You need to initially wipe the surface of the tiles with the sponge, rinsing it frequently in clean water between wipings. When most of the sand is gone you can switch to a damp paper towel to get the final haze off. BUT note that when rinsing with the sponge you need to squeeze it out until fairly dry and try to avoid wiping the grout out of the gaps since this will slowly erode the grout and put new sand on the tiles. It also helps to let the tiles dry before doing the paper wiping, so you can see the haze and know when it's gone.
Q: Immediately home decoration, and now consider the floor, but they do not understand anything, so would like to ask about what the advantages of the two? How much can the cost be?
Ordinary price wrong is not too much ordinary wood flooring for a long time easy to deformation and decay but the tiles will not be and can also effect
Q: This is what I need some information on. I decided to put some floor tile in front of my door in my living room where some carpet is. So what size should I cut out of the carpet where I‘m going to put the tile ? If you have any advice how I should go about this just let me know. You no something like the dos as well as the don‘ts
The size is up to you like the 1st poster said. The area you have can dictate the size some what. If you come into a hallway setting that is only 3/4 foot wide, I d put in a 6x6 or an 8x8 tile if you can find that size anymore.If its more open a larger tile will work well, But 99% of the time a 12x12 tile will work out fine. I never cut carpet completely until I know what size I m installing. If you know the cut off point you can cut it short of that area, leaving 6/8 of carpet . You ll want to fold it back and nail it down to retain the stretch in the carpet. If this is a completely open area, fold back the whole capet and nail down with a 1x3 or similar size to hold the stretch. Then you can install backer board if your not on a slab.Then tile , grout and refit the carpet to the size you ve installed. You can save the tack strip and use again . You may want to consider paying to have a carpet installer to turn and tack the carpet back in. This is tricky for a novice. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in our kitchen for an open house we‘re having in 6 days. We can‘t figure out when and how to tile under the refrigerator. Do we have to move the refrigerator into another room? Can we wait two days for the mortar and grout to set firm and move the refrigerator onto the newly installed tile so we can lay tile where refrigerator will go? If we do that, should we then wait 24 hours for that tile to set so we can move the refrigerator back into place?What is the best way to handle the installation? I would appreciate any thoughts on how this is most ideally done.
If the kitchen is big enough move the fridge after you have found the center of the room, set the the quadrant with the fridge first using speed set or quick set for that area. then tile as much as you can without ruining your path for the fridge. after 3 hours mix just enough and grout only where the fridge will cover because that grout may turn a different shade than the rest of the room. next day finish setting your tile, next day grout the rest of the job, replace 1/4 round, and you have a finished product provided you layed the tile on an approved substrate, cut your jambs and mixed your setting materials properly.
Q: Our kitchen isn‘t that big and I hate the tile. My fiance says it‘s a huge big deal to remove the tile but not so hard to put new tile in.About how much does it run to remove tile, say from the average size kitchen.... it‘s about 7 foot by 18 feet.
it is not the tile removing that would cost the money,it is the making good afterwards as you need a straight flat wall/floor to be able to retile it.If your tiles are sound,well stuck and not falling apart/moving then tiling on top is an option.that creates it's own problems tho,in the end edge,on a wall where the tiles just stop, you will see 2 tiles thickness as opposed to one only.If it is floor tiling you talking about then you will have a small problem by the doors,where the new tiling will be a bit higher than whatever is on the other side of the door.If the tiles are stuck on marine ply,make sure you use flexible adhesive and grout for the new tiling.
Q: i have vinyl tile in my dinning room(high traffic) its new but its not brillant ,and i saw a mantenance guy last night in wallmart using a buffer machine to pollish the tile..my question what kind of pad the used?they use any quimical with this pad?..how often this treatment its needed?
You need to 1st find out what kind of tile you have. Some tile is made with a flat sheen. If your's isnt, wax and buff. You can rent machines pretty cheap and usually a few times a year will do it. Good Luck :)
Q: are linulium tiles long lasting? how can I replace.
Linoleum tiles will last a long time if they are put down properly. You can put over the old if there are no bad spots in them. If you'd rather pull the old up, its a long process. Make sure the floor is smooth before you put the new tile down. Use the proper glue, ask a hardware employee where your getting the tile what kind you should use. Good Luck.

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