Polished Porcelain floor Tiles new design

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1324.9

Supply Capability:: 132490 m²/month

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Specifications

China polished porcelain tile
Size : 600 x 600 cm, 800 x 800 mm
Surface:Nano polished finish
Water absorption:< 0.2 %
CE&ISO

China polished porcelain tile

Specification and technology information:

NANO polished
Water absorption:<0.1%< p="">
Price terms:FOB Foshan
Delivery:within 15~20 days after 30% deposit received
Payment:T/T,L/C
CE mark,ISO certificate

tile type	Porcelain tiles, porcelain polished, floor tiles
certificate	CE, ISO9001
finished	Nano finish, matte finish, semi polished
Size	60x60 80x80
Available in	many designs, size, colors

Features:

1) Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

2)Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, building exterior,

3)Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4)Material: porcelain

5)Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

6)Available dimensions

Material	Porcelain
Dimension	600x600 300x600 300x300mm
Packing	Paper packing and wooden pallets
Finish	polished finish with superglossy
Usage	Floor and wall

It’s good for hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall, big project etc

We have many different color and different design for you to choose. If you want to know more about us, go on

web please there are many new products showing on our web.

Our products are good quality with reasonable price.

We have CE & ISO9001, SASO for most of our tiles

Q:About 7 years ago I had new tile put in all around my bathtub. I knew I would not like cleaning this tile grout. It is way too much work now that I am a senior lady. I would love to replace this tile with something that has no grout needed. Other than Formica (Laminate) can anyone think of another product I can have installed without grout lines? Thank you for your suggestions.: We clean tile and grout and seal everyday...What do we recommend? CULTURED MARBLE...Great! Seamless and last forever...Comes in 4x8 sheets just like plywood..And comes in many colors and patterns..Last forever...

Q:I rent but we have cracked a couple of white kitchen counter tiles. Is there a quikfix alternative to replacing them? We realize the solution would be cosmetic.: i..just go to your local Lowe's and get your white replace,emt tiles...get a grout chisel and get the grout out and take the cracked tile out...get you premixed tile mortar and put your new tiles back on and re-grout with your same premixed mortar..(it's called premixed mortar and grouta)...whhoollaaah your done.....any flooring specialist can walk you through it if you should have questions..

Q:The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!: if it was me i would remove them, you need to have a flat surface, and it in best to dura rock screwed down before the tile if it's on wood. the easiest way to remove them i have found is to get an air compressor with a air chisel tool for it. or you can always use the old hammer and chisel/flatbar method. but it is really important that you have a smooth surface with no dirt or you will get little air pockets under the tile making it really easy to crack the tile's and it will look like crap because pieces will come out. and when your done with the job, the next day you can lightly tap on the tile with the handle of a screw driver and if it sounds hollow it means you got air pockets underneath. if you have air pockets it is possible to take just the affected tiles out and remortar it/them. also make sure you use mortar not glue, some people think they can use glue but trust me in the long run it doesnt work that well. good luck i hope this helped

Q:Recently, my carpet got a bit singed in front of the fireplace. so, I decided to place tile in front of the fireplace. I plan to remove the carpet and the padding. what will be left is the plywood and 2x4‘s. not exactly sure if there is anything under the plywood since this was an addition and is on top of the garage, where the garage is not underground but has cinderblock walls. when my son jumps around, it kinda shakes the floor.what I need to know is if cement board has to be used. can I just place tile over plywood with the appropriate adhesive? remove plywood all together? what is the simplest method for a single momma with low funds who is not familiar with laying tile? my second inquiry is about finishing it off. I can do the grout easy enough, but what about where the tile meets the carpet? I really hate the cheap look of those metal things, but I don‘t know what other options there are except for folding (?) the carpet under (?). suggestions?thanks in advance!!: In the very least you ll need cement board. For 2 reasons.. One is to have the proper support so the tile won t break and the second is because its fire code ( unless this is a sealed gas fireplace) to have a non combustible in front of the fire place.. There are codes on how big this must be also. Not doing so could possible void any fire insurance you have if a fire should occur.. As far as fixing the carpet it s best to turn and tack the carpet to the tile.. You ll need a carpet installer to do this.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:Gold tiles and gold medals in Asia which is good: 5, the same color to see the surface of the brick surface gloss, the general floor tiles are placed on the ramp on the ramp, there will be above the spotlights or fluorescent lamps, you want to see these bulbs in the brick surface of the shadow (like a mirror The more clear the shadow of the brick to prove the higher the gloss, the greater the hardness of the brick body, the higher the durability, contrary to the more blurred the bubble shadow to prove the lower the hardness of the brick. Note: here I am referring to the polished tiles Oh, and then compare the time must be the same color, you can not use yellow tiles and white brick to compare, that is wrong. 6, if it is to buy antique brick, then the same hand touch brick body positive, hand feel the brick surface of the glaze is delicate, and then close the eyes to watch, glaze granules are rough and so on. Buy antique brick is a special attention to the quality of glaze, you can let the sales staff detailed description of the glaze production process, because the glaze is antique brick life, and the color is the soul of antique brick, so the color must be more Comparison of home, to see whether the color is pure, pick a color from the more pure product on the basic OK.

Q:My husband ( yes...the one with the dents in his head from the cooker hood ) is fixing rustic tiles in my kitchen. He has done loads of tiling with plain tiles ( i.e straight edges!!) but we're wondering about spacing these with irregular edges. Very little advice on the web apart from to space them more widely which doesn't really help! Anyone done this and pleased with the result?: The easiest way is to average the widths, and do you lay out from there. So, if the 3 tiles, on average covers 18 (with grout joints) then you can get a very good idea of what the lay out should be. Hope this helps.

Q:i don‘t even know how to explain what i want to ask.. but here i go....how do you make sure they come out straight. i know how to lay them but how do you make sure the second row comes out straight at the other end. I guess i need help lining them. chalk line will help but how do i do it. is there a website or video that may help me. ((( i lay down the first row along the chalk straight line. i then lay down one half tile at the end of the first tile row. then i continue with the full tile so i can get a staggered look. but how do i make sure that the second row is dead on? help if you can thanks. also if you have any other advice for laying staggered floor tile let me know. thanks.20x20 Porcelain floor tile.: The best thing to do is snap a chalk line down the center of the room, lengthwise. Then snap another chalk line running down the center of the room, widthwise. Where the two lines intersect will be the room center and your starting point. Keep in mind that rooms are seldom square. Don't be surprised if the room narrows or widens as you go. A basic rule of thumb when laying tile is to always do a dry fit first to see how the tiles will lay. This way, if you have to make any adjustments, it will be much easier than when they're in thinset. Don't forget to allow for the spacers for the grout line. For a 20x20 tile, I would go with a 1/8 grout line. You will need to use sanded grout. You want whole tiles in the center. The last rows against the wall can be cut to fit. Once the baseboard is installed, it will look like the tile runs under the wall. For door trim, use a Japanese saw to cut the trim just above the tile, using a tile as a height gauge. That way, the tile can slip under the door trim. The Japanese saw is a special, offset saw that allows you to make precise cuts at floor level. Buy, borrow, or rent a wet saw for cutting tile. It will save you a lot of time and make the job look professional. Make your cuts as you do the dry fit, so each tile fits perfectly. Once you get the tiles cut, you can identify them by the row and position they go in, or by some other method that allows you to fit the right tiles in the right place easily and accurately. Use modified thinset for setting the tiles. Don't cover the whole floor at once! Work about 10 square feet at a time. Keep in mind that the mixed thinset has a limited working time before it starts setting. It's better to mix a small batch each time. Use a 1/4 square notch trowel for spreading the thinset. Place the spacers between tiles to set them even distances apart for the grout lines. Above all, plan your moves and take your time. If you do it right, you'll only have to do it once.

Q:I‘m looking to replace a ceramic tile floor in my kitchen with a different style ceramic tile. The contractor says I have two options. He can either lay the new ceramic tile on the old, which will be cheaper than bringing up the old tile but then the floor will be raised 1 to 1 1/2 above current level. Or, he can take up the old ceramic tile but then he‘d have to remove the old layer of plywood and put down a new layer, which will be more labor-intensive and expensive. Is there any other issues regarding these two scenarios that I should take into account?: Best to rip it out and start new. And start with a new sub floor made for and the proper thickness for tile.. NEVER, EVER use a thin 1/4 luan or ply wood.. This is totally inadequate for tile and goes against all tile hand book guides such as the ATC and TCA guide book.Minimum substrate thickness for tile is 1 1/4 not the 1 as suggested.Thus you must use 1/2 board or backer board ( properly installed) to meet minimum standards for stability for tile.There are other methods to install but this is very common way. Going over the old with new tile is a possible option but tile setter need to know what their doing. Thus raising floor only thickness of the tile and thin set. I d never go over it raising it that much. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:We grouted the tile, and also had a border tile up.. the border is decorative and has some texture to it.We did wipe off the excess as we grouted. The next day tho, my brother sealed it, before making sure all the dust was off.. now there is some grout dust sealed onto the border tile. I scrubbed with a toothbrush, and managed to get some of it off.. but not all.Is there anything I can do to remove the grout, or even the seal, without ruining the finish on the tile??: I tile every day of my life, and I empathize. Too bad the dust wasn't wet mopped away completely. I'd find out what the ingredients of the sealer are, and try to find a chemical designed to dissolve it. Below is a general link with some topics regarding your issue. I guess what I'm more confused about is that the sealer was apparently applied to the entire surface, not just the grout? Steven Wolf 45 plus years as a contractor

Q:I think the thinset under some of my ceramic tiles is crumbling. I have a concrete slab floor and it involves about 12 tiles between my kitchen and dining room. The grout and tiles have not cracked yet, but how would I fix the thinset without breaking up the good tiles?: Hi there, in my opinion to improve, restore, and maintain the appearance of your ceramic tile you have to use the Tenax product because it is designed specifically for treated materials because 2 month before I have got the same problem so I search on a net for ceramic tile I got one which better than the other ceramic tile companies I call them and purchase Tenax product for my ceramic tile when I use it you really don’t believe the sound of crackling in my tile didn’t come by using of Tenax product so from my point of view I prefer the Tenax product so If you were interested visit the website which is given below.

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