Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B239
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1152 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Basic Information:
Tile Type | Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile |
Certificate | ISO13006, ISO9001 |
Finish | Nano Finish |
Size | 600x600mm |
Water Absorption Rate | Below 0.5% |
Packing | Carton + Wooden Pallets |
Usage | Floor and wall |
Other Choices | many designs, size, colors |
Delivery Time | 15~20 days after 30% deposit received |
Features:
l Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality
l Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;
l Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable
l Material: glazed porcelain
l Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements
l The full polished glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.
l Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the natural stone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decoration proceeding.
l Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beauty vivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.
l We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on client’s requirement;
l We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;
l Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as white degree.
- Q: We have a fireplace in our lower level that is outdated, dingy old masonry and doesn‘t fit with the rest of our updates down there. I would like to tile over it and have it ready for use before our family comes over for Thanksgiving. What is the best method?
- You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)
- Q: I want to remove really ugly ceramic tiles from my bathroom walls. I want to do this without destroying the plaster wall underneath. What‘s the best way to take them off? Is this going to be a big job? Thanks in advance!!
- remove ceramic tiles plaster walls
- Q: I bought 12 x 12 ceramic tile from Lowe‘s branded as SURFACE SOURCE with a PEI rating 4. I bought each tile for $0.58 each. I want to use the tile for the kitchen, bathrooms, laundry room and living room. The tile was made in Mexico. I think the tile was being discontinued at Lowe‘s. Thus, I think that is why the price was so low. Did I make a mistake? The tile looks good and feels good so I do not see a problem with. I need an honest opinion.
- Porcelain tiles are usually baked at higher temperatures than ceramic tiles. The higher temperature usually means better grade. Most porcelain tiles today have a PEI rating of 5, or suitable for heavy-duty traffic. Be careful about what is advertised as porcelain tile. Since not all ceramic tile is porcelain. I believe porcelain tile starts at a rating of 3 and goes up to 10 for commercial use so It would be a good tile. I suppose it would be suitable for residential use in your home. I don't see any reason for not using it, unless you expect it to stay perfect for 40 years. DIY Doc you get a thumbs up from me. You seem to try hard and give good advice.
- Q: Hey there. We are in the process of adding a half bath to our home. We purchased tiles months ago at a tent sale at out local tile store. We have some wall corners that might require bullnosed corner tiles but this wasnt taken into account when we purchased the tiles and now we cannot find matching bullnose tiles anywhere.......Is there any was to finish the wall edges without using bullnosed tiles and have it still look good???
- Bnose tile is a new simplified way of doing tile and was to remove one of the grout edges. So all you have to do is grout the top like they did in the old days a few years ago. You could also use a thin lat of flat trim, a brass or stainless steel edging, or caulking that matches the wall or tile. I think the simple grout is your best bet. PS. Where corners meet If the tile is same color through they can show. If it is glazed colored or just a thin color on top then no. In that case cut the tile back so that they do not quite reach the corner. Then there will be a slight inverted corner where you will grout or caulk. In neither case would you want to miter the corner. It will be too sharp and thin corners would be weak enough to chip.
- Q: My grandpa‘s bathroom needs to have a few adjustments made to it, namely safety bars put in place around the tub to help him in and out. The problem: every wall is covered in glazed tile (which I know makes a difference) and the bars need to be screwed in.My question is this: how? I know that using just a drill bit will shatter the tile, even a carbide one because the tile‘s glazed.Thanks much, kisses and ten points to the best answer.
- dont drill to fast nor too hard, but using a carbide bit is the best, try putting some masking tape around where u drilling hole
- Q: My kitchen floor is ghastly and I want to change the floor. I could replace the tiles but it would be more work, but I could also get some linoleum and only have to measure. Just wondering which of the two is better to keep up.
- If the original tiling is intact its quite possible to lat lino straight over the top,so id go the lino,theres an amazing range out there and of course the beauty of it is if later down the track you wish to change it you can! if you do tiles again,yes its a big job ,plus with lino you dont have to worry to much about what floor cleaner you need because theres no grout you have to worry about protecting,good luck.
- Q: I‘d like to recover my kitchen floor with linoleum tiles - mainly because they are relatively inexpensive, I can do it myself and I can do it at my pace (not moving all of my appliances out in a day). Has anyone used them and if so, what do you like/dislike about them?
- I think you're talking about Peel and Stick Tiles? If so, I'm not sure I'd use them in your kitchen unless you are an extremely clean person. I used Peel and Stick tiles in a rental house we own. The tenant got so much grease under the tiles by the oven that the tiles came unglued and were sliding around. Spaces of the old floor were showing between the tiles, and the spaces between were filthy. These tiles came up really easily, but the tiles in the rest of the kitchen were extremely hard to remove. It took days of work with a screw driver to peel those off. After I had removed all the tiles, I couldn't get any more Peel and Stick tiles to stick to the floor no matter how much I cleaned it. We finally used Vinyl Sheet flooring. (The stuff that is one large piece of vinyl.) We figured that the vinyl sheet doesn't have to be glued down and there aren't any individual tiles to pull apart from each other. The vinyl sheet flooring is still inexpensive. You can get it at some Big Box stores. It's a little tricky to lay the vinyl. We made a template using pages from a magazine. We taped them together, then moved the template carefully to the vinyl sheet. We then cut the sheet and moved the flooring to the kitchen. This worked, and I think it will survive better than then Peel and Stick tiles did. You would have to move all the appliances out of the kitchen in order to lay this type of flooring, though.
- Q: The logistics of maintaining my marble tile should be an important consideration when choosing what kind of tile I wish to install. Acidic cleaners can etch the tile, which will then need to be repaired, so watch out for them.How can I Maintain my tile and keep it clean with the proper solutions once it is installed?
- There are belowing guidances need to be taken into consideration while maintaining marble tiles: 1Use a dampened sponge mop without cleaner to clean the tile on a daily basis. 2On a weekly basis, use a different sponge mop with a marble cleaner to mop the tile. 3On a quarterly basis, apply a marble sealer made of polymer resin. 4Use painter's tape to tape around the edges of the tile. 5Mop the tile with a dampened sponge mop to remove any dust or debris. 6Following the manufacturer's directions, pour a small amount of a polymer resin into a disposable cup. Pour the polymer resin over the tile, using the paint spreader to push it back into an even layer. 7Allow the polymer resin sealer to dry according the manufacturer's directions.
- Q: How easy is it to tile a kitchen floor. Plus would you lay the tiles directly onto the concrete sub floor or lay concrete boards or chipboards underneath. I would also like to continue this to the hallway and under stairs. Thanks.
- Depending on the age of the cement subfloor, it would be my first choice, even if I had to prep it first to insure a good bond. Definitely not cement board, it's not designed or engineered to be walked on, the results downstream would be disastrous. There is a grade of board specifically called underlayment, and it would be my second choice. It needs to be nailed down to cement subfloor about every 6 inches in both directions, very tedious. Not so bad on wood, can be screwed down.This is not hard job, just hard work. Hands and knees, get up to cut a piece, back down to hands and knees. Spread mortar or adhesive, set tile, check for level, spread - set - level, over and over. And level in both directions, North - South, and East - West, and level from tile to tile as well. Really good tile setters make very good money. Very important for you to know: floor tile is thicker than wall tile. It should be 3/8 inch minimum, or 9 mm. Wall tile is generally thinner, and will crack under the stress of weight on it.
- Q: Our house was built in 1925. My husband is removing our bathroom floor tiles that haven‘t been touched since then...we had only vinyl tiles on top of the old. He discovered these tiles are extremely difficult to take out they are very hard tiles under the vinyl we have now. Then when he tried to remove the hard tiles he had to remove concrete like stuff and sand like stuff. It‘s been one hell of a job just to remove everything. He went down to the foundation of the house! I just started worrying now about asbestos. I remember how old homes have them. Is it possible there is asbestos in these? There is a lot of dust in the house because of the removal process. Anyone know? I have two small kids and I‘m petrified. I‘ve heard of vinyl tiles having them, but what about the other stuff in our floors?
- Old tile can have asbestos. The ONLY way to know is to take a piece of each with glue/mastic on the back to a local lab to have it tested. You can not determine absolutely or not if asbestos is present by size, color, or texture. If he has already thrown it away, all you can do is wet clean the entire area and move on. If you can afford it, hiring an asbestos removal company to do it would be better or hire an asbestos consultant to checkk the area.
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Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B239
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1152 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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