• Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8P03 System 1
Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8P03

Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8P03

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 PCS
Supply Capability:
100000 PCS/month

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Basic Information of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:

1.Size:60x60/80x80cm tile

2.Certificate:CE ISO

3.W.A. <0.5%

4.Material:Porcelain

Features of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:                        

1. Size:600*600mm;800*800mm  Porcelain tile

2.Various colors are available;Fashion and elegant pattern tile

3. Usage: use in Inner Floor.

4. Engobe(water proof)

5. Certificate:CE;ISO;SONCAP

6.Tile Minimum order: 1x20'FCL (items we have in stock can be mix loading)

7.Delivery Time : within 25 days after received 30% payment by TT

8.Payment term: L/C; T/T, 30% deposit, balance paid before loading.

9.Packing: standard carton with wooden pallet or per customers' request


Q:I just cant figure it out i must have wasted 10 pieces of tile trying the tile that is currently laid on the floor..it hasnt been cut at all to get it to fit..and its not two pieces..its one piece of tile that has 2 circles cut into it that fit perfectly that looks like the radiator was picked up and the legs placed into the holeshow do i do this? i know you are SUPPOSED to cut the tile in half and them put it back together..but..im just curious if there is a way im not thinking about??
You have to buy a pair of tile nippers. And to be quite frank, the holes were probably drilled their first but, you have to score your tile in half and nip half circles in either one to replace it. In this case, you have to score your tile in thirds and mark where the holes should be and gently nip your half circles. A little at a time. Try this, get a piece of tile and mark where the holes should be and using a hole saw( a round saw that fits on a drill, a little larger than the existing pipe)then drill your holes While squirting water on it at the same time to prevent friction and when this is done, score your tile from the center of each hole. This should do the trick.
Q:never installed it before i am putting in mold free dry wall and new fixtures. want to put up tile instead of a surround wondering how hard it is to do thanks
It's not really a DIY project unless you have some skills as a craftsman. You don't want to use drywall behind the tile it will rot. Use a cement backerboard. The pan and bedding mortar on the floor is the hardest part. If you have a prefab vikryl pan maybe not so hard. You can use the mold free drywall above the tile if youre not going to the ceiling.
Q:Once I removed the old tiles is there anything else I should do before I lay the new ones?
If you're removing ceramic tiles, you want to make sure that the new ones will bond to the cement subfloor. To check this, after the tiles are removed, acid wash the concrete floor with one part of Muriatic Acid 15 parts of water....BE careful. The floor should sizzle a little. If it doesn't, you will want to remove any adhesive that is still on the floor, and that's not easy! OR, go to a tile store in your area, or Home Depot, and tell them you need an adhesive that will bond to mastic that is still on your cement floor. If you're removing vinyl tile, the existing mastic shouldn't be a problem, but be sure to remove and clean any debris that might get sandwiched between the old and the new mastic.
Q:How does the tile stick up? The benefits of stickers? What is the difference between sticky and wet stickers? Do i want to be thin
Dry paste only refers to the floor tiles, wall tiles are not posted, dry paste is the first layer of dry mortar, and then in the floor tile on a layer of cement paste, paste on the dry mortar, this paste the floor Brick deformation is small, wet paste is on the ground directly with cement mortar paste floor tile, this paste is easy to deformation. If you want to stick thin, use wet stickers.
Q:I used acetone on my tile to get up some hair dye and it stained the tile white where the acetone was. i know now that i probably shouldn‘t have done this so please just answer question. How do i fix it?
Without knowing what kind of tile you're talking about, it's hard to give an accurate answer. Because your tile was blemished by the acetone, I assume it is a matte finish tile, which will absorb moisture. You will probably have to replace the tile. First, go to a tile or flooring store, explain what you did and what happened and see what they recommend. As for fixing the tile, if you haven't removed old grout, fractured and removed a tile, cleaned out old thinset, laid new thinset, the tile, and grouted, I suggest you leave this to a professional.
Q:should i put tile in my kitchen if im gonna put wood floors in rest of my house ? or should i put the wood floors all through out ?? does it look ok with tile and wood transition ??
Hi, In a survey of real estate agents they said that homes with hardwood sold for more and faster. I think it is a matter of personal preference as to what you use. I think any tasteful quality product helps the resale of your home. I personally have hardwood in my kitchen and love it. I also have tile in my bathrooms and entryway and love tile there.The tile stands up to all the water in a bathroom and all the dirt in the mudroom that gets dragged in. The tile in the entryway comes right up to to tile in the kitchen and looks great. I personally do not want tile in my kitchen as it is not very forgiving when something is dropped. I spend a lot of time on my feet in the kitchen and find tile to be a hard surface on your back and legs. Both have a long life but hardwood is more susceptible to damage. It can be sanded and refinished but it is costly. Hardwood you do need to wipe up spills right away and should have an area rug by your sink especially if you have kids that do dishes like mine water all over. I have had my hardwood for over 12 years and it still looks great. Hope this helps.
Q:Looking to install ceramic tile over concrete basement slab, 12x12 or 13x13 tiles. Main question is how perfectly level/flat does the concrete need to be. If I put a tile down and there is some minor rocking is that no good or will the thinset adhesive take care of that.
Any rocking means the tile is hitting either a high spot or there is a low spot. Low spots can be dealt with the thin set. As long as its less than a 1/4. High spots usually needs to be ground down flat. So to answer your question , for ease of installation and the prevention of cracked tiles at a later date, floors need to be as flat as possible. If you have minor rocking with no thin set down, in some cases a larger sized trowel will do the trick. Each case is different and has to be dealt with differently. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:I now want to match the tile and extend it into my living room and dining area. How would I go about finding the same tile?
Can you contact the company that laid the tile? Do you remember how you picked it out? Catalogue, Store? Even if you find the name, it might not be a perfect match after all this time. I do my own tiling and I always buy extra in case of repairs later. Storing them in the original box gives you the Manufacturer and style #. The tile contractor should have done this as he has no need for any extra tile left over.
Q:Sanding parquet floor tiles, advice please.My hall floor is covered in parquet tiles.The tiles themselves are made up on 1 inch by 5 inch sections, 5 to a tile.The tiles are laid so that the grain on the tiles is alternate and opposite its neighbour. So the grain on some go North-South, the next in line goes East-WestMy sander has a face larger than any one tile.Do I have to sand along the grain, in which case I‘d have to buy a tiny grinder, or can I just sand all over the tiles and not bother about sanding along the grain? Assuming I have sanded, how do I seal the completed job? Varnish?
complex stuff. seek using google and yahoo. it will help!
Q:I have 12x12 field tile and a strip of accent that‘s about 2 high. Everything I‘ve read says that you want to have the accent at eye level, which makes sense to me. Judging for myself, it LOOKS best at eye level. If I place it at eye level, I wind up with a full 12x12 tile above it, or at least, a 12 space above it. So going down to the tub, I would have a 2 1/2 cut tile at the bottom, right above the tub.Everything I have read also says that you want to have the cut tiles at the top and bottom symmetrical.
Provided the tub is fairly level, start a full tile at the bottom and work up. Tile will look fine at a 5 or six foot level ( I prefer 5 ft.) Not every one has the same eye level so the strip will be fine. The tub surround will be a bit different too so what I suggest is measuring on the tub wall the tile heights and stand back and look at it. Use a pc of tape the approx width of the strip and tape it or draw it on the tub wall s prior to tiling. Will give you a better idea. Also take into account any fixtures you may put in such as a shampoo/soap shelf. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. I ve also have down 100s of tub surrounds. GL

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