• K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision System 1
  • K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision System 2
  • K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision System 3
  • K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision System 4
  • K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision System 5
  • K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision System 6
K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision

K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing High Precision

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
900000 set/month

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Product Specifications:


Product

Best Price Needle Roller Bearing K 20x25x20

Precision Rating

ABEC1,ABEC3,ABEC5

Clearance

C0,C2,C3,C4,C5 is available

Sealed Cap 

Rubber or Metal

Paypal 

Acceptable

OEM

Accept

Vibration Level code

V1,V2.V3

Material

Gcr15

Seals Type

ZZ/ZRS.RZ/RS. Open

Mass

 0,0162kg

Bore Size

20 mm

Outside Diameter

25 mm

 Hign

20 mm

Regular export packing

Plastic drum+White box+ carton


industrial packaging or as your requirement

MOQ

1 pcs

Delivery Time

3-7 days after receiving your payment  

Payment Terms

L/C,T/T,Western Union

Port of shippment by sea

Shanghai,guangzhou,qingdao

Place of Origin

China

Samples

Available

Product Applications: 


Needle roller bearings are mainly used in car engines, transmissions, compressors, cranes, etc.

Our advantages:


1. Manufacturer,the most competive price and good quality

2. Perfect group of technical engineers give you the best support

3.Well-trained group of international sales provide the best service

4.OEM brand aviliable

5.Rich stock and quick delivery


Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:

1.industrial packing 
2.wrap+carton+pallet 
3.colour+carton+pallet 
4.according to your requirements

Delivery Detail:

in stock or 15-30days after P.O

 

QC:

We have complete process for the production and quality assurance to make sure

our products can meet your requirement. And our quality can compare with the

most chinese famous bearing manufacture. we have the same technology. Such as 
1. Assembly
2. Windage test
3. Cleaning
4. Rotary test
5. Greasing and gland
6. Noise inspection
7. Appearance inspection
8. Rust prevention
9. Product packaging



K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision

K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision

K 20x25x20 Needle Roller Bearing  High Precision











Q:Ive put some 18 wheels on my car (which shouldnt be a problem because I know people with bigger ones on a golf) as soon as they went on, the car makes a howling noise from the front, a bit like a wheel bearings gone, or they are catching on something? There are no scuff marks on the wheels or tyres and I got a mechanic to check the bearings and they are fine, It sounds worse when the car is slowing down, ive also had the wheels checked and balanced, there is nothing wrong with the alloys but one of the tyres was slightly mis-shapen but ive been told thats not the problem, any ideas please? Dont feel safe driving it until I know whats causing itThanks
Hi, the front wheel bearings on the golf's are not a tapered type and are very hard to check for freeplay / wear when car is jacked up...I have worked for VW for 30 years and changed many of the front pressed in type bearings....the only sure way of testing which side bearing is noisy is to spin the wheel up to a high speed with car jacked up and feel the bottom of the shock behind the wheel hub were the hub is bolted to it, if the bearing is worn you will feel a grinding sensation through the hub. This can be very dangerous if you are not careful....we used a mobile wheel balancing machine to spin each wheel up while, it was jacked up on one side... I would not try this if I was you with no training...Get a 2nd opinion from your local VW specialist or come and see me if you are in NW UK...
Q:So i just bought some sector 9 ABEC 7 bearings. Is it ok if i buy the speed cream lubricant, take the bearings appart, and apply the lub without cleaning them? They are Like less then a week old (the bearings).
First off, they are a downhill bearing, if your street or vert skating i recumbent independent 7's. Second, speed cream is only really necessary when your bearings start to wear down and start to slow and make that horrible noise. if you put it in straight away it won't do much but collect dirt. so just wait a while.
Q:I am looking to find some good wheels and bearings for my longboard and I was hoping to get them without spending too much. Does anyone have any suggestions.
Yeah, so the bearings simply slide of the wheels. I guess sliding the wheels' just the law of the land
Q:I am interested in cleaning my roller blade bearings so that are free of sand.I saw a recommended video to wash the open ball bearings in acetone but I need some help understanding how to get my bearings to run their best.I found some nail polish remover and I am planning to wash the bearings in a small bath unless anyone knows if a more pure formula of acetone might be safer.I'm still doing some research and I found some chemists on the internet mentioned balancing the alcohol to water ratio 1:1 with acetone sort of like with mouth washthey also mentioned that methyl acetate and how it might help to filter it out. I'm wondering I'm now interested in seeing how acetone might react with sand (SiO2) but I'm actually thinking it might just dissolve it.What does everyone else think?Is there a better way to clean bearings? (excluding lube)
Absolutely none of the liquids you mention will react with SiO2 or dissolve it. There is nothing that will dissolve SiO2 that won't also dissolve your bearings. The point of the various bits of advice is that the acetone (or whatever organic solvent) will dissolve the lubricant in the bearings which is holding the sand grains there. Whether you use nail polish remover, or acetone (diluted or not) or gasoline or kerosene or maybe even alcohol doesn't much matter. (Although in all cases you need to observe the safety precautions about inhalation and fire hazards, and keep the solvent off of the upper parts of your roller blades.) Your goal is to remove all the oil (or whatever lubricates your bearings) then let the bearings dry completely. Then you should be able to remove any left over sand by brushing it out of the bearings with something like a soft brush or blowing it out with compressed air. After all the sand is removed, you need to re-lubricate your bearings. (I've been assuming all along that your bearings are metal. If they are not, you need to be careful about your choice of solvents, lest you dissolve your bearing too.) I doubt there is anything else you can do to remove sand from your bearings. In the long run it's probably easier to find a place to roller blade where there isn't so much sand.
Q:Recently it moves from side to side a bit when you are driving. I has a horrible screeching sound when you drive. and it has a popping sound to it. I've been told it was the bearings. Possible the brakes too. I really don't want to give up on this classic car. So could anyone tell me or give me links to how to fix up the car. PRETTY PLEASE. That car has been with my family for a LONG time, so we really want to fix it and do it ourselves. Let's see, It's pretty much the axel/tires that we don't really know what's wrong. We are tired of getting screwed over with people who claim that fix cars but don't. So any help will be good. Thanks for your time and answers.
I assume you have already purchased the correct new wheel bearings from a Chevy dealer. Google or Yahoo search wheel bearing repair.
Q:recently went to tire discounters to get some new tires, and they told me both wheel bearings were bad and my tie rod end was bad? me being a diy'r on most car things i said ill fix em, but they refused an alignment til my problems were fixed, though the wheel bearings aren't making any noise yet, i figured i would change them once i had the extra money to pick up a press and the bearings and shims i may need to press it in, if i replace just the tie rod end will they be able to align my car?
Sure you can, but as soon as you back it off the rack, the alignment will change. Repack your wheel bearings before they burn up. It is easy and does not require a press (I generally do not use a press to do wheel bearings). Also change the seals while you are repacking the bearings.
Q:how to replace wheel bearings on a 97 ford aspire?
I already did replace a front wheel bearing on my 97 Aspire about six years ago. I needed a hydraulic press but managed to do it by using a socket the right size to hammer the bearing center down on the wheel flange tube. This wheel bearing is still working fine today on a car that sees 8000 to 10000 miles per year. I bought this car in July 2000 and it currently has 180,000 miles on it. I put Mobil one synthetic oil in it when I first bought it and it still runs like new. I do not recommend installing the front wheel bearings with a hammer. It's too tricky.
Q:I just bought new longboard bearings, but they arent as fast as my friends. I was wondering if there was anything i could do to my bearings to make them alot faster? They are new so its not like they are dirty.
DO okorder .
Q:No stupid answers please. Im an ASE master mechanic and I'm looking to hear from experienced off roaders. I'm new to offroading. I'm driving an F250 460 Bigblock 4x4. I know my u joints breaking are normal but am I to expect the same from my tie rods and front manual locking hub wheel bearings once a month if not once a week (I stay up on my alignments). I just bounced my truck three times straight sideways (that's when I really felt the wheel bearings and tie rods go out) so I know I'm very abusive but they are...well were brand new. Is there something I should do as far as suspension or aftermarket parts. I've been doing my homework but any suggestions would help. Rear axle is 30 years old and still kicking major *!*, front end not so much. I do a lot of jumping and climbing. Any suggestions would help. I have an IFS dana 44 front axle. I don't really think of a center pivot axle as IFS and I always thought it looked crappy for offroading. Could it be I need a solid axle?
no you should not be breaking wheel bearings and tie rods every couple weeks. I have done plenty of off-roading and have never busted a wheel bearing from it. unless you are jumping the truck several feet in the air and turning the steering wheel before it lands. You should not have this problem at all. either you are getting bad parts or they are being installed improperly. And as far as the IFS not being good enough I would not worry about that. The twin I-beam suspension is at least 1 of the best suspensions that you can get for off-roading (especially jumping) EDIT Yes you can beef up the tie rod ends but There is not a way to do the same for the wheel bearings that I know of. Basically if you want to treat the truck like that then you should expect to have to repair it daily. Also if the truck has independent front suspension then it does not have front leaf springs. I would think that a ASE certified mechanic could tell the difference between the 2 but I may be wrong
Q:Ok, jeep is at the dealership due to low oil pressure when hot. First thing I did was verify the low readings with a mechanical gauge. The dash readings are accurate. less than 5 psi at idle and 15-20 while driving. Dealership is currently diagnosing the problem and have tried a new oil pump which did not work, inspected the bearings which they said were fine, changed the gauge cluster to see if that was the culprit (of course not because I checked the readings with a mech gauge, but whatever) and changed the sending unit.. what else could this possibly be??
Could also be from a leaking oil pickup tube or screen that is allowing air into the oil stream of the pump thus reducing oil pressure. Is there a way to test oil pressure output at the pump or before the filter...oil gallery test plug like Chevy engines? What year and mileage on the vehicle?

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