• Hydraulic Rexroth Throttle Valve Yuken Pressure Hydraulic Relief Valve System 1
Hydraulic Rexroth Throttle Valve Yuken Pressure Hydraulic Relief Valve

Hydraulic Rexroth Throttle Valve Yuken Pressure Hydraulic Relief Valve

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
25 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Quick Details

Standard or Nonstandard:

Standard

Structure:

Check

Pressure:

High Pressure

Power:

Hydraulic

Material:

Casting

Temperature of Media:

Medium Temperature

Media:

Oil

Place of Origin:

China (Mainland)

Model Number:

MS

Brand Name:

OKORDER

Color:

Black or customer made

Quality:

Great

OEM:

Yes

Valve type:

Check valve

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:1 Plastic 2 Small carton 3 Large Carton 4 Wooden case
Delivery Detail:according to order

Specifications

Hydraulic Rexroth Throttle Valve Yuken Pressure Hydraulic Relief Valve
1 High quality
2 Good service
3 Rexroth type Vickers

 

Q: I am being sent for a level 2 Ultrasound Thursday because my previous US showed one of the babies valves was enlarged. She said all 4 chambers were there but she was very vague on what this means. Care to shed some light?
I don't know what this means in a fetus at 20 weeks since a lot of changes still lie ahead, but you can glean some info from the nature of this type of defect in adults. If the abnormality doesn't change and if no other abnormalities arise, the flaps of the affected valve will poke into one of the heart chambers. This situation is called valve prolapse. Look up mitral valve prolapse as an example. Typically a valve prolapse is not a serious defect, but if the prolapse is severe it might require treatment at some point in life or maybe even multiple treatments. What the heart will look like at birth is probably the bigger question. Some abnormalities signal a genetic defect that might cause other problems as well. Some defects cause a chain of problems in later steps of development. Your doc should have a good idea if any of these concerns exist. Maybe genetic testing will be suggested, but many defects occur with no explanation and they do not cause other complications. I would guess that after the chambers are developed, a dilated valve would be unlikely to cause any significant complications in later heart development, but this is just a guess.
Q: people tell me i need to install new valves and valve guides
You might not need new valves or valve guides. Mitsubishis, along with many other vehicles, use hydraulic lifters which give off a ticking sound. They're located between the rocker arm, or in the rocker arm, and the head of the valve. It's very common and will not harm the engine. However, if the sound you're hearing is more of a rattling, like putting some nuts and bolts in a glass jar, you may need to pull the valve cover off and inspect for yourself to make sure that the rocker arms do not have any play to them while they are pushing on the valves. If there is any play in the rocker side to side, you may need to replace those rockers. However, if there is any play up and down you may just need to replace the lifter. To better check if you need new valves or valve guides run through this checklist: Are you burning oil? Have you done a compression test (both wet and dry)? And if so, were the compression numbers within spec? Have you felt a loss in power/idle quality/gas mileage? Is your oil level correct/using the correct oil/non-FRAM oil filter? At your next oil change, instead of using the recommended 5W-30 engine oil, try switching to something a little heavier, such as 10W-30, to cancel out the effect of possible lifter tick. Do not use a FRAM oil filter if you have in the past since they're filters tend to have additives that are unnecessary and may cause the engine harm.
Q: Hi. I am planning to install new kitchen faucet and noticed that there are two shut off valves under the sink. One of them is badly rusted and needs to be replaced. I noticed that it is connected to three pipes (one of which is kitchen faucet). The other is clearly water coming in. What is the third one connected to wall? Also how should I go about replacing this? Anything that I should be careful of? Thank you.Here's picture of shutoff valve.
Ditto on the picture. It sounds like a valve that supplies water to both the faucet and another appliance. If the line not going to the faucet is copper and measures 3/8 across (OD or outside diameter), likely a dishwasher. If it's 1/4 OD, likely a refrigerator ice maker. More important is what kind of pipe you have coming into the cabinet to the valve. An older house may have galvanized steel, typically nominal 1/2, which measures about 3/4 OD. Newer homes are more likely to have copper, typically nominal 1/2, which measures 5/8 OD. Hopefully, either will come into the cabinet for several inches before meeting the valve. Shut off the water downstairs, then disconnect the two smaller supply lines at the valve. For steel pipe, the valve is threaded onto it. Use two wrenches, one pipe wrench on the pipe itself, tensioned clockwise, then another to unthread the valve counterclockwise. For copper pipe, the valve is typically soldered on or has a compression connector with a fairly wide nut holding onto the pipe. Cleanest removal, with enough copper in the cabinet, is to use a mini tubing cutter and cut the copper right under/behind the valve, freeing the valve. Take the valve to the store and buy a match, preferably a quarter-turn ball valve. One glitch is the possibility that it's an old flare valve - meaning that the two lines you unhooked have flare nuts. If they're copper, I'd plan to slide the flare nuts back a little, cut off the flares at the end of the tubes, and get a new valve with all compression fittings. If the old lines are then too short to make it to the new valve, they can be cut back further, then extended with new copper, or short flexible water supply lines with compression fittings on each end. I'm still leaving out more stuff, but that's enough.
Q: the #2 valve on my marching bartone wont lock into place instead when i play the valve turns and the air is flow is disrupted i believe that the part that holds the valve in the right positoin is broken if so how much would it cost to repair?
any time going out to restaurants try to secure a more healthy choice
Q: My mother was dx'd with Mitral Valve Prolaspe 20 years ago....she use to take meds for it. My question is she is having very bad fatique symptoms.. uld this be caused from her MVP getting worse???
first of all, if she is on atenolol (tenormin) then you have to take a pulse before meds and hold med if it is 60 beats per min. if she had trouble with her meds and stopped them for this reason then she should get back on them, and yes mitral valve prolapse is fairly common but is not something you want to ignore or stop treatment for, if she if feeling fatigued she should get checked again, she could have other heart problems. plz have her see a cardiologist ASAP
Q: I want to switch off the water in the bathroom only due to replacing sink taps, will water still come out of the pipe if i turn the stop valve
Assuming that the stop valves are good, turning them off will stop the flow of water to the sink taps. To test them, turn on the water faucet at the sink, then turn off both stop valves. The water should stop coming out of the faucet. If it continues to drip, the stop valves are defective and should be replaced when you do the job. If this is the case you'll have to shut off the main water valve or a valve upstream of the stops to replace them. Good Luck
Q: I have a 79 ford F-150 and i was wondering where the pcv valve was my truck will start but it wont idle until its reached normal operating temp i was told that it might be my pcv valve is that correct or what else could it be. thanks
You have a classic symptom of a bad EGR valve. The EGR valve lets exhaust gas bleed back into the intake manifold. I'm not sure exactly where it's at on your model truck, but there not hard to find. They usually have a vacuum diaphragm on the top. An actual Ford shop manual should have detailed instructions on how to troubleshoot.
Q: Hi.. I was looking forward to install an electric supercharger for my 2 litre non turbo engine.This unit is driven by an electric motor instead of being mechanically driven.My question is if I can install a blow off valve in between the supercharger and the inlet manifold? Will it work?
Hey guy. First off, you shouldn't even bother putting in an electric supercharger. The reasons are the about of boost you are going to need to see any REAL advantages you will not get from an elec. I suggest do what I am doing and spending the money to get a GOOD valve job and get everything polished to match and you will actually gain H.P. I have seen 32 hp gains out of a 2.2 I4 F2 engine from a probe by just adding a cold air intake, going to a 2 inch exhaust w/ header and a good valve job. Incidently, I now run 142 hp instead of the original 110.
Q: How come my boiler supply valve isnt letting water into my boiler, i have a cold water supply hooked up to it with the valve on i have tested the copper pipe goin into it and water flows into it, but when It reaches the valve it stops. I understand that it my have a backflow preventer in it and I am wondering if that could be malfunctioning. The hole you see on the front is where my expansion tank screws in. Also where could I get a new Valve. Thanks.http://img149.imageshack.us/i/boilerfillvalve.jpg/
I work on antique steam boilers and engines for a hobby and if your supply valve isn't letting feedwater into the boiler, I'm going to tell you right now that you potentially have a VERY dangerous situation on your hands. Until you get this issue resolved, I would recommend that you not steam this boiler up under any circumstances, unless you have a backup feedwater delivery system that is working correctly. Many people don't know this, but a low water condition in a boiler under steam is essentially a ticking time bomb and can result in a fatal explosion. As to what may be causing it, I would say it's possibly one of two things: 1.) The check valve has been installed backwards and the flow of water is basically pushing it shut. 2.) The check valve is installed correctly, but is frozen shut due to corrosion and scale. Either way, I would have a certified boiler inspector come out and take a look at it; he can probably tell you more than I can.
Q: I had some great answers to my question yesterday... I have decided to have the valve job done... Since I have decide to go this route... I need some reassurance, the few people I have suggessed this option to have now told me that typically after a valve job other problems will start showing up. They have said that the car isn't worth putting money into and to get ride of it.
well, is the car in good shape otherwise, like the tranny, suspension and the body?, if it is, then its probably wort a valve job, its cheaper then another motor.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords