• Hot Selling Glazed Porcelain Tiles System 1
Hot Selling Glazed Porcelain Tiles

Hot Selling Glazed Porcelain Tiles

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Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

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specifictions

  1. various sizes are available;

  2. More than 100 design andcolors;

  3. Both waterproof and nonwaterproof available;

  4. Strict control on colortolerance;

  5. Perfect effect on flatness andglazed surface;

  6. Ink-Jet technology applicationon the tiles

  7. Stable production andsupplying;

  8. Competitive price and paymentterm

  9. Stable production andsupplying;

  10. Suitable for economic endusing;


Q: In my home, we have polished tiles. My kid has fall-down most of the time. Can anyone help me to remove polish from ceramic tiles?
You do not want to do this for two reasons. One is that it will take away all the protection from the tile that allows the tile itself to be water proof and stain proof. Take away the glaze and the tile will stain. The second reason is that the glaze provides most of the tile body strength. A couple of things to help prevent tiles from being slick.. Remove all wet shoes and keep the floor dry. Hard with kids I know. Anti slip area rugs helps. And lastly there are products that you can use in the mop water that helps the tiles from being slick. B -Safe is one OTC product that is commercially rated that you can use day to day. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: Ok, the builder and an independent foundation company both say that no foundation damage happened, just some settlement. What should I do with these cracks on tiles and on walls. Would leaving them alone cause any problem? When and how should I fix those?
Cracked tiles, if there are no sharp edges won t cause a problem but should be fixed if you have spare tiles. Wall s you don t describe exactly what type of crack so no one can help there to much.. If its the wall board thats cracked that can be a big job. If its a corner crack there are a couple ways to do this. Tiles ( if you have or can get extra) can be pulled out, the area cleaned and tiles put back in. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL .
Q: What is the tile diagonal
Square tiles in the order of the first and third corners or the second and fourth corners connected to the length of the line, is the diagonal of the tiles. Not the four sides and so on
Q: how I can install ceramic tile on a wall and what tools do I need to do so? Any other tip that I should know about it to do a good job would be appreciated.
Okay, the gory details are too numerous to detail here. Basically, you need: notched trowel for your tile size, grout float, wet saw/tile cutter, tile cleaning sponge, blue painter's tape, Mastic/thiinset, and grout. The grout should be unsanded for gaps between tiles less than 1/8. For gaps 1/8 or greater, use sanded grout. Thinset works well but is a pain in the b*tt to mix and has a short working time. I recommend you use Mastic or a similar product. You will have to remove all outlet and light switch wall plates as well as loosening the screws on all outlets and switches so you can install the tile underneath them. Otherwise, your switches and outlets will be recessed behind the wall plates and will look terrible. Of course, remove power at your fuse panel/breaker panel to each switch and outlet you work on before you do any of this. You will need to rough up your wall so that it has a good tooth for the Mastic to adhere to. I recommend either 60 grit sandpaper or a wire wheel in a drill. Rough it up in a horizontal direction. This will reduce the chance of tile droop (sliding down) after installation. Mark the boundaries of your backsplash with blue painter's tape to prevent Excess Mastic/grout from getting onto the painted part of your wall. Do a dry layout first, of your backsplash to check its look before you put it up. Now's the time to make any last-minute changes. Work from the bottom up. Use spacers between tiles. Cut tiles to fit around outlets, switches, and any other wall obstructions. Clean up any excess Mastic from between tiles, otherwise there won't be room for the grout. Let dry 24 hours before grouting. Use the float for grouting. Push the grout into the spaces between tiles. Don't worry about getting grout on the tiles. This will be cleaned up. Wait about fifteen minutes, then with a damp, clean sponge, wipe away the excess grout. That's about it. Check with other tile professionals and get their tips and advice as well.
Q: Is it possible to remove just the top row of the ceramic tile on my bathroom walls without damaging the remaining tile? I‘d like to replace the top row with glass tiles for a more updated look.
they make bits for dremel tools that'll take the grout out from between the tiles however you'll probably have to replace everything so the funnest way to do it is to get yourself a hammer and just start breaking the tiles one at a time since you'll have to replace everything. however don't use a 3lb sledge hammer i wouldn't even recommend using a 16oz ball peen hammer. best to use a carpenter hammer and a chisel.
Q: i‘m planning to change the tiles in my tub area. whats the right way of doing this? should i change the drywall to cement backerboard? and how do i fix the joint between the new cement backerboard and the existing wall and ceiling which is textured? pls help!
in case you're applying great 1ft sq. tiles, and your chum did a foul interest on the the mosaic tiles i does not propose doing it. the load of the tiles could loosen the the smaller tiles inflicting the bigger tiles to fall. this may be risky in a tub or bath section. The tiles could shatter leaving sharp little shards of tile everywhere, alongside with interior the flesh of everyone interior sight. i replaced into going to place sixteen x sixteen tiles in my bathe section, and a contractor suggested I greater constructive be useful the wall above the bathe is shelter because of the fact if one got here loose and hit me interior the top it does not be sturdy. I went with little a million x a million tiles on the ceiling with greater tiles on the wall. despite you submit is in basic terms going to be as shelter as what's in the back of it. in basic terms my opinion, yet for safeties sake, i could get rid of the previous tile and start up over. bear in mind, there is by no skill adequate time or funds to do it suitable the 1st time, yet there is often adequate time and funds to do it over!!!
Q: how to install the tin molding around the edge of the tiles
I wallpapered the ceiling in our mattress room (on my own!) with pretend plaster paintable wallpaper from dwelling house Depot, and now i'm additionally desirous to do a pretend tin ceiling interior the eating room. i've got regarded at Anaglypta paintable wallpaper, yet i'm leaning extra in the direction of the recent vinyl wallpapers (Petite Punched Tin Ceiling result Raised Texture metallic Wallcovering) that are available in distinctive metallic colorations and look lots like the actual element. this could save me a number of of time portray and glazing to get the excellent result. Paintable wallpaper can look monochrome and flat except you place some extra advantageous artwork into it. The vinyl ones i'm speaking approximately are on internet site 2 of the hyperlink under. stable luck!
Q: I want to install a towel hook in my bathroom, but it is all ceramic tile, including the walls. Adhesive doesn‘t work. Is there any way to put screws in the tile with out cracking the tiles? Thanks.
Drill a hole using a masonry bit. THen use a hinged wall anchor to hold the towel hool securely on the wall!Installing a towel bar or toilet-paper holder often requires drilling through glazed ceramic tile, which is no easy task. Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit; regular twist-drill bits can't cut through the fire-hardened glaze. You'll also need to keep the bit from slipping off the glossy surface. The secret: Put two strips of masking tape onto the tile in an X pattern. Then drill through the tape — ou'll feel the bit grind as it goes through the glazing. Drill through the tile and into the drywall or backer board. Just be sure to lighten pressure at the end to ensure a clean hole at the rear of the drywall or backer board to accommodate a hollow-wall fastener.
Q: I am remodeling my bathroom and will be putting tile up around the tub area. There are three areas (each end of tub and middle part).Here are the dimensions in inches:each end is 30 wide and 81 tall (so 2 of these areas)middle is 58 wide and 81 tallSo how many square feet of tile will I need or is in inches? Thanks in advance!!
Some tiles are designed to be used in a particular pattern, not just a straight run. For example, 4 tiles might interlock to make a square on the wall. I suggest you write down the measurements as you have, draw a small diagram of it all, and THEN go to a tile place. There is a tremendous amount of variation, not to mention the use of partial tiles at the edges, etc. It's rather complicated. On the plus side, you usually have to buy tiles by the box, so that means you would be rounding up your numbers, anyway. Better to have too many than to run out!
Q: I have some old dark tile in our entry way. It‘s not an option right now to replace it, so I‘d like to make it look better if possible. When I mop it and it looks nice and shiny. Then when it dries it looks dull. Is there any way to make it shiny all the time?Thanks
You could try to re-seal the tile. Is your tile glazed? Glazed tiles should never need to be sealed, as the glaze is the sealer. Do a water test first to see if your tile is soaking up water. Put a little water on the tile if it turns dark, then your tile needs to be re-sealed. If you just want to make it shiny, you can try a topical sealer. Your local tile/flooring store should be able to help you pick the best one. There is also something called a 'wear layer' which is an acrylic floor finish that helps to keep you from wearing through the sealer. Again, your local tile store can help you with this step.

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