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ADVANTAGE
1)Professional Manufacturer
2) Competitive price,high quality and fast delivery time
3) More than 10 years export experience.
4) Well-deserved reputation.
SPECIFICATION
• 1. various sizes are available;
• 2. More than 100 design and colors;
• 3. Both waterproof and non waterproof available;
• 4. Strict control on color tolerance;
• 5. Perfect effect on flatness and glazed surface;
• 6. Ink-Jet technology application on the tiles
• 7. Stable production and supplying;
• 8. Competitive price and payment term
• 9. Stable production and supplying;
• 10. Suitable for economic end using;

Q:im going to tile the floor next weekend with 16x16 ceramic tile, and i could use some advice2 questions actually...1. when i lay my backerboard, and tape the staggered seams, do i keep that thinset over the tape very thin? im afraid of a hump in the floor when i go to lay tile.2. how much pressure do i apply when seting the tiles in the thinset? ive seen websites that show very little pressure..and some that show alot of pressure. does it need to float on the thinset or mash it down in the thinset. i just want this to turn out good...its my 1st time, and ive done alot of research, but the information varies from person to person. any added advice or tips on this project would be greatly appreciated.: First, I don't know of anyone who tapes the seams of the backerboard on the floor. Tape is usually provided in drywall seams so that you don't get cracking. With tile backer, the thinset is going to get pressed down into those seams and tape should not be necessary. You can consult the manufacturer for specific information, but I doubt tape is required. Second, the pressure needed is only enough to push out the air pockets and to get a good connection between the thinset and the tile. Especially with the larger ones like you're using, you want a really even and secure bedding. Do make sure you're using the right size trowel so that the bedding thinset will give your large tiles the overall support they require. Otherwise, they might crack like a concrete slab on bad soil.

Q:im making this really cool projecr for my moms birthdayy and i need a few tiles. plain tiles. where can i get them individually and cheap? ‘ how much will it cost? (per tile): Most tiles are sold by the square foot,(s/f). But most places like Home Depot and Lowes will sell the small tiles , like the 4 inch tile per piece. I ve seen them as low as 8 cents a pc for basic white and cream ( bone colored) . Matte and high gloss both. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

Q:My dad layed tiles in his kitchen recently. He had some plywood type stuff that he layed them on top of so they are on a flat, even surface. But then someone told him he should have put a netting type stuff underneith the tiles too, to keep them from breaking. Is that very important, will his floor be ruined now?: Its called wire mesh. Its not used as much anymore. What makes tiles or grout crack is the wood below the tiles. If the floor joists are too far apart and the plywood is not thick enough it can cause the floor to move. Even a little bit of movement can cause the tiles and the grout to crack. The wire mesh will not help if the floor moves.

Q:I don‘t want to take my tiles off my bathroom walls, but i would like to put some mosaic tiles up, can i put them on top of existing tiles: Yes under some special conditions.. Tile down now must be clea, free of grease and any cleaning solution residue. Must be well bonded to what ever substrate its on now. Meaning no cracks and loose tile. A special enhanced, modified thin set should be used. No foot traffic on it for a minimum ( extra is better) 2 days. This allows the thin set to dry because moisture has no where to go and you don t want to break the bond between the 2 tiles. It s always best to remove tile and start anew, but it isn t always possible. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:my boss wants to remove floor tiles and stain the cement floor underneath the tile, what is a easy way to remove the old tile: There is no easy way, just some ways that aren't quite as difficult as others. Get a floor scraper from HD or Lowe's. Also get a stiff putty knife and a torch. Use the knife and torch to start an area, then pop the rest of the tiles off with the floor scraper. Next, you will need to remove the adhesive. Use the torch to soften the glue, then scrape it off with the putty knife. Once you get the majority off, you can use adhesive remover, which is available at most tile stores, to get the rest off. If you can, use a sander on the floor to remove any traces of the adhesive before staining. Hope this helps.

Q:Watercolor strokes on how to remove tiles: With nail polish, I tried, get up to their own will be lost

Q:ok, I am grouting my ceramic tile in my kitchen and I sponged the tile when I was done and waited for everything to dry. I buffed the dry grout off of the tiles and I noticed that there is dry grout on the tiles and I can‘t get it off. Is there anything I can buy to take the grout off of the face of the tiles before I seal them? Please help.: use a scrub pad

Q:We have a two sink bathroom set up would like to replace the counter-top with a homemade tile counter-top - we are pretty handy but have not dealt with tile before - and before I ask my dad for help I thought why not check out yahoo answers. Thanks! :): This isn't a very difficult task to undertake. There are several factors to consider when building this counter top: size of tile compared to counter top size (to figure out where the cuts will be other than the back, of course), top mount sink or undermount sink (how to finish the sink opening) and remember that a tile countertop will raise the sink and therefore you may need an extension for your pop-up/p-trap, will there be a backsplash? will that backsplash interfere with any outlets?, does the tile come with matching end caps or will you be using wood to cap the ends? Picking out the proper material and knowing how to do the job start to finish will make things soooo much easier. I would definitely use a 3/4 exterior grade plywood with cement board and cement board screws. Some tiles already come pre-spaced (4 1/4 x 4 1/4 tiles). Shoot me an email with some piictures of the project and I will try to help you and see where you possibly may run into some problems (if any). In the meantime, I suggest looking in HD or Lowes for those step-by-step books.

Q:I want to know if it‘s necessary to use any special underlayment, or any additional steps required to successfully lay ceramic tile over a wood plank floor. Thanks!: Yes you can, if in good condition. If you have hardwood over planks, then it won't move anymore than having cement board over planks will. 1.5 inches of wood in excellent condition doesn't have enough bounce to bother tile. Cement board is overkill in most jobs. And not that great of one in the first place. On the flip side, If it is not an overkill, then it probably isn't enough. Any tile that goes over the seams of the cement board, is at high risk for cracking. Tile in the center of cement board is very safe. Mine you if the joists aren't strong enough, it won't matter what the sub floor is or how many layers of cement board you have, you can't do tile. If the floor moves a 1/16th of an inch when 300 pounds is set in one spot, then you have to reinforce or replace the joists, nothing else will fix it. This is how most plank floors fail. Old floors often are built with 2x6 lumber spanning 10 feet. And then there is the new technology: Tile membranes. Cement board harden the floor so it doesn't move. Tile membranes create a floating layer for the tile to sit on. As long as the floor doesn't move more than an 1/8 at the extreme, the tile won't crack on top of a tile membrane. Tile membranes cost about 1.00 to 1.80 US dollars a square foot. The basic membrane is 1/8 of an inch thick. Due to price most tile installers have rarely or never used it, so be prepared to see skeptics. common membrane brands: Schluter?-DITRA is the favorite of TV shows like Holmes on Homes and is sold at home depot among other places. Homelux is sold at Menards

Q:Do you seal only the grout or the whole tile and grout?: Ceramic tiles do not need sealing just the grout

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