hot sell glazed porcelain tiles
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ADVANTAGE
1)Professional Manufacturer
2) Competitive price,high quality and fast delivery time
3) More than 10 years export experience.
4) Well-deserved reputation.
SPECIFICATION
• 1. various sizes are available;
• 2. More than 100 design and colors;
• 3. Both waterproof and non waterproof available;
• 4. Strict control on color tolerance;
• 5. Perfect effect on flatness and glazed surface;
• 6. Ink-Jet technology application on the tiles
• 7. Stable production and supplying;
• 8. Competitive price and payment term
• 9. Stable production and supplying;
• 10. Suitable for economic end using;
- Q: It‘s been a while since I have done tile, but I remember we used to use sheetrock to cover the floor or for back splash wall, however I don‘t remember what it was used for. Is there special cases when you need to use it or do I need to use it every time? What is the purpose to use the sheetrock?Please help. Thanks.
- It may have been sheetrock that you remember but more than likely it was some type of special backer product that resembled Sheetrock but was made specifically for use under tile. There are several types available at Lowe's like hardibacker or durarock. Both of these products are designed to be placed on the surface to be tiled before the tile is applied and act to stiffen the substrate. In other words they make the surface that the tile goes onto into one big solid piece as opposed to several sheets of plywood. The benefit of this is that is keeps the tiles from moving in relation to each other which will cause the grout lines in between them to crack and gap. These products are generally put down, when tiling floors, on top of a layer of mortar same as you spread mortar to hold the tiles down. Ans then these backer boards are nailed down with roofing nails and the joints are mortared and usually taped like drywall joints are. Then more mortar is spread on top of these boards and the tile is set into this mortar. Floors generally use the 1/4 thick backer board and when applying on walls the 1/2 backer is used. Just nail to the studs and paint with a waterproofing paint then mortar and apply tiles. Good Luck.
- Q: newly installed ceramic tiles did not adhere to the tile adhesive
- were they walked on before they dried? .. or maybe the thinset wasnt put down thick enough to make a good bed or mixed incorrectly .. all i can think of .. sounds like a mess ..
- Q: I‘m tiling my bathroom shower and need to cut holes for the shower head and body sprayers. I‘m using porcelain tile and I‘m not having any luck cutting the holes. I‘ve bought a couple holes saw bits that say they are for porcelain, but they just don‘t seem to be doing the job. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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- Q: Currently the stairs are carpeted. I have heard that if this is not done properly the tiles will crack. How do I ensure that the stairs are level and stable enough for the tiles? Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
- It can be done, but the trick is in using the proper setting materials and grout. For starters, you'll need an epoxy thinset. These are industrial grade-- not available at the local home center-- and can be difficult to trowel due to the fact that they set up quickly. You'll want to mix it in small doses so that you can set tile before it cures. Wear rubber gloves, too, as you'll hate to find out the hard way that you have an epoxy allergy. Plus, the stuff's super tacky and gets on but not off just about everything you'll touch. I'd recommend porcelain tiles, as they are stronger than most. But here's the rub: you want an abraded surface porcelain or you and yours will be slipping down to the next level of your home. Then, you definitely want to use at minimum an epoxy grout between your tiles. Allows for flexibility. Better yet, you should use a 100% silicone as grout. You can get these in colors-- they're not all clear. You'll be using that same silicone to create soft joints on the coves (where the riser meets the stairs-- vertical to horizontal), as well. The vertical risers move independently from the horizontal stairs, and a rigid, hard joint here will definitely cause cracking. The best thing you can do is stop by a local tile distributor. They sell primarily to the commercial trade, but most have showrooms and are open to the public. Ask the manager there about your application. If he can't help, he can call one of his suppliers (a guy like me) who can walk you through it.
- Q: Why should the tiles be soaked before the tiles?
- Due to the different water absorption of different tiles, there is no specific standard. But the end result is to tile the water "drink full", no longer take the bubble so far. High water absorption, the bubble will be a long time. Rainy season because of its humid air, time should be correspondingly shortened; heat dry weather, the time will have a corresponding increase.
- Q: Do you have to rough up the old flooring ?
- Maybe. If the old vinyl tile is flat, then yes. If it is dimensional (has any type of raised surface), then you would have to use a flooring patching compound to level it (a lot of work). Also, you have to make sure the old vinyl tile is clean. Glue will not stick to a dirty surface. I would think it would be easier to get thin plywood, nail it down and put the vinyl tile on that.......
- Q: hello, this is my first tile and grout job, tiling is done now for grout. bought premixed grout, rubber float, sponge, started grouting last night, put grout on the float and applied to the tile. pushed it into the space between tiles, but it seems like alot fell off in the tub (its in the spaces between tiles) but is this normal for the grout to fall off the wall (i guess it would be considered excess?) but is that normal no sure how applying grout is suppose to look? i know i need to let it sit for 24hrs then do clean up then seal it when done. plz let me know if that grout falling in tub is normal or am i doing something wrong? ( grout is in the grout line though) just looks like alot is falling, or am i useing to much at one time? don‘t know? thx again for any info. mike
- it is practically unavoidable not to make a mess when grouting tile on vertical walls (unless you are a pro). . .but, just like anything else, the more you do it, the more efficient you become. I wouldn't worry too much, as long as your joints are completely full. One concern would be the 24 hour wait period to clean up. . . After you fill your joints with grout it helps to hold your float at almost a 90 degree angle to wipe off the excess grout on the tile. The more you can wipe off, the easier it will be to clean. I usually start sponging with clean water after about 10-15 minutes after the joints are filled (depending on joint width). Fill a 5 gallon bucket with clean water and continue sponging the excess grout off the tile and cleaning your sponge as you do it. Once you are satisfied with how clean the tile is, let it set for another 30-45 minutes. There will be a light grout film or haze on the tile. Take a cheesecloth or the inside of a sock and wipe off the haze. . .wait a day or two then seal it. But, I certainly wouldn't wait 24 hours to clean the tile, it may be too late.
- Q: Dont judge me, but can i install tile and drywall in a camper, without cracking,chipping,etc.
- You'd have to really rigid up the walls if you are going to pull it around much. Is it paneled with wood now? Drywall is going tomake it heavier tool
- Q: Hi, I am thinking about placing vinyl wood planks over the existing ceramic tile in my house and I wanted to know if it‘s possible. The tile isn‘t completely level due to the grout and obviously not all the tiles are exactly the same height down to the millimeter. I wanted to know 1. Is it possible to install vinyl wood plank over ceramic tile, 2. If so how level the tile floor has to be, 3. How would I go about leveling the floor, with an underlayment or with some sort of mortar, 4. If I use an underlayment do I still need to use the mortar to level the tile?Thank you.
- I would not lay vinyl over ceramic tile, especially if the tile isn't even. It will wear the tile out faster, and the tile won't look good over any surface that is not level. Remove the tile, then lay down some 1/2 underlayment plywood--or once the tile is removed, (and all the grout) and the floor is revealed, you may be able to lay the vinyl down over what's underneath. You can't put underlayment over the tile either because it has to be nailed down, and that extra layer will add nearly an inch to your floor--making any transition to other rooms uneven.
- Q: im going to tile the floor next weekend with 16x16 ceramic tile, and i could use some advice2 questions actually...1. when i lay my backerboard, and tape the staggered seams, do i keep that thinset over the tape very thin? im afraid of a hump in the floor when i go to lay tile.2. how much pressure do i apply when seting the tiles in the thinset? ive seen websites that show very little pressure..and some that show alot of pressure. does it need to float on the thinset or mash it down in the thinset. i just want this to turn out good...its my 1st time, and ive done alot of research, but the information varies from person to person. any added advice or tips on this project would be greatly appreciated.
- First, I don't know of anyone who tapes the seams of the backerboard on the floor. Tape is usually provided in drywall seams so that you don't get cracking. With tile backer, the thinset is going to get pressed down into those seams and tape should not be necessary. You can consult the manufacturer for specific information, but I doubt tape is required. Second, the pressure needed is only enough to push out the air pockets and to get a good connection between the thinset and the tile. Especially with the larger ones like you're using, you want a really even and secure bedding. Do make sure you're using the right size trowel so that the bedding thinset will give your large tiles the overall support they require. Otherwise, they might crack like a concrete slab on bad soil.
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hot sell glazed porcelain tiles
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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