• HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision System 1
  • HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision System 2
  • HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision System 3
  • HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision System 4
  • HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision System 5
HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
900000 set/month

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Product Specifications:


Type:

Needle

Brand Name:

OEM

Bore Size:

14 mm

Outside Diameter:

20 mm

Model Number:

HK 1414

Precision Rating:

ABEC-1

Seals Type:

Open or Sealed

Number of Row:

Single Row

Place of Origin:

Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

Material:

Chrome Steel

Lubrication:

Grease Lubrication

Package:

Plastic Bag and Box

Equivalent:

HK 1414






HK Seal/close type Drawn cup needle roller bearings HK :


1. High accuracy, High speed

2. ISO 9001:2000

3. Can be customized according to your needs

4. Can provide small & miniature standard and non-standard ball berings

5. Reasonable price

6. Technology: low vibration, low noise, high precision and durability


Product Applications: 


Needle roller bearings are mainly used in car engines, transmissions, compressors, cranes, etc.


Product Advantages:


1.Bearing Manufactory ( Have our own technical department)

2.High quality products (Long Life and low noise)

3.Well-daserved Reputation (Good Stock Guarantee)

4.Professional service ( Promptly shippment)

5.OEM Service,Sample is available


Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:

1.industrial packing 
2.wrap+carton+pallet 
3.colour+carton+pallet 
4.according to your requirements

Delivery Detail:

in stock or 15-30days after P.O

 

HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1414 Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision




Q: ok so i got a long board this Christmas and well....can i use 70% rubbing alcohol to clean them before i re lube them?and if i can then do i have to let them sit/shake them up a little longer to get them clean?and what kind of lubrication should i get to re lube them?and how long do you think my bearings, trucks , wheels and deck will last if i dont carve ( cause im only going to cruse ) only use my board when its sunny and dry out side and clean/ re lube my bearings every month?p.s. im 125 pounds if that makes a difference...MY LONG BOARD...arbor bamboo pintail72mm/78A arbor wheelsblack gullwing trucksabec 5 bearings (closed bearings )
to clean skate bearings get accetone (preferable %90 or more) and remove the sheilds from your bearing. next place the acetone in a cup. next place you bearings in a cup. stir or shake until the dirt is out. dry . reasemble
Q: ive been skateboardoing for about 1 year and my wheels are kinds slow so i would be pleased if you teach me how to clean bearings ty!
NEVER use WD-40! EVER. moving on. if you can remove the bearing shield (the little rubber/metal covering on the outside of the bearing), do so. then get a small tub/bucket of soapy water and clean the shields. for the actual bearings, i'd get the Bones bearing cleaning kit. it has a bottle with a shaft on the cap so you can put the bearings on without touching each other, it's only like $5 bucks. if not, just get some sort of bottle with a semi-large opening and put them in without the shields on. what you put in is very important. i use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, but i think you can use anything that's not citrus or water? based. swish them around and change the fluid until there is no more black residue coming out. dry them out with a blast of compressed air. then put in your silicone lube. NOT WD-40. only about 2 drops/bearing. i use Bones speed cream. put the shield back on and put them back in!
Q: Ok so my bearing shields recently got bent inwards and i researched it up online and it says that dirt and other stuff can get into the bearings easier and since im sort of a lazy guy i dont want to do the whole cleaning process so can skateshops clean bearings for you like with a dissolvent or something if you paid them a few bucks and also do you think that skateshops can also flatten out your bearing shields as well thanks if you answer
Yes, they can/ should be able to do that there. Since you said in your other question that you have ceramic bearings, the cost of this cleaning/repair would be alot cheaper than new bearings. I would take it in and see how much they charge, what they suggest, and how confident they are that they can fix it. If they charge alot then just ride them till you notice a decrease in performance. Then take them in and get them cleaned. If they don't charge much and sound like they can easily straighten out the cover, then ya, go for it.
Q: i was wondering because im getting element and alien workshop boards and they come with abec 3 so yeah thanks in advance P.S i want bones swiss bearings
going with the workshop eh.......good choice. what do you mean they come with..why don't don't you costomize your setup?...yea the'll fit !..and kudos on the Bones choice, I've been rockin' them for almost 9 years.
Q: On a big truck that holds a 3 pc. drive line and has 2 carrier bearings, is it best 2 keep the bearings level?
yes you should keep them level,because if you dont,it will wear the bearings.
Q: Recently started getting alot of noise coming from the front of our truck. The sound is like a high pit ch noise the gets louder as the truck picks up speed. I would best describe it as a high pitch or like the sound of really big 4x4 tires as they drive by you on the freeway. I did the standard wheel bearing check. Jacked up the truck and pushed and pulled on the wheel. I get no shake or looseness. I can say that the passenger front doesn't roll as smooth as the driver front. I pulled the hub off and did a close visual and i can see nothing wrong. No leaking, scaring, or looseness. Just the lack of rolling smoothness like the other side. Could this be a bad bearing?
2003 Dodge Ram Wheel Bearing
Q: Also on bicycle is it possible to adjust the cone too tight to a extent that it costs me wattage?On bicycle is there any kind of mechanism that prevents the cone from getting too close to the bearings, so I can just tighten the cone as much as I want without worrying about restricting the bearing movements?On bicycle will the cone loosen up over time and need re-tightening?On bicycle will I be paranoid about either the cone being too close to the bearings causing drag or too far causing plays?Finally are cup and cone hubs good for cycle commute or will you recommend cartridge which is maintenance free?
Not so long ago, racers- particularly velodrome racers- built their hubs using very light machine oil instead of grease and ran the bearings slightly loose. This was called trackmens slack inasmush as using the hubs like this offered almost no resistance. Unfortunately, one race like this and the hubs required rebuilding including replacement of balls, cups, and cones. Whenever I can, I still spec cup and cone hubs on bikes I design and build most of my own bikes with cup and cone hubs. EDIT: I wanted to add that ball, radial, and needle bearings which are used for just about everything now in some fashion were first developed for the bicycle. Before the bicycle, bearings were made of wood, leather, and bronze. The bronze ones were called babbett bearings.. similar to sleeve bearings today... but not exactly.
Q: i shanged all the bearings and it ran fine for 20 minutes then started spitting and shaking and making pfft noises when i hit the gas.like this vrooom pfft vroom pfft pfft vroom offt pfft pfft pfft bang pfft pfft vroom. if that makes sence lolso im thinking its the timing or the engine is not good any more.DO YOU THINK ITS THE TIMING?and can you refresh my memory on tdoing timing?make sure the number 1 cyl is up and the distributor is in the number 1 possition. then make sure its just barely over top dead center and thats about it right?
First mistake: nickel-and-diming engine repairs. You broke the crankcase seal to replace your bearings, now you are chasing a golf ball on a one-hole par 1 course. Your timing marks for crank and cam gear should meet vertically straight depending on the make/model. The rotating assembly is a precision-balanced instrument with extremely close tolerances, if any part is thrown off balance you have compromised its integrity. Second mistake: you didn't state year make or model of car. Not all are created equal.
Q: Have a heavy-duty commercial floor scrubber 3-4 years old, when accelerating and going faster, experience a timely bump. (If you've ever pushed a shopping cart with a gash in one wheel- it is just like that) Inspection of wheels reveals the are perfectly round and in good shape. Removed wheels and bearings appear fine. Could bearings still be bad even though they make no noise and have no wobble? This machine is very heavy. Parts are expensive, need to be sure before ordering
Did you check........................ 01. tyre outer surface for Flat spots on the wheel balancing machine. 02. rim condition for any defect on the wheel balancing machine. 03.axial and radial play of the wheel on the wheel balancing machine. 04. ball joints and suspension arm rubber bushes. 05. any bending over an accident....... if above are ok fix the wheel to the vehicle and lift that side a little using a trolly jack. hold the wheel from the upper tightly and check for a bearing play by pushing and pulling........
Q: No stupid answers please. Im an ASE master mechanic and I'm looking to hear from experienced off roaders. I'm new to offroading. I'm driving an F250 460 Bigblock 4x4. I know my u joints breaking are normal but am I to expect the same from my tie rods and front manual locking hub wheel bearings once a month if not once a week (I stay up on my alignments). I just bounced my truck three times straight sideways (that's when I really felt the wheel bearings and tie rods go out) so I know I'm very abusive but they are...well were brand new. Is there something I should do as far as suspension or aftermarket parts. I've been doing my homework but any suggestions would help. Rear axle is 30 years old and still kicking major *!*, front end not so much. I do a lot of jumping and climbing. Any suggestions would help. I have an IFS dana 44 front axle. I don't really think of a center pivot axle as IFS and I always thought it looked crappy for offroading. Could it be I need a solid axle?
What size tires are you running? The number one rule of off roading is to drive as slow as possible but as fast as necessary. I am a avid off roader and have over 1500 trail miles with my Land Rover and over 500 miles with a Mitsubishi that I had and have never once broken anything. So my first suggestion is to slow down, if you insist on not treading lightly and ruining it for the rest of us then bigger tiers aired down will provide a softer landing. But seriously, please Tread Lightly, they are closing trails left and right here in MI because people are abusing them and ruining the joys of off roading for the rest of us. We pack the cooler and dog and take the kids out all the time, they love it as much as we do. Until you get the ssholes in the big super moded trucks doing 50mph down the trails pretending that they are in the Baja 1000 with mud and dirt and endangered flowers flying everywhere. It should be legal to shoot these people.

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