High quality BV Electric Wire with a good price
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m/month
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BV Electric Wire
Introduction
Product: BV / Hard wire for fixed installation(ZR-BV、NH-BV)
Academic name: Copper Core PVC Insulated Wire
Model: BV
Conductor material: Non-oxidized copper core (copper content: 99.99%)
Number of cores: single core
Insulation materials：PVC
Colour: red, yellow, blue, green, black, white, two-color, etc
Features
BV electric wires is called copper core PVC insulated wire,that is, ordinary single-core hard conductor without sheathing cable, which is used in our daily life of ordinary insulated wire, home improvement wire, is the most commonly used type of the electric wire.
This product is made of high quality oxygen-free copper and environmentally friendly PVC, the performance of the products are in line with national standards GB / T5023.3-2008 / IEC60227-3: 1997.
With anti-acid-base, oil resistance, moistureproof, mouldproof and other characteristics.
Species
Divided into ordinary, flame retardant, fire-resistant.
Ordinary: For residential, commercial buildings and industrial power distribution circuit (BV)
Flame retardant: In order to prevent the secondary fire spread as a target (ZR - BV, the ZA - BV, ZB - BV, ZC - BV)
Fire-resistant: Fire-fighting system (NH - BV)
The long-term permissible operating temperature of all types of cables shall not exceed 70 ℃. The laying temperature of the cable shall not be less than 0 ℃. The outer diameter (D) is less than 25 mm cable allowed bending radius should not less than 4D. The outer diameter (D) of 25mm and above the allowable bending radius of cable should not be less than 6D.
Application
This product is suitable for AC rated voltage 450 / 750V and below, requiring the use of fire-retardant occasions of electrical, instrumentation, telecommunications equipment, power equipment and lighting lines fixed laying.
Model
1.BV electric wires according to the conductor cross-sectional area can be divided into 01,05,07 three models, different models have different characteristics:
| BV Classification | |||||
| Model | Academic name | Insulation materials | Model specification | Rated voltage | Application |
| BV01 | Copper Core PVC Insulated Wire | PVC | General purpose single core hard conductor unshielded cable | 450/750V | Power equipment, household appliances, instruments and telecommunications equipment |
| BV05 | Copper Core PVC Insulated Wire | PVC | The internal wiring,Single core solid conductor unshielded cable with a conductor temperature of 70 ℃ | 300/500V | |
| BV07 | Copper Core PVC Insulated Wire | PVC | The internal wiring,Single core solid conductor unshielded cable with a conductor temperature of 90 ℃ | 300/500V | |
2.BV electric wires according to the different properties, the product can be divided into insulation, flame retardant, fire-resistant three categories, different uses of different categories:
Model | Designation | Use occasion |
BV | Copper Core PVC Insulated Wire | Home improvement, power with fixed wiring |
| ZR-BV | Copper Core PVC Flame-retardant Wire | With a fire-retardant requirements of home improvement, power fixed wiring |
| NH_BV | Copper Core PVC Fire-resistant Wire | Fire, emergency and other special requirements of fixed wiring |
Introduction of our company
Our company is a professional China Wire and Cable Manufacturers, mainly supply Aerial bundled cable,House Electric Wire, Insulated Overhead Cable,Aluminium Conductor Steel Reinforced, PVC Control Cables,XLPE Power Cables,BV Electric Wires,Nylon Sheathed Cable,Buried Cable,High Voltage Cable,House Electric Wire,Single Core Flexible Copper Cable,Civil Wire And Cable etc. series of wire and cable products, sincerely welcome everyone to visit.
- Q: I only have 2 outlets in my room and need to add an additonal 2. I would like to try this on my own if possible. I have basic knowledge about electrical outlets.
- You have to consider the total amount outlets on the circuit you intend to add two more to. Also what they ultimately are to be used for. You should not exceed the code limit and plug in anything that requires a bigger size feed. Also important a ground should be carried through. I would research this before you proceed.
- Q: I have a house built in 1960 that has what I think is original wiring. It is non-metallic sheathed cable. There are some places (underneath old leaks in the roof) where the outer plastic coating has disintegrated. Is this safe? Is there anything I can do to make it safer?
- aluminum wire's a joke for sure, good that its copper. Anyway, exposed wires is a big nada good. best bet: Electrical contractor, cant afford it do it yourself: buy a Book Read understand, fix it, best to bring it to current codes if you wallet allows you to, just be sure to turn OFF the breaker or main Panel. if you don't remember that holding one wire @ a time is o.k. while your feet are in shoes with rubber soles, no water either don't touch anything metal just to be sure, two hands on the same wire hot is O.K. again if your not sure of yourself, understanding how electricity works do none of the above HIRE AN ELECTRICIAN. Funeral costs are way to pricey these days!!!!! Have fun learning!!!
- Q: How the square of the cable and the current conversion
- Power cable transmission continuous current, voltage range of a wide range (from 1KV to 220KV), the current larger (larger conductor), cable core number less, 3 core, 4 core (three-phase four-wire system) 5 core (three-phase five-wire system)
- Q: even if the damaged area isn't touching anything?
- If it is just the romex, or plastic sheathing covering the individual wires, then go ahead and just throw some tape around it, but if any copper is showing you need to turn the power off to that circuit, cut it and splice it in a box with wire nuts for the safest fix.
- Q: I am experiencing a problem with electrical wiring. I was trying to change a lightswitch to a duplex lightswitch/outlet. I could only get the outlet to work, not the lightswitch part. So I deceided to switch back to my original lightswitch (that originally worked just fine) because I would have to wait for someone who knows more to help me with the duplex. Now the lightswitch doesn't work either. What could have happend to cause this and how do I fix this?
- Did i get you right , that what you needed is a light switch and an extra outlet? the power line for a light switch, one passing thru the switch then connected to the light, while the other, live one is connected directly to your light or receptacles, when you switch the light the line that pass thru you switch is powered giving you a positive and negative power. to light your lamp. Now when you installed an additional outlet, you must connect the two negative and positive wire to your outlet. See to it that the line connected to your receptacles is not altered but connected to one terminal of your outlet say as the positive line,while the other line the negative line, connected to your outlet should extend thru your switch then from switch this line shall be connected to your receptacle to complete the connection. I presumed that you know how to connect the wire to your switch. This is only a single live wire, cut off into two, one connected to he upper terminal of your switch and the one one connected to lower terminal then this line is connected to the terminal of your receptacle to complete the cycle. Check that even if your light is off, your outlet must be energised if it is not, then review your connection The failure of your light switch might be due to loose connection or parts of it isn't working anymore that you need to change it to new one.
- Q: 1) I want to install a ceiling light fixture (chandelier style) but I don't have a ceiling outlet box. 2) I want to convert the chandelier to a lamp that gets plugged into a regular outlet, so I have a) the chandelier w/ it's own cord (meant to be attached to the ceiling box) and b) 20 ft of regular cord attached on one end to a quick clamp plug.3) On the 20ft regular cord, and I can tell on this cord which wire is hot b/c one side is smooth (hot) and the other side is ribbed (neutral). Unfortunately, the cord from the chandelier itself is SMOOTH on all sides and is not marked white/black, smooth/ribbed, hot/neutral or with any other indicator that would allow me to tell which side is which. Hence, I don't know which chandelier wire to attach to which cord wire.Please help!
- There are lots of clues that only a pro will recognise, for example the type of cable, insulation and sheathing, make and style of fusebox and accessories fitted, and many other things. Some parts of your installation may be newer than others, and new accessories often hide ancient wiring!
- Q: If anyone could answer this and provide a source I would appreciate it.
- (Quoted from source): Most homes have two incoming voltages: 120 volts for lighting and appliance circuits and 240 volts for larger air conditioning and electric dryer circuits. When an appliance switch is turned on, electrical current flows through the wire, completing the electrical circuit and causing the appliance to operate. The amount of flowing current is called amperage. Most lighting circuits in the home are 15 amp circuits. Most electric dryers and air conditioners require larger 30 amp circuits. The amount of electrical power needed to make an appliance operate is called wattage and is a function of the amount of current flowing through the wire (amperage), and the pressure in the system (voltage). Mathematically speaking, volts x amps watts. So, if we have a 120 volt system and a 15 amp current, we can flow a maximum of 120 x 15 or 1,800 watts on a typical lighting or appliance circuit. When too many lights or appliances are attached to the electrical system, it will overload and overheat. This can cause the wire insulation to melt and ignite, resulting in an electrical fire. The amount of electrical current flowing through wire is affected by resistance. This is known as ohms. Resistance causes increased heat in the wire. Heat is the byproduct that makes some appliances work, such as an iron, toaster, stove or furnace. Large current faces high resistance when moving through a small wire. This generates lots of heat. That's how an incandescent light bulb works. Resistance through the light filament causes it to heat up which gives off a bright light. Electrical resistance also is affected by the length of a wire. Operating an electrical hedge clipper with a long extension cord increases resistance and might cause the cord to overheat, melt or ignite. The same occurs if too many strands of Christmas lights are connected together.
- Q: Electrical line is already available so what are pros and cons other than ease of installation for solar-powered? This is for a walkway from our driveway to front steps.
- Go Electrical!! Solar is very flawed, sometimes they don't light if it has been cloudy all day, and they do not light very much. Solar is really just decorative, not very practical. Not to mention they break easily and you will be replacing the batteries constantly. If you need to actually LIGHT the walkway, you have to go electrical. The only downside might be installation and price. You have to run the line to each light and bury them. And they are considerably more expensive. Additionally you have to get a timer that could be pricey if you plan to have a lot of lights.
- Q: Hi, I am building a greenhouse in my backyard and had a few questions as to how i should wire it. The appliances I will have in the greenhouse include.A 400 watt light.a 115 volt pump, an oscillating fanand a ventilation fanI can't remember the wattage of the two fans. But my question is will I need to run more than one wire out to my greenhouse? The wire I have says its max voltage is 600. any tips and advice would be nice.
- Many extension cords particularly are not rated for out of doors exposure. you're able to get away with it, yet a bigger way could be to purchase some form UF romex. probably 14-2 with floor would be ok for what you're doing. placed a plug on each and every end and Voila! you have an out of doors twine.
- Q: 2000W electric water heater and a hanging Yuba how much wire and plug
- The white horizontal line described is called the flyback line, which indicates that there is a fault in the video circuit or the circuit around the tube so that the image signal can not be sent to the cathode of the kinescope, and that there is no way to adjust The image must come to the professional, and the man should be asked to perform the maintenance.
Send your message to us
High quality BV Electric Wire with a good price
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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