High Performance WC6 Pressure Safety Valve

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Application:
A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.

Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:

♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves

♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels

Peformance:
♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows

♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C

♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)

♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527

Features:

♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.

♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.

♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.

♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.

Q: i was filling the tire on my car and the valve stem completely came out when i finished, quickly deflating the tire. i could push it back in but then the process repeated itself when i tried refilling it again. is there part of the stem i'm not seeing. the stem that i saw was long and straight and threaded. advise, thoughts? thanks.: are okorder /... to see a picture of one The valve is threaded into the stem The stem has threads inside and out ,internal threads are for the schrader valve and external threads are for the stem cap If the stem came out there is damage to the stem and it needs to be replaced ,but if the valve came out try using a schrader tool to screw it back in

Q: How would your car run if u did not have one on it? Do u really need to have a pcv valve? I have a 1994 Ford Econoline: PCV valves don't really affect the way a car runs. Unless you leave the hose to it open, creating a massive vacuum leak. They're to keep acidic gases from building up in your crankcase. Without it, you would need to change your oil a lot more often. Before about 1965 or so, cars had what's called a road draft tube, which through a venturi effect, drew out these vapors. Some sort of crankcase ventilation has been used pretty much as long as there have been cars. Many newer vehicles don't actually use a valve, but a calibrated orifice instead.

Q: Mostly suction apparatus with dual head motor, consist a non-return valve, what is its function to have it on the apparatus and not to have it?: It depends on the size and pressure rating as to the material used. Small lower pressure valves can be brass or bronze while larger high press valves will be made from cast steel. Brass can be used for some internals because it is corrosion resistant. It is also softer which makes is good for seating material.

Q: is a 4 cylinder 16 valve.... 5 stars for the best answer....: mazda dealer or find one in the junk yard.

Q: I have an old trumpet valve stem that will not screw in the valve cap. I ordered a new one but I'm not sure how to remove the old one and put the new one on without doing anything that would influence the look and playing. HELP!!! Professionals are welcome and others. I don't have any professional technicians near by .Summer band is starting up so I need this FAST.: I hope you have a Bach trumpet, because each valve stem is specific to a particular maker and even to specific models. So, if you don't have a Bach trumpet it is very likely that the stem won't fit. If you cannot remove the valve stem with your hands you can try soaking the joint with oil and/or warm water and dishwasher detergent. You should give yourself a couple of days to see if you can loosen them up. Do not use tools--no screwdrivers, no pliers, no vices, no strap wrenches--if you don't know what you're doing you stand to damage the very fragile valve. You may need to take it to a tech--remember you're trying to avoid a $100+ dollar bill for repairing a damaged valve.

Q: Im putting in a new EGR Valve for my 94' Mazda MX-3 V6 1.8L and i was wondering if anyone had a guide or some special tips on what or what not to do...Thanks.: Most of the time its not the EGR Valve, this something else. Do you no what code or codes were found ? I've seen the O-ring missing on the PVC valve alot and this trips a EGR code, Check the PVC Valve for the O-Rings or when the engines ruining open the oil cap and check to see if theres a large vacuum there. If so the O-ring is missing.

Q: Hello, I have a 1990 BMW 525i.I would like to paint the valve cover where the BMW was written between a set of lines.I think I require a heat resitant paint for doing this.Can anyone advice the brand which will be best suited for this job.Is it advisable to chrome plate the valve cover.?with regards,natarajBahrain: The BMW valve covers are made of aluminum. You can repaint these valve covers using hardware store spray paints without any problem from high temperatures. The valve cover should be removed and degreased with something like Gunk. The spray paints will not adhere to any parts with oil or grease contamination. The acorn retaining nuts should also be painted the same aluminum color. You should take the acorn nuts off their studs and insert them onto a piece of cardboard where you can overspray two or three coats of aluminum paint. Chromed acorn nuts do not look good with aluminum color valve covers. Do not attempt any underhood painting with spray paint unless everything within 4 feet is carefully masked off. Be very careful with spray painting things like thermostat housings, coolant hoses, and spark plug wires looms. You can buy 4 mm chrome plated flat washers from many hardware stores for about 5 cents apiece. I think you will need about 30 flat washers for the 2.5 litre engine. Good luck. You can try the engine paints if you like, but they are much more expensive and not any better looking. If you wanted to paint your exhaust manifold, I would suggest the high temperature paints designed for 1000 deg. C. temperatures. Some hot rodders use enamal coatings on the exhaust manifolds. BMW exhaust manifolds are very hard to see from under hood viewing as they should have asbestos heat shields to protect spark plugs, gaskets, and plug wires from excessive heat.

Q: I am looking for a full valve guitar amp for around ?300.It needs to be loud enough to play with a quietish drum kit.Currently i have looked at an epiphone valve senior in both and combo and cab and head form. i have also looked at some smaller amps such as the vox ac4 but am a bit worried about its small size. any advice would be greatly welcome. many thanks in advance.: Well I have the Valve Jr. and the AC4. The AC4 is a good sounding amp, but even though it is only 1 watt less, the Valve Jr. is much louder. The AC4 is a great practice amp but not enough to jam with a drummer unless he is pretty quiet and you really crank the amp. Never heard one of the new Valve Sr. models but with all of the goodies they added it should sound really good. I had my Jr. modified but it still doesn't have all the cool stuff the Senior has. I think you would really like the Epiphone and at 20 watts you will be more than loud enough. My 5 watt Jr. will get very loud. All I own are low watt class A valve amps, it's the only way to fly!! The Marshall Class 5 might be worth looking at also.

Q: how long do people usually live after mitral valve repair?: Very basically: The procedure is open heart and entails a complex system of sustaining life outside your body. The complications can vary. If you get a mechanical valve placed, your risk of embolus increases. Emboli can cause strokes and/or a fatal episode. However, once one recovers from either surgery (typically a short stint in the ICU but varying by the individual) the quality of life improves to better than pre-op. The need for a replacement may arise down the line. Barring any blood clots or infections, a MVP repair/replacement surgery does not by itself indicate anything about how long a patient survives post-op. A repair surgery tends to yield fewer long-term complications simply because no foreign tissue or synthetic material was introduced into one's system and the whole procedure is significantly lower risk in terms of infection. The risk of failure of a repaired valve is significantly lower than that of a replaced valve. Lots of variables influence the outcome though, and if this is a personal matter, I strongly suggest you speak candidly with your cardiologist. Bottom line: Repair surgery is generally safer and can allow the patient to live life fully.

Q: My furnace cut out about a year ago. The hvac guy i used told me the gas valve was no good and that the flu was partially blocked. I cleaned out the flu, he replaced the gas valve ($700+) and it worked great for a year. Today the furnace does not fire up. Pilot is working. I cleaned out the flu (there was definitely quite a bit of debris, so that was probably the cause for the shut off) .... The flu is now clear, but when i turn the system back on the thermostat calls for heat, but there is no gas flow to the burner... could the valve have failed that quick, or should i be looking at something else like the CO sensor or something... just looking for some direction before shelling out another 700 bucks... Thanks in advance for any ideas or assistance....: There are a few possibilities. The valve runs on a low voltage line. The low voltage is provided by a transformer. It it possible the transformer is bad. Be sure the power switch to the furnace is on. (should be on the side of the furnace. Easy way to check is (on the thermostat) turn the fan switch from auto to run. The blower fan should come on. Check that the gas valve is in the ON position.(if you have had to light the pilot it may still be in pilot position.) Another possibility is a clogged gas line. If you have an older home rust can accumulate inside the iron gas lines. Where the gas line attaches to the furnace there should be a drip leg. This is a short length of pipe that points down with a cap on it from the TEE that goes into the furnace. This short piece of pipe is to catch any moisture or rust that comes thru the line. First TURN OFF the gas at the shut off in the pipe it's self. This is a quarter turn valve. When the handle is in line with the pipe the gas is on. When it is opposite the pipe (pointing out to the side) the gas is off. After turning the gas off, remove the cap from the bottom of the drip leg to remove any accumulation.USE PIPE DOPE not teflon tape when putting the cap back on.Turn the gas valve back on and check for leaks.

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