Grade 42.5 R/N P.O CMENT

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I. CEMENT STANDARD

1.Vietnam standard (TCVN)

- Quality of Cement as per TCVN 6260 - 2009

2.European standard (EN)

- Certificate I -EN 197-1.2000- CEM II 42,5 R

- Certificate II - En 197-1.2000 CEM II 42,5N

- Certificate III - EN 197-1.2000 CEM I 42,5R

3.American standard (ASTM)

- ASTM C150 TYPE-1

- ASTM C1157 TYPE- GU

- ASTM C1157 TYPE- HE

II. SPECIFICATIONS FOR ORIDINARY PORTLAND CEMENT AS PER EN 197-1:2000/CEM II 42.5

Items	Units	Specification	Test Results	Test Method
SiO2	%	≤ 26.00	23.41	EN 196-2
Al2O3	%	≤ 6.50	5.50
Fe2O3	%	≤ 4.50	3.60
CaO	%	≥ 54.00	57.00
MgO	%	≤ 5.00	2.75
SO3	%	≤ 3.5	2.56
Loss on Ignition, (LOI)	%	≤ 10.00	7.00
Insoluble Residue	%	≤ 12	6.00
Physical and Mechanical Properties
Finess test				EN 196-6
- Blaine	cm2/g	≥ 3200	3800
- Retained content on sieve 75mm	%	< 15.0	0.10
Time of setting - Initial set - Final set	Minutes	≥ 75 < 420	145 200	EN 196-3
Soundness (LeChatelier)	mm	< 10.0	1.0	EN 196-3
Compressive strength	MPa			EN 196-1
2 Days		≥ 20.0	23.0
3 Days		-	27.0
7 Days		-	37.0
28 Days		≥ 42.5	50.0

Q: If you stood in a pool of wet cement up to your shoulders, would you be crushed as the cement dried or would it be molded around you?: well neither actually, but it would be unpleasant and you'd probably still die, being buried to your shoulders in wet sand would have the same effect... each time you exhaled and your chest depressed the cement would take up the space, as it slowly dried the space you were in would become smaller and smaller and by the time it dried the space you were in would be so tight you wouldn't have room for your chest to expand when inhaling and you would suffocate. I guess you could survive if you kept your hands in front of you to keep room open for your chest expansions.

Q: the big pieces came from a old cement gold fish pond in my yard .: best bet sledge hammer easy way eletric jack hammer home depo rents them good luck

Q: and what is their #Basically, in out rental house, it looks like the guy dumped a bucket of motor oil on the garage floor and then used the oil to paint a section of the floor. And his car dripped everywhere on the other half of the garage. So now the while garage has drips of oil everywhere and looks kind of like the black parts of this freeway. And to make matters worse, it is totally soaked in to the cement.: I used degreaser on mine I found it at the automotive store. and than I hosed it down with a power washer.

Q: The cement is 1.5 ft thick about and its a normal pain of glasss: CEMENT, definitely, due to its thickness and internal structure. the switch from air pockets to hard cement over and over again for 1.5 ft is a terrible process for wifi to try and fight.

Q: i am making a disc golf course tee for my boy scout eagle project. i know a little about cement, but for anyone who knows a lot about cement construction, can you explain this...i need to make a rectangular and circular tee(which is a cement platform where one would stand while throwing a disc). the circle has a diameter of 11ft and rectangle is 11x9. I will be building it on dirt, which is level. I think i will need to dig a hole in the ground in the shape i want. then i have some gravel to put in. then cement in the hole. anyone know how much gravel, or if any, i should put in before i lay in the cement in the hole? thanks people!: gravel will help prevent the ground underneath your platform from eroding away. 4 inches of gravel should work for you project. If you really want to try and keep the cracking and shifting to a minimum you should dig a could of piers or post holes below the frost line in your area (normally pretty deep) then pour the concrete mix in to add stability.

Q: whats cheaper stamped cement-tile-or a cement overlay: really about the same , unless you know how to pour,and fix cement ,and polish it , you better use tiles, but unless you have a cement floor, you must have backer cemant board at least 1/2 thick. at least you can change the tiles out if you get bored with them right?

Q: is there any alternative material for cement?: i don't know about that but here in egypt there is tafla bricks mainly dry clay, with some hay and its used since the pharaohs, but now its only used in countries .. and the pharaohs didn't use cement of course so there is a very natural alternative for cement which is wet clay from the nile probably mixed with cow poo ...

Q: why has the price of portland cement increased from 2007 to now?: Maybe its getting scarce im just guessing here...

Q: I tried to set anchor but its to sandy and i drove it straight through. I'm assuming I need to replace? Is there anything else I can do to cure the concrete to make it hard?: erm let it dry! otherwise youve got an expensive conctete block problem thats gotta get dug up

Q: I need to repair my sidewalk and I've seen cement having these little cracks in it after it's dried; anyone knows of a way to prevent this?: The cement cracking you are describing is probably coming from it setting too quickly. You can think of the idea with the analogy of stretching an object. If I take my time, I can stretch an object without breaking it to achieve the desired length. On the other hand if I suddenly pulled that object to get the same length I would tear it. Concrete must be well hydrated to set, and it must have sufficient time to cure! If after mixing the cement, you lay it on a hot, dry object you are taking the water out of the mix, causing it to lose hydrating ability and time to cure! Wet the surface on which you want to place the concrete or cement, then lay burlap or some type of covering to slow the process down. Wet the burlap, but do not spray the cement directly!

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