• Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II System 1
  • Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II System 2
  • Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II System 3
  • Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II System 4
  • Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II System 5
  • Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II System 6
Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II

Highest quality for Portland cement 42.5/52.5/Type I Standard/TYPE I/II

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m.t.
Supply Capability:
500000 m.t./month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing


PORTLAND CEMENT


Portland cement is the most common type of cement in general use around the world, used as a basic ingredient of concrete, mortar, stucco, and most non-specialty grout.

It is a fine powder produced by heating materials in a kiln to form what is called clinker, grinding the clinker, and adding small amounts of other materials. 

Several types of Portland cement are available with the most common being called ordinary Portland cement (OPC) which is grey in color, but a white Portland cement is also available.


Application

CNBM Cement can be used for all types of architectural or structural concrete construction. Such application as pre-cast panels and systems, cast-in-place, masonry units, tilt-up panel systems, roofing tiles, terrazzo floors, highway median barriers, tile grout, swimming pools, stucco, culture stone,colored masonry products, cement paints and coatings, and ornamental precast concrete items.


CNBM INTERNATIONAL CORPORATION (short for the Company) is a subsidiary of China National Building Material Group Co., Ltd. (short of CNBM Group). China National Building Material Group is a state owned enterprise under directly management of the State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission of the State Council, and ranked 187 in the world's top 500 in 2019. China National Building Materials Group is the world's largest comprehensive building materials industry group, the world's leading new material developer and comprehensive service provider, and has the strongest scientific research strength in the field of building materials and non-metal new materials. CNBM INTERNATIONAL CORPORATION is a brand-new platform built by China National Building Materials Group that focuses on non-metallic materials trading.

 


Q:Are you a trading company or manufacturer?

A:CNBM is a large-scale central governmental industrial group with its own manufacturing sector, research and development sector, trading sector and logistics sector.

 

Q:I have some special requirement about specifications.

A:We have a well-rounded product range, which endows us with the capability of applying many special specifications. Please feel free to contact us with yours.

 

Q:Do you accept OEM service?

A:Yes, we do.

 

Q:What is your delivery time?

A:It depends on the size/complexity of your order and our own production schedule. Usually we provide a faster delivery than the industry's average.

 

Q:What is the payment term?

A:TT and LC are both Okay.

 

Q:Can I have my own logo on the product?

A:Sure, we can apply your own logo on the products according to your drawings.


Q: I have tile borders that have been used as a design form between 2 set of tiles unfortunately the person performing the tiling bit has applied direct cement onto it and has caused it to harden and set. Now the cement is hard to scrape off since the border has designs grooved on it and is also covered with grout colour. Can anyone please help me out and tell me how to remove grout colour and cement from it.
If you have grout then it seems likely you have ceramic tiles. You can easily remove extra cement by using a rotary brass brush in an electric drill. You can buy them at most hardware stores. Use light pressure, low speed, and a bit of patience to remove the cement. When all of the large parts are gone, then clean the remaining bits with a bit of extra fine steel wool and a kitchen cleanser, such as Ajax or Comet. The brush may leave some dark marks, especially if you overheat the contact area: these will usually disappear with the cleanser.
Q: I cant figure out what consistency to mix this cement at. I am pouring it for a shower but need to know how much water to add. I would REALLY like an exact calculation, like 20 parts cement to 1 part water for example. Anybody know? Thank you! Again, this is for a shower......
For a shower I would mix at 5 to 1. Five sand ,one cement. Make it wet enough that it comes out of the mixer by it's own without you having to dig it out. It can be fairly wet but not sloppy.
Q: General taxpayer commerce company sales of cement, building materials products should be handed a few points
General taxpayer commerce company sales of cement, building materials products, applicable 17% VAT rate
Q: My cat has urinated on the cement basement floor around the area of the litter box. It is my fault for not cleaning the litter box right away, but now I have a problem! I have tried dousing the area with vinegar and letting it air dry. Any other suggestions?
There's okorder and type in 'removing pet urine from concrete floor' and you'll find things that work. Vinegar isn't going to do it.
Q: Thinking about playing a trick on my kids with little footprints on the cement porch. Would food coloring wash out, or should I use something else?
You would likely have to use something that is water soluble because cement is porous and will absorb liquids on its surface. If it were me, I wouldn't use food coloring, I'd use water color paint. You could probably find it at a hobby store. If the cement area where you are planning this caper is exposed to the weather, the footprints should disappear after a short time. If they need to disappear more quickly, some diluted bleach would speed the process along. You can also speed the process of making the tracks by making a stamp from a potato. Just carve enough away from the potato to leave a mound that sticks out/up in the shape you want the tracks. You can then just dip the potato into whatever colored mixture you decide on, and quickly stamp your tracks on the cement. That would be quicker than drawing the tracks if you're planning on quite a few tracks. Good luck with the prank!
Q: or can i just start laying it directly on top of the cement floor?
woodtick gave you exactly the right answer,,, existing cracks in your slab WILL transfer through the tile work fairly quickly.
Q: I need to mix 25 pounds of cement for a garden project ( a large stepping stone). In the past I have found it really difficult and physically tough to get the cement mixed relatively quickly to get the cement poured in the mold. I am mixing in a mop bucket. Does anyone have any suggestions to make this project easier?
Use a wheelbarrow. Its durable enough to take it and it can quite easily be hosed cleaned afterwards. When mixing concrete you don't have to be too exact with measuring. Use a round top shovel and in a ratio of about 1:2:4 (1 cement, 2 sand, 4 stone). So you can try it with 2 shovel fulls of cement, 4 shovel fulls of sand, and 8 shovel fulls of stone. Blend together. Add water to the consistency you desire.
Q: I know the cement board is supposed to be cut 1/4 inch above the rub flange, but what if you install the cement board and there is a big enough gap between the tub and the wall that when installing tile, the tile still would not be even with the tub flange let alone go over the flange? After installing the cement board, there is still about a .5 inch gap from the wall to the tub. I assume you can install tile and then caulk along the small gap from the tub flange to the tile. But let me know your thoughts.
Dude, I don't think you understand anything about the job you are doing. From what you are saying (unless you aren't explaining it very well) you are messing up from the get go. The tub flange should be right up tight against the studs and attached snugly, but not tight, if there are pre drilled holes in the flange. Flat head screws (drywall screws) work best. It only needs attached to a couple of studs, not every one. If there are no holes pre drilled in the flange, don't worry about attaching it. If there is some reason that the tub flange can't go right up tight to the studs, fur the studs out. Do this all the way from the top of the studs to the bottom and make sure they are plumb. Now the cement backer board DOES NOT get cut 1/4 above the flange. The backer board should overlap the flange and be 1/4 above the top surface of the tub. To achieve this, you simply cut some shims out of 1/4 plywood and lay them flat on the top edge of the tub, then place the backer board on top of that. Start your backer board from the bottom (top edge of tub). Then after all backer board is up smooth out joints with mastic or equivalent and caulk the gap between the bottom edge of the backer board and the top of the tub with good silicone caulk. Make sure the caulk is in the gap and not gobbing out onto the tub surface or the backer board surface. Now you are ready for tile.
Q: What do I do? Is it harmful?
Take it to a emergency hospital. Yes, rubber cement being swallowed would be harmful to both humans or other mammals. I suggest you first call a vet to make sure, and then do as they instruct, even if it would be just as the following said take it to the emergency hospital. I suggest calling the vet first, just in case.
Q: why has the price of portland cement increased from 2007 to now?
Maybe its getting scarce im just guessing here...

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords