• Ordinary Portland Cement 42.5 System 1
Ordinary Portland Cement 42.5

Ordinary Portland Cement 42.5

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
5000 Metric Tons m.t.
Supply Capability:
50000 Metric Tons per Month m.t./month

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1.steady and high quality,abrasion resistance

2.low fluctuate,good strength grade.

3.experienced manufacturer

 

 

Portland Cement:

 

1. Standard: national standards (GB175-2007)

 

2. Our product range: P.C32.5/32.5R,  P.O42.5/42.5R,52.5 ordinary portland cement

 

 

Packing:

 

1. 2MT jumbo bag

 

2. 50kg per bag then 40 bags into a 2MT sling bag

 

3. 50kg bag

 

 

The typical performance during using:

 

1. Steady and high quality, low fluctuate, and rich in strength grade.

 

2. Good workability and adaptability with additives.

 

3. Long term steady in color, wide used in the construction of modest color building.

 

4. Low bleeding, be applicable to produce concrete.

 

5. Freeze-proof, abrasion resistance.

 

6. Steady solidity ratio, the volumetric shrinkage basically reach to balance at one-year age, up to the high standard of international and domestic.

 

7. Meanwhile, its low slump loss meets the need of the long distance delivery of concrete-mixer.

 

 

Attention:

 

1. Pay attention to store, and avoid moisture.

 

2. Cannot mix different type cement together.

 

3. To select certain type and grade cement reasonablly.

 

4. Stick to pre-testing of concrete.

 

5. To carry out specility testing, work out the best mix ratio.

 

Q: The cement sealant I will be using is a LastiSeal brand. It is waterproof, non-toxic, and eco friendly. There is a15 year warranty on it, They say it can be used with koi ponds. So I think it will work for my newly laid cement pond wall. Just one thing. I have to wait 4 weeks for new cement to cure before applying the sealer to the cement. As long as the water is not touching the wall, can I keep water in the pond during these 4 weeks if need be?
Cement pond is what the Beverly Hillbillies called their swimming pool. :) Concrete/mortar cures in the air or underwater so it wouldn't matter if water was in the pond or if it touched the wall. However, the coating you want to use may require it to be dry. Also, the strength of the concrete is related to how well it is cured, so don't load it up w/water too soon.
Q: The house was built in 1925 without foundation tile, over the years whatever was painted over the brick interior walls has bubbled because of the moisture that would have been diverted by an appropriate ditch around the foundation, or tiles to drain it, etc. Several of these bubbles are basketball in size, and there are cracks in many areas of the stucco-like stuff that chips off in large pieces. I want to patch it up, and repaint, what is that stuff called? It looks like cement when chipped off, is it joint compound? How should I go about this? Moisture problems have been aleviated, now I just need to fix the cosmetics.
When you've got any moisture you desire a moisture sealer. If not that's even higher, makes it lot easier. Prime with zinnser primer tinted virtually the color of your paint. Then comply with with a LATEX PAINT making use of a thick nap curler. If you wish to make it ornamental, buy a sponge curler and use a second colour and position over most effective the skin of the block. It appears rather first-class and dresses it up alot. Good success!! You should utilize a latex paint. I painted block wall in basement that was once getting some moisture, and did use zinnser primer adopted with the aid of latex about 10 years ago and it looks as good in these days as the day I painted it!! So i do know for fact it can be performed.
Q: How long does it take cement to dry?
First of all it is concrete not cement and second of all it doesn't dry, it cures. It is a chemical reaction, it does not just simply dry out like mud brick. Given that, there are too many variables to take into account, thickness, environmental conditions, the exact formula of the concrete mix, etc.
Q: Hello.Can you tell me how cement, concrete and glass is made? And if possible, adding a bit of history into it?
the generic term cement simply means binder or glue; hydraulic cements are those which bind and harden in the presence of water. Early construction cements were usually clays mixed with an aerated volcanic rock called pumice; later mixtures included chalk (a high grade limestone composed of coccolithic (spherical stones) carbonate structures. What we commonly call cement and mostly use in construction and landscaping today is a type of cement called Portland cement, which was accredited to Joseph Aspdin in 1824; a mixture of ground (often low grade, or impure) limestone and clays containing aluminium sulfates. Gypsum (hydrous calcium sulfate) may be added to the mixture if more sulfates are needed. Concrete is an artificial conglomerate (in geology, a conglomerate is a rock made up of often metal-rich stones set in a matrix of sand and fine clays) where the binding matrix is composed of (usually) Portland cement and clean sand, and stones (commonly called gravel or road metal); without the stones, the mixture can be a mortar (used to bed and bind bricks or blocks) or a render (a thick paste used to dress bricks and blocks). Glass is commonly composed of melted quartz sand (silica); limestone is added to the silica to prevent recrystallisation when it cools.
Q: Im wanting to make a topairy that needs to be secure.
If by 'cement' you mean mortar mix (sand and cement) or concrete (sand, small gravel, and cement) then yes it should. Just cement, I believe, will be too soft and shrink away and the wet cement will swell the wood unless it is varnished or shellacked. It would be a good idea to drill a couple of holes and put large nails crosswise through the dowel or add a cross piece screwed in place to anchor the dowel - which tend to be smooth - in the concrete. If the result is to be put outside in all kinds of weather, then providing a drain so water does not collect and damage the wood would be a good idea.
Q: over the years the cement floor has settled and broken at the opening of the overhead door. can someone tell me the right way to do the repairs, or send me to a site that i could get some directions. one of my main concerns is the side jams of the doorway. can you fill the level of cement above the boards? Thanks for your help.
I would start with preventing the floor from further settelment. once your base is secure you can work on the crack that is there. Hard to advise on how to prevent without knowing more info. Depending on how large the crack is, you want to fill it and seal it. Larger cracks can be filled with a foam backer rod material (up to half inch depending on the backer rod you buy) and there are many types of crack fillers. before using a crack filler, make sure you get any loose debris out as that will hinder bonding. This type of job is all about prep work and prevention. quick solutions will only result in further cracking in the future.
Q: im looking to get true blue Jordan cements but i want to know were to get them, and if there is a difference? thanks to everyone! :)
The only Jordans that have cement are the III's and the IV's (3's and 4's), and only the 3's have a True Blue colorway, so yes, they should be the same. Typically you can find a pair on eBay. I would also suggest staying away from other websites that sell Jordans, as most are typically fake.
Q: could you please tell me a precise price for a square meter of cement.
do you mean a cubic meter?
Q: homework
Cement is a composite mixture of limestone, gypsum and clay materials.. the most common is Portland Cement. Mixed with water, sand you get concrete which is the primary ingredient for the construction of roads, bridges and buildings.. For massive projects, concrete binds together with steel to create a system of compression forces which counteracts with the tensile forces of the steel to give the structural strength needed for construction. Concrete can also be used as a means of screeding whereby you apply a layer on an unever surface prior to any laying of decorative tiles or marble flooring.. Applies the same for bathrooms etc.
Q: I've tried hosing it down, sweeping etc. Nothing seems to work. Can anyone recommend a solution for my problem?
Cement residue i presume what you really mean is the dusty stuff that keeps coming off of cement as it wears away for ever and ever. First if it's uneven lumps or spills and spots you have to pomice ( wear down the rough spot with pomice the cement with pomicingstone which usually has a wood handle and it is harder than cement especially poorly cheaply made cement used by builders andcontractors for extra profit. after dong that you go buy linceed oil and seal the floor with several coats lasts almost forever indoor. Second alternative is buy (very costly) slate and cement sealer. in 1974 it cost me $20. a gallon it took about 3 gallons to do 1100 sq. foot. basement. many builders mix too much sand and not enbough cement to make Concrete
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1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Rizhao, Shandong, China (Mainland)
Year Established 2004
Annual Output Value US$5 Million - US$10 Million
Main Markets North America; South America; Southeast Asia; Africa; Mid East
Company Certifications Certificate of Quality; certificate for products exemption from quality surveillance inspecction; ISO9001 Certificate

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3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port Rizhao port
Export Percentage 91% - 100%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 3-5 People
Language Spoken: English, Chinese, French, Russian
b) Factory Information
Factory Size: 3,000-5,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines 3
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered Design Service Offered Buyer Label Offered
Product Price Range Average

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