Glazed Porcelain Tile Petra Series R61103

Glazed Porcelain Tile Petra Series R61103

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1267.2

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Glazed Porcelain Tile Petra Series R61103 is one of the most popular series of Glazed Porcelain Tile, which is one most popular serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas. Cement tile with decor finish which has given this series more choices.

Product Features

Glazed Porcelain Tiale

Only Grade AAA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 1-3%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Glazed Porcelain Tile Petra Series R61103

FAQ

1. For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

Q: What is transparent tiles: Fashionable, bright ice crack, high density, high hardness, good flatness, covered with the line after the neat, smooth and beautiful, non-general market compared to ordinary tiles.

Q: I have a black and white tile floor, and most everything that I have tried has left it very slick even after it is dried. Does anyone know of any homemade product to clean it? I am also willing to try comercial products also. I am tired of my family slipping.: hot water with vinegar

Q: Hey there. We are in the process of adding a half bath to our home. We purchased tiles months ago at a tent sale at out local tile store. We have some wall corners that might require bullnosed corner tiles but this wasnt taken into account when we purchased the tiles and now we cannot find matching bullnose tiles anywhere.......Is there any was to finish the wall edges without using bullnosed tiles and have it still look good???: Bnose tile is a new simplified way of doing tile and was to remove one of the grout edges. So all you have to do is grout the top like they did in the old days a few years ago. You could also use a thin lat of flat trim, a brass or stainless steel edging, or caulking that matches the wall or tile. I think the simple grout is your best bet. PS. Where corners meet If the tile is same color through they can show. If it is glazed colored or just a thin color on top then no. In that case cut the tile back so that they do not quite reach the corner. Then there will be a slight inverted corner where you will grout or caulk. In neither case would you want to miter the corner. It will be too sharp and thin corners would be weak enough to chip.

Q: Currently the stairs are carpeted. I have heard that if this is not done properly the tiles will crack. How do I ensure that the stairs are level and stable enough for the tiles? Any guidance is greatly appreciated.: It can be done, but the trick is in using the proper setting materials and grout. For starters, you'll need an epoxy thinset. These are industrial grade-- not available at the local home center-- and can be difficult to trowel due to the fact that they set up quickly. You'll want to mix it in small doses so that you can set tile before it cures. Wear rubber gloves, too, as you'll hate to find out the hard way that you have an epoxy allergy. Plus, the stuff's super tacky and gets on but not off just about everything you'll touch. I'd recommend porcelain tiles, as they are stronger than most. But here's the rub: you want an abraded surface porcelain or you and yours will be slipping down to the next level of your home. Then, you definitely want to use at minimum an epoxy grout between your tiles. Allows for flexibility. Better yet, you should use a 100% silicone as grout. You can get these in colors-- they're not all clear. You'll be using that same silicone to create soft joints on the coves (where the riser meets the stairs-- vertical to horizontal), as well. The vertical risers move independently from the horizontal stairs, and a rigid, hard joint here will definitely cause cracking. The best thing you can do is stop by a local tile distributor. They sell primarily to the commercial trade, but most have showrooms and are open to the public. Ask the manager there about your application. If he can't help, he can call one of his suppliers (a guy like me) who can walk you through it.

Q: Do I need to remove the existing 1 ceramic tiles in the shower stall, or can I apply the new 8 ceramic tiles right on top of the old ones? The sides are drywall, but the floor of the stall has 1 tiles that look like a pain to remove.: First off, I would not put 8 ceramic tiles in a shower. (Unless you have a huge shower that can support 15 people or more, and even then, they use the 'one inch' squares... 8' tiles are not meant for showers. They are meant for applications of flooring, outside the tub or shower. (You cant slope them as needed for a shower or hot tub as the one inch ones). Also, I would never lay them down, for fear of cracking them! The small tiles can expand and contract, with the different heat of the water, while the large ones will not. They will be laying on a base of something that 'IS still expanding and contracting, even if you could clean the tiles off, sufficiently enough, (with an acid product), to remove all the soap and grime and grease and all the matter so that the mastic will stick to the individual tiles... Now, you could take the one inch tiles off, (they are laid down in rows, of either 6X6 or 12X12 inch sections, I forget which it is now...sorry). Get a cold chisel and some goggles and knee pads and go to work, chipping the tiles up... (once you get a few, they wll start to pop up real quick like). Then, try and bust out as much grout as you can, and even use a grinder if you need to, to get the rest, but, have your exhaust fan going in the bath room, and a fan blowing to give fresh air...possibly a window open and a fan blowing out, to carry the dust out...also a good respirator, so you dont get the dust into your lungs! I wish you well Jesse

Q: My bf and I are removing the tiles from the bathroom wall with a chisel and hammer; however, we live in an apartment building, so I was wondering if there‘s an easier way to remove the tiles by softening the grout around them.: No there isn't any way to soften the grout or thin-set. You just have to pry/bang them or smash the hole wall with a sledge hammer.

Q: Dongpeng tiles I know more famous, but Dongpeng sanitary ware is their home Well? Dongpeng still have to sell sanitary ware?: There is ah! Are ceramic products! Foreign Wrigley, Kohler (USA), Lejia (Spain), TOTO (Japanese devils, not recommended to buy).

Q: I need to measure my tiles to get them cleaned but they all need the size in squares how do i do that, thanks in advance: In constrution terms a square is 100 sq ft.But that's pretty much only used for roofs.I think what you need here is a measurement in square feet To get it just measure the floor both ways and multiply. I.e. If the room measures 10 Ft X 10 ft then you have 100 sq ft

Q: I have granite tiles I want to put on a kitchen countertop. I removed the laminate and underneath is about 1.5 thick of a particle board of some sort. The countertop is very sturdy and the board is in great shape. I know if this stuff get wet, you can have problems, but otherwise it seems to be very sturdy stuff. I know most people will say you need to put down a sheet of hardibacker, but I don‘t see the point. With a top grade thinset, these tiles will definitely adhere to the board extremely well. Grount lines will be extremely tiny and I‘m going to double seal everything with a really good sealer. I don‘t see anyway water is going to penetrate these tiles and thinset and get to the particle board. That‘s really the whole issue, right?: You can do that no problem. Particle board is a very stable material as long as it doesn't get and stay wet a long time. Make sure you seal the edges of the particle board (if you're not covering them with tile). That's the area that's most vulnerable to water damage because of water that drips off of the top of the counter. But I have to say....tile as a counter is outdated and tacky. Get with the program. Use solid granite or solid surfacing. Tiled counter tops are embarrassing.

Q: My marble counter top is made of tiles. We bought the house and the previous owners installed them. my problem is that the grouts between are chipped and stained. how can i repair them to look new again?: you need to remove the old grout on the surface and re apply new grout to fix the problem, you can even get grout that is tinted to the colour that you like .

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