• galvanized  welded wire mesh System 1
  • galvanized  welded wire mesh System 2
  • galvanized  welded wire mesh System 3
galvanized  welded wire mesh

galvanized welded wire mesh

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Specifications

welded wire mesh
wire diameter:2.70mm-0.56mm.
strong welding point.
solid construction.
easy assemble.

 

Welded Wire Mesh


Welded wire mesh, or welded wire fabric is a steel reinforcement material in concrete. The mesh is used for    replacing the traditional "cut & bend" and placing of steel thermo-mechanical treated bars. The mesh is an electric fusion welded prefabricated reinforcement consisting of        a   series of parallel longitudinal wires with accurate spacing welded to cross wires at the required spacing.    Machines are used to produce the mesh with precise dimensional control. The product results in considerable  savings in time, labour and money.

             

Use: The welded wire mesh is a metal screen that is made up of low carbon steel wire or stainless steel wire.  It  is available in various sizes and shapes. It is widely used in agricultural, industrial, transportation,   horticultural and food procuring sectors. It is also used in mines, gardening, machine protection and other  decorations.

Type: Galvanized welded wire mesh, Stainless steel welded wire mesh, PVC coated welded wire mesh.


Galvanized Welded Wire Mesh

Material: The low carbon steel , elec-galvanized steel wire, hot-dip galvanized steel wire, pvc coated wire, stainless steel wire etc.

Surface treatment: Elec-galvanized, hot-dip galvanized, pvc coated, powder coating etc.

Feature: The structure of this kind of wire mesh is strong, lasting and rust-resistant.Galvanized welded wire mesh is galvanized after welding.

Application: They  are used in industry and agriculture building, transportation and mining for all such purposes as poultry houses, egg baskets, runway enclosures, draining rack, fruit drying screen, fence.


PVC Welded Wire Mesh

PVC coated welded mesh with plastic covering is constructed with galvanized iron wire of high quality. It has   PVC powder covering that is processed by an automatic machine. The smooth plastic coating on this corrosion protective wire is attached with a strong adhesive which make increases durability of the wire.

Material: Low carbon steel wire, stainless steel wire.

Characteristics:
   · Hot dipped galvanizing after weaving Weaving with hot dipped galvanized iron wire

   · Electric galvanizing after weaving Weaving with electric galvanized iron wire
   · PVC coated welded wire mesh

Usefulness: Used in industry, agriculture, building, transportation, mine, field, cultivation, enclosure fence,   decoration, machine protection, etc.

Color: Light green, rough blue, black, red, yellow etc.

Packing: Different coil diameters or coil weights are available for customers' choices.


Specification List of Welded Wire Mesh

Opening

Wire Diameter<BWG>

In inch

In metric unit(mm)

1/4" x 1/4"

6.4mm x 6.4mm

22,23,24

3/8" x 3/8"

10.6mm x 10.6mm

19,20,21,22

1/2" x 1/2"

12.7mm x 12.7mm

16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23

5/8" x 5/8"

16mm x 16mm

18,19,20,21,

3/4" x 3/4"

19.1mm x 19.1mm

16,17,18,19,20,21

3/4" x 3/4"

19mm x 19mm

16,17,18,19,20,21

1" x 1"

25.4mm x 25.4mm

15,16,17,18,19,20

1" x 1/2"

25.4mm x 12.7mm

16,17,18,19,20,21

1-1/2" x 1-1/2"

38mm x 38mm

14,15,16,17,18,19

1" x 2"

25.4mm x 50.8mm

14,15,16

2" x 2"

50.8mm x 50.8mm

12,13,14,15,16

2" x 3"

50mm x 75mm

14,13,16

3" x 3"

75mm x 75mm

12,13,14,15,16

2" x 4"

50mm x 100mm

13,14

4" x 4"

100mm x 100mm

13,14


Q: I'm trying to use a stereo wire instead of a mono wire for an output from a circuit I've built. The problem is, the gold wire has been cut too short, and I'd rather not strip it back any further since I don't have a lot of cord to work with. Since there are three wires (red, white, gold - ground) can I use either the red or the white as output, and the remaining color for ground, or do I have to use the gold cable for the ground and let the remaining wire dangle (taped)?Thanks
The gold wire is actually copper. It is braided and surrounds the red and white wires. It not only forms the common return for both the other wires, it is also a screen which eliminates unwanted pick up. The right channel signal appears between the red wire and the sceeen and the left channel signal appears between the white wire and the screen - which is usually grounded. If you use the red and white wires on their own you will probably get pick up on them. The screen really is necessary. If you have access to the screen at only one end (it sounds as if you might) then connecting the screen to whichever wire you choose to be grounded might be sufficient.
Q: Ceiling fan has a black wire, white wire, green wire and also a black and white wire.
The white wire from the fan gets connected to the white wire (neutral) in the ceiling box. The green wire is ground. It is connected to the fan mounting bar where the bare copper wire is connected. The remaining two wires are your hot wires. One goes to the fan and the other goes to the lights so you can run the lights on a dimmer circuit. I believe the black is for the fan and the black-white is for the lights. Your fan's instruction manual should identify these wires. IMPORTANT: Never run the fan motor on a standard dimmer. A dimmer is designed for use with resistive loads like incandescent, halogen, and (to some degree) LED lamps only. Running an inductive load like a fan motor will create noise spikes on your electrical circuit and possibly overheat the motor causing premature failure.
Q: when wiring subs to different ohm levels, does is matter what kind of speaker wire you use to connect to the + and - terminals? i mean like gauge wise of the speaker wire and such.
the larger the wire the better the current move through it, i likeusing at least a 10 gauge, im using 8 right now its also harder to get them caught some were and break them
Q: I'm trying to fix a light fixture for a friend. Her father-in-law gummed it up. At the fixture, there are 3 white wires soldered to a single wire. There are 3 black individual wires and one red wire. There are three switches that control the light.If I hook one of the black and the 3 white to the light, the light stays on constantly. If I hook either of the two other black individually, nothing comes on period.I'm pretty much at a loss. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
USA Sounds to me that what you have is 1 two conductor (black/white) cable as a power feed, 1 two conductor tap taking power somewhere else, and 1 three conductor (black, white, red) taking power to and back from a switch. All the whites get joined together, with a pigtail to the light. Make sure you have a tester. Find the black wire that is always energized, and mark it. Find the black and red that are in the same cable; mark them. I think what you have is they ran power to the light instead of the switch, then took the power down to the switch on the black conductor, and back from the switch to the light on the red conductor. Take the black that is always hot, and splice it to the other two blacks. Do not take it to the light. Hook the red to the light. If this does not work, reverse the red and black that go to the switch. This will take power to the switch on the red, and back from the switch on the black.
Q: I have a minivan with a flat 5 pin wiring connecter at back. We bought an old utility trailer with no wiring. It has the two rear lights, one on each side with 2 wires sticking out of each. We got the flat 5 pin trailer connector to connect to the van and bought a long piece of cable which has the white, brown, green and yellow wires in it. Where do I connect what? I have the wire that connects to the van with the four colours and 2 wires coming out of each light for the trailer.Thanks!
White = ground Brown = running lights Green = right turn Yellow = left turn The brown wire is common to each light.White to trailer frame.The right and left will go to the other wire at each light.Make sure the green and yellow or connected to the wire that makes the brightest light.
Q: Hi,I'm looking to change the outlets and the switch and light fixture in a bedroom of a home built in 1948. The outlets are original to the home I think. Will I have to fish ground wire throught to the panel box for my new receptacles? Or just install new 2 slot outlets?Why the different looking wires?Is the older wire copper with a silver colored coating to indicate being neutral or is this an old aluminum wire? The hot wire is red plastic coated and looks modern to me.
In '48 your house won't have a ground wire as you found out. If it is wired with BX cable ( metal clad) you can see in the basement or crawl space, the ground is actually taken to the outlet by the metallic casing. Then all you would have to do is get a bag of ground wires with screws already crimped on them at Home Depot called Greenies. You screw them into one of the holes inside the box and attach the other end to the ground screw on the switch or outlet. The red casing you are describing actually sounds like red electrical tape wrapped around deteriorating wire in the box as the other wire looks raggy. The wire you see that looks aluminum MAY be aluminum someone added in the '70's when al wire was used, but BOTH would be replaced and there would have been a ground wire. I don't know why it looks silver, but I have seen old wiring like that and it is usually copper. If you see the BX cable you are good adding the ground wire, if it is a silvery looking cloth casing, then install new NON-grounded receptacles.
Q: when checking white wire at the box it is cold when checking at the light switch it has power i am confused
The white (neutral) wire should bypass the switch. The black wire should run to and from the switch terminals, if it is wired correctly. This applies even if the light is wired hot (as they used to be back in the day). Sounds like someone has connected black to white somewhere. Is there correct current between the black white wires?
Q: I know that most wire is copper, however, I found this wire that is silver in color. So that got me to thinking, what other metals are used in wire, and, are they all non-magnetic?
Are you stupid? All metals conduct electricity. Only ferrous (Iron containing) metals are magnetic.
Q: Wiring together 200 + different colored LEDs. Voltage per LED ranges from 2.5 - 3.6. What is the best way to go about wiring them together and what type of power source should i use?
sequence isn't plausible through voltage drop throughout each and each and every LED. Parallel ought to require a dropping resistor for each LED because the slightest mismatch from one gadget will reason it to behaviour in yet otherwise for the others that's aggravated because the temperature contained in the junction rises. One answer is to force them from a present day source, yet you'll nonetheless desire some type of resistance for each LED, because the only with the the least present day turn on knee will hog the present from the others. there's no unmarried resistor soulution that ought to paintings.
Q: How can u do a wire transfer? Is there anything extra that is needed to do this? Are you able to make a wire transfer from your home computer?
A wire transfer is that exact same as sending cash. As soon as it is gone. It is gone. The bank can not protect you. I suggest using a credit card. If they will only accept wire transfer as payment I would be very thorough on my research into the company and know exactly who I was dealing with. I would pay the extra fees via pay-pal where you have some protection. If he is a fraud and you wire money, you are out the money unless you hire an attorney to help you get it back which will probably cost you more than the 8k. I'd buy local if you can in this instance.

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