• Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price System 1
  • Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price System 2
  • Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price System 3
Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price

Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price

Ref Price:
$450.00 - 550.00 / m.t. get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10 m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000 m.t./month

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1.Structure of Galvanized Iron Wire Description

Galvanized iron wire is made of choice mild steel, through wire drawing, wire galvanizing and other processes. It has the characteristics of thick zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc.It has two kinds, hot dipped and electro galvanized wire.  

Hot-dipped galvanized iron wire

Hot-dip galvanized iron wire is made with choice low carbon steel wire, through wire drawing, wire annealing,rust removing and acid washing, zinc plating and coiling. It’s mainly used in construction, handicrafts, woven wire mesh, express way fencing mesh, packaging of products and other daily uses. 

Size range: BWG 8-BWG 22

Zinc coat: 40-240g/m2

Tensile strength: 35-70kg/mm2

Elongation: 10%-25%

Packing: 0.1-1000kgs/coil, coil with plastic inside and hessian cloth outside or weave bag outside

 

Electro galvanized iron wire

Electro galvanized iron wire is made with choice mild steel, through wire drawing, wire galvanizing and other processes. Electro galvanized iron wire has the characteristics of zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc. It’s mainly used in construction, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving.

Size range: BWG 8-BWG 22, we can also offer BWG 8-BWG 28 

Zinc coat: 8-18g/m2

Tensile strength: 35-70kg/mm2

Elongation: 10%-25%

Packing: 0.1-1000kgs/coil, coil with plastic film inside and hessian cloth outside or weave bag outside

 

2.Main Features of Galvanized Iron Wire:

• Durable

• Widely use

• Convenient

• Nice vision

• Practical

 

3. Galvanized Iron Wire Images

Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price

Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price

Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price

 

4.Galvanized Iron Wire Specification

Galvanized Iron Wire Wire for Buliding Material with Nice Price

 

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

 

①What is your products advantage?

We have 20 years' experience for export/produce Galvanized Iron Wire. About 100 persons works in this line, 10 production lines can produce about 200 sets every day. We have our own quality inspection departments to strictly according to customer requirements to complete production. Which have exported to lots of countries before such as: Australia, Italy, Mexico, Gaborone, Kenya..... And so on. 

 

What is Production process of the Galvanized Iron Wire:

Low carbon steel rod—Drawing modeling—Pickling degusting—Heat dipping—Chilling—Finished products.

 

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of Galvanized Iron Wire within three working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pacific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be served.

 

Q: What are the basic characteristics of wire resistance strain gages?
The terminal voltage and the current have the definite function relation, which shows the two terminal device which can transform the electric energy into other forms. It is represented by the letter R, and the unit is ohm. Actual devices, such as light bulbs, electric heating wires, resistors, etc., can be represented as resistor elements.
Q: I bought Nexxtech Evolution series 16 gauge 30' wire to be able to bring my rear speakers farther back in my room. I have an Altec Lansing 5.1 speaker system with remote and all the speakers connect to the back of the sub. (front are red wire, center is blue, and rear is gray) they are all have the black wire and the colored wire. The wire I just bought are brown, and have a stripe of gray on the second wire (polarized wires) but the ones I bought are much thicker wire... will it still work to just strip/twist/tape the wires to extend the rear speakers? or did I buy the wrong wire? and also, how do I know which to twist with which? (the ones I bought aren't really that clear on which is which... which end is positive and which is negative).Answer quickly please!
incredibly, it could be greater advantageous to purchase the two yet another sub and an amp. the two-channel bridged at 4 ohms will purely output 380 watts RMS which would be divided between the two subs (a hundred ninety watts each). it incredibly is too low and you will no longer get lots thump. A 600-800 watt RMS monoblock could grant severe ability to 2 12 Kickers. an fantastic Kicker amp is the Kicker 08ZX750.a million which outputs 750 X a million RMS into 2 ohms. For driving in basic terms the sub you have, i could propose the Kicker Kicker 08ZX300.a million which outputs 3 hundred watts RMS into 2 ohms. And it incredibly is $40 off precise now at Crutchfield. the final answer utilising what you have is to circulate right into a mono sign to the amp. Use in basic terms one channel of the preamp outs and chop up it into the two amp inputs. Then twine each of your 4 ohm voice coils to a separate channel. the two coils popular will then be getting 250 watts RMS, nevertheless low yet greater advantageous than a hundred ninety.
Q: how to connect the wiring from car stereo to amplifier
The consistent potential twine is nearly a small direct line from the battery, as in it is many times warm, yet once you have been placing it to the useful of the upload-ons it could have in basic terms been becoming a circuit. it is to no longer say which you probably did no longer short out the wiring some incorrect way and that i'm unsure what the twine grew to become into which you genuinely touched with the consistent, yet it is many times run from the useful part as a relentless, till you have a grounded useful electric equipment on your motor vehicle. you does not in an '89 Escort till you probably did that your self. Wiring could be with any luck fused, even regardless of the indisputable fact that i do no longer understand how some distance back the fusing may well be, no count number if or no longer this is each and every of the previously to the fuse field or a separate fuse closer to the wiring.
Q: I am planning to wire my single sub 400rms svc to my amplifier 400rms x 1 @4 ohms. My car model is 94 mitsubishi lancer. how many AWG ( gauge) should I use? Like for Power, ground, speaker wire. I just want to have the full potential of my sub and ampli.For my 2nd question: if I decided to put a 2nd sub wired it on the same amp making it 800rms x1 @ 2 ohms. (my amplifier is a class d mono 1600 watt peak by the way) should I need to use a capacitor?Thank you
Well a capacitor is always desired for me...even if not to help the amp...it also helps your alternator/battery. Most class D amps can handle 2 ohm mono...actually most of them can handle 1 ohm mono...as for wiring. It depends on how many amps your amplifier's fuses are. If your amp is drawing more than 50 amps I'd say 6G or thicker. less than 50amps then 8G is plenty. The wattage the amp says it puts out is misleading...the fuses on the side of the amp tell the whole story. 12g speaker wire should take care of you as well. If the amp were on the larger side (requiring 6G wire or thicker) then 8G speaker wire would be a good idea.
Q: Hello,I got a ventilation fan for the bathroom. The fan has 2 wires and there are 2 wires sticking out of the wall.How do I know which wire connects to which wire?What would happen if I connect the wrong wires?
first find out if there is any power on the wires sticking out of the wall they are probly controled by a switch somewhere in the room . there sould be a white and black wire on the fan and sticking out of wall connect color to color . if yoiy connect it wrong it will eather blow a fuse or not run at all
Q: What's the difference between stainless steel wire and steel wire?
The stainless steel spring wire is usually hard, and it is cold drawn with larger wire diameter difference. Stainless steel bright wire is usually medium hard, it is normal cold drawing and cold drawing. Light drawing of stainless steel is usually in soft medium, which is cold drawing with smaller line diameter difference. The stainless steel wire is usually soft, which is annealed by hydrogen pipe after drawing, and the product has a roof shape after annealing.
Q: electrical wire prices
everything does to some degree cos of the oil used in production packaging and transportation, and because wire is used in massive quantities in industry the companys selling it would lose out if they didnt increase there costs immediatly.
Q: Question:What is the point of new wires? Everyone keeps saying thicker wire. What does that thicker wire do? Does it carry a different force? I thought the ligature bands is what gives the wire the force? I'm kind of confused!Also, do you get a thicker wire everytime? Is this thicker wire visibly thicker and noticable?Does the thicker wire cause a drastic diff in pain?Thank you for your help and answering my question about my previous question.
The wires are memory wires. So over time they move your teeth back to the original U shape the wire was in. The thicker wire corrects your teeth more. You won't always get a thicker wire, but you won't be able to tell just by looking. A thicker wire will hurt more for about three days but then you will get used to it, just like the previous wire they put in.
Q: where also is fourth wire hooked in?
If you really have a 3-pole 4 wire system, the 4th wire is the neutral. (The other 3 wires are the phase wires.) It is much more common to have 2 phases with a neutral and a ground for a house. In either case the 4th wire connects to the neutral bus. How do you know which wire is the 4th wire? Test the voltages between the wires. You will have a bolt of lightning, if you connect the wrong wire to the neutral. Luckily, touching the incoming wires to your house is very rarely lethal.
Q: I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.
Garage door springs are part of the garage door itself, not the garage door opener. That said, it must also be added that the springs make it much easier to raise and lower the door. They generally last a long time, and they have only one function. But over time, all that lifting, through all those weather changes, tend to weaken the metal and lead to a break. In my case, the springs appeared to be original to the house, which means they've been at work since 1956. Once you understand that long record of service, it becomes a little hard to complain when they finally break down. And break down they did. It was a Sunday afternoon, and we were sitting around the quiet house reading. Suddenly, we heard a large noise that sounded like a very heavy object had fallen on the roof, or maybe a car had driven into the side of the house. I quickly started hunting around for the cause, and couldn't find a thing. So much noise, and no noticeable cause? Didn't make sense . . . until I went out later and tried to open the garage door. Even then, it took me some time to figure out that the spring had split. Once I discovered it (see photo), I knew I'd found the source of the noise. With a broken spring and a solid wood door to a two-car garage, you really can forget about opening the door. I couldn't lift it more than an inch.

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