• Roofing Insulation Foam Board - Rock Wool Board Plain for Thermal Insulation System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Foam Board - Rock Wool Board Plain for Thermal Insulation System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Foam Board - Rock Wool Board Plain for Thermal Insulation System 3
  • Roofing Insulation Foam Board - Rock Wool Board Plain for Thermal Insulation System 4
Roofing Insulation Foam Board - Rock Wool Board Plain for Thermal Insulation

Roofing Insulation Foam Board - Rock Wool Board Plain for Thermal Insulation

Ref Price:
$5.00 - 10.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000000000 m²/month

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Rock Wool Board Plain For Thermal Insulation

1.Structure of Rock Wool Board Plain For Thermal Insulation

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

 

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Rock Wool Board Plain For Thermal Insulation

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Rock Wool Board Plain For Thermal Insulation Images

 

 

4. Rock Wool Board Plain For Thermal Insulation Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

 

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22

3/4’’ 27

1’’ 34

1-1/4’’ 43

1-1/2’’ 48

2’’ 60

2-1/2’’ 76

3’’ 89

3-1/2’’ 108

4’’ 114

5’’ 140

6’’ 169

8’’ 219

10’’ 273

12’’ 325

14’’ 356

15’’ 381

16’’ 406

18’’ 456

19’’ 483

20’’ 508

22’’ 558

24’’ 610

 5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

①     What’s the mainly material for rock wool

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

What’s the mainly type for rock wool

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

 

 

Q: the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
POROSIL A specially graded Light Weight Insulating Aggregate for loose fill insulation in Cavity Wall and over Suspended/False Ceiling. # 100% inorganic and Asbestos free. It will not rot, emit odours or attract vermin. # Light in weight and easy to handle. # POROSIL is the only insulating material which is Non-toxic and non-flammable at the time of fire. # Reduces unwanted heat flow making living comfortable. # Reduces the Air Conditioning Power Consumption upto 20 to 30%
Q: should thermal insulation ever be applied directly to the underside of a roof top?
On pole barns with metal roofing it is common to have a thin layer of insulation directly under the roofing. This prevents condensation from forming.
Q: weather stripping/ foam strip?
I'm assuming your talking about a ridge cap normally you would seal it in with tar or polyurethane caulk and put your shingles over it
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
The foamboard can be installed in between the beams Do NOT use adhesives to fasten the foamboards or drywall. The adhesive will deteriorate over time and the foamboards and drywall will fall down. Many municipalities do not allow materials to be attached only by adhesives especially on walls and ceilings. Nail or screw 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 boards under the foamboard from beam to beam spaced about 16 inches apart. Screw drywall for fireproofing to the 1 X 3s or 4s and this will also hide the foam boards. Tape and seal the joints
Q: What is the aim of insulation in walls and in roofs?
Insulation is to not let air from the outside seep in and does not let air on the inside seep out. The purpose is so in the winter, cold air does not get into the house through cracks (saves gas/oil/electricity need to heat the home) and in the summer, it does not let cold air from your AC escape unexpectedly which saves electricity to cool your home. Insulation is a great way to save money, but if you have your windows open, then it does nothing. XD Hope that helped.
Q: I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
The roof (assume pitched) doesn't need insulating it's above the attic above the ceilings of all the rooms that need 12 inch of mineral wool insulation to stop heat loss (you may have less thickness not all insulation is to the correct standards) Also if as I suspect the walls of your home are timber with shiplap (and not solid brick / cavity walls) they also require insulation top up. From a google search there is state wide Government grants for insulating homes, could be available in your state? using blown insulation to walls/ceilings. If you decide to install it yourself the payback is excellent -in 12 months depending on fuel cost and what existing insulation (from your description minimal) The landlord could be entitled to increase your lease costs if he takes the work on as he has greatly improved the thermal insulation which will reduce your heating costs and make his property more valuable to lease.
Q: we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,
i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.
Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
i guess u mean attic insulation, it all depends on the type of ins u have, but why remove it ?, just add more on top..i'm not sure where ur located, the amt of ins depends on ur climate...here in Ontario, Canada, the code req's R40 for attics...but R32 is just as efficient
Q: We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.

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