• R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar System 1
  • R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar System 2
  • R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar System 3
R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar

R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
234 g/m
Supply Capability:
234 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q:attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12"x12".Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.
is your HVAV unit in the attic?Is the moisture coming from it? Also-ridge vents help allow proper ventilation.
Q:My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.
Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Q:If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
Rabbits do not choose supplemental warmth whilst in a development. Rabbits are lots greater beneficial appropriate to handle chilly climate than they are to handle warm climate. warmth lamps won't purely reason a hearth probability, they'll purely approximately insure that the animals gets pneumonia. make beneficial they have extremely some nutrition, a BOWL of heat water three times an afternoon (do not use water bottles in the iciness), and field complete of hay/straw to burrow into, and that they would be high quality.
Q:Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
should work, heat pumps pull the heat out of the air,
Q:I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.
The talcum powder and clothing can only do so much. They can be effective, but can still lead to some itching once you are done working on the job. A cold (then warm) shower should be sufficient for clearing out the insulation and taking care of the itching.
Q:We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?
like they said ventilation is the answer... you allready have a radiant barrier ( metal roof ), now get the heat out. a rigge vent would be best with plent of open soffit all the way around the perimeter. if you're in a dry climate, a humidifier will work as well as an a/c, but much cheaper! give measurments in feet & inches... what do you thing, some one from france is going to help you?
Q:roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
Sorry; I don't know of any roofer that would take responsabilty after eight years. Unless your insurance might be an option. Check with them and decide if your deductable is more than the repair if you would be better off doing it yourself. I would also be concerned about underlying materials, sheet rock, lumber, MOLD. You need someone to check thoroughly for mold being as it has been so long. GOod luck; Flip;
Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
Yes, you can ask, but don't expect him to seriously entertain the idea of actually doing it. You rented the house at it was. The landlord has no obligation to spend money on improving it so you can save money. That amount of heat loss in that time is insignificant. If I turned my heat off for four hours in the just-around-freezing weather we are having right now, I would expect my house to cool off a lot more than 4 degrees. My furnace is coming on for a few minutes at least every 15 minutes to keep the place at just over 60F. I have the lowest heating bill of anyone I know.
Q:do i have to have insulation in my roof?
I think about 80% of heat loss during cold weather is through the ceiling and into the attic in an uninsulated home. So if you mean should your attic be insulated...yes. It will pay for itself in fuel savings and make your home more comfortable.

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