• Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation System 1
  • Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation System 2
  • Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation System 3
  • Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation System 4
Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation

Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
234 g/m
Supply Capability:
234 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q: do i have to have insulation in my roof?
Maybe, you do need insulation above the ceilings (it will be between the ceiling joists/framing that also serve as the attic floor joists/framing. 1. If you have a finished attic (for a living area of some sort) then yes there should be insulation with a vapor barrier under the roof &/or between the roof framing. This will help keep heating/cooling costs down and prevent condensation from forming under the roof and doing lots of water damage over time. 2. If the attic is partially finished but used for storage only & there is attic ventilation in use also then no you don't need insulation under your roof. 3. If your attic is partially finished or completely finished but used for storage only and there is no attic ventilation then yes you should have insulation with a vapor barrier also under the roof. You don't have to have it since it's used for storage only but if you start to see condensation &/or wet areas on the wood or framing under the roof then you will need insulation with a vapor barrier installed. If for any reason insulation is installed under the roof it must be installed correctly and have in place a proper method of ventilation directly under the roof itself. All roof systems in the attic areas must have proper ventilation to prevent any possibility of condensation forming under &/or in the wood roof framing & sheathing materials that will rot the wood over time.
Q: My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
Loose fill cellulose can be blown into your attic. I don't know if I understand the protrusions that you are describing but if you can freely blow the cellulose fiber into this space it should serve as a good insulation. You don't want to poke it in with a stick because you don't want to compress it. If you cannot blow this product directly into the space, you would be better off stuffing it lightly with fiberglass batting. Just don't cram it too tightly. It needs to be loose to be most effective.
Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
The mold problem probably has nothing to do with the insulation. Main causes would be bathrooms with no exhaust fans or windows that open. Others could be leaks around windows that allow water to enter into the walls. Bad plumbing is also a possibility. Check for leaks. If there are dryers (clothes type), are the vents discharged to the outside? All these could contribute to the problem.
Q: should thermal insulation ever be applied directly to the underside of a roof top?
yes its done all the time on metal buildings. works well but expensive.
Q: I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3" and 4" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?
I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
The foamboard can be installed in between the beams Do NOT use adhesives to fasten the foamboards or drywall. The adhesive will deteriorate over time and the foamboards and drywall will fall down. Many municipalities do not allow materials to be attached only by adhesives especially on walls and ceilings. Nail or screw 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 boards under the foamboard from beam to beam spaced about 16 inches apart. Screw drywall for fireproofing to the 1 X 3s or 4s and this will also hide the foam boards. Tape and seal the joints
Q: i like to put a layer of sand in roofing instead of insulation. it's fireproof and insulates better. plus it's free. how much weight can ceiling board handle? I find about 15 inches poured into the roof works fine so far. Saves me about $1600 each house built
first sand is very heavy and will probably exceed the loading on the roof and walls the extra reinforcing you would need to make the house SAFE would far outway any savings
Q: House is a bi-level. Recently added storm windows to deck off dining room. Having a new rubber roof installed would like to know if we can insulate ceiling to make the room warmer. What product do you suggest we use. we are getting conflicting answers, some say you can insulate others say the ceiling needs to breath having a rubber roof install. Please advise.
Your other answerer is correct. The little plastic pieces that he speaks of are sometimes called baffles. They look like they are corregated or wavy like the inside of cardboard. These are essential to letting air flow in the attic space. Another item that you must have are vents on the soffits or overhangs on either side of the roof. Air has to get in there somehow. There are alot of homes that are not ventilated properly and the roof decking or plywood gets discolored and rots from the inside out. Sometimes this can happen in as little as 5 years, depending on your geographical location. Rubber roofing is usually put on a flat roof system. If you do not have access to inside the framing, you cannot insulate or it will be very difficult to get insulation in there properly. There are so many variables with different houses and locations. You may want to ask an insulation expert from the phone book or even a home inspector. Good luck.
Q: I have read in some articles about roofing that it is recommended to use attic roof insulation in ones roofing. Is this true?
It's advisable to insulate the roof area attic to help keep the rooms below warm as heat escapes through the ceilings, but not so much if there is insulation in the attic! It's personal preference. Cheers
Q: What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?
anybody can do either.nothing to it.i prefer blown, because it isnt near as itchy.you can rent the blower from home stores, but it takes 2 people to run.

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