NiCr- CuNi(Constantan) thermocouple (Type E) A quality
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m/month
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NiCr-NiSi (Type K) thermocouple finds the widest use in all basemetal thermocouple, at temperature above 500℃。The main chemical composition of positive leg NiCr (KP) are Ni≈90% and Cr≈10%; negative leg NiSi (KN) are Ni≈97% and Cr≈3%. The operating temperature range is -200~1300℃(for short term) and 0~1100℃( for long term)。
Type K thermocouple has strong resistance to oxidation than other base metal thermocouples. It has high EMF against Platinum 67, excellent temperature accuracy, sensitivity and stability, with a low cost. It is recommended for oxidizing or inert atmospheres, but cannot be used directly in the following cases:
(1) Alternatively oxidizing and reducing atmosphere,
(2) Atmosphere with sulphur gases
(3) Long time in vacuum
(4) Low oxidizing atmosphere such as hydrogen and carbon monoxide atmosphere
- Q:Adventure Island game in the Qi Nepal's Lloyd research mission where to play the wire bag where to play?
- Red and black power, green and blue signal. General four lines.
- Q:I know it sounds weird but I like to do little projects here and there with any loose electrical stuff I have. you know. takes apart electronics I don't use and try to make a fun little project out of making something new and useful. And it happens that I have a large supply of unneeded ethernet and phone cables and I am ussually very good with this kind of stuff. but this has me stumped. O.o Can these wires be used at electrical wiring in a simple or complex circuit? I mean it makes sense. but I don't want to waste time and not have it work as I've never used them like that before.
- Yes and it is a very good idea for SMALL electrical prodjects. What you need to do is clip the 2 ends of the ethernet cord and throw them away. Then you need to strip the rubber case that is on the outside of the cables. Its about 1 MM thick so be careful. Use like a scissors and make a little shallow cuts around the cord (O and by the way we are stripping the case of the real cords right now). Do this every foot or two and pull the rubber case off. There should be many little cords in there called CAT 5. Take two of those cords out and strip the ends of them and you have two perfectly good cords to work with (you can use the other cords as well of course). Thats pretty much all you have to do. Hope this helps!
- Q:i don't have any more information science class-extra creditt THANKS A MILLION
- Al and Cu.
- Q:can we replaced it with the normal plastic insulated wire?
- Only old appliances did this, and they probably had a lot of a now banned substance, asbestos, in them to handle the heat.
- Q:Hi everyone.We moved in a new house (not an appartment). The basement is finished. I am not usually be down there yet, so I can say it is not in use. I turned the separately partial heater down to 50 F degrees. The basement has some problem, the electric down there seems not steady. When I turn the neon lights on, it keeps blinking for the first 30 seconds. When I touch the switchers, it shocks me a little bit.For addition, my house is like 1600 square feet, 2 bed rooms, 1.5 baths. I keep the central air heater (pretty new, 2009) at 78 F degrees, and the electric bill first month came at $288 saying I used 2606 kWh for 20 days. I doubt that my basement's electrical wiring set-up is broken somewhere, so the electric leaks or wastes somehow.Questions are: Is it the first bill $288 for my house size weird? How do I test if my electrical wire set-up is not wasting my money?Thanks everyone.
- Do you have any electric heaters? The electricity is not leaking. If you have an electical leak, it is not the same as a water leak. An electrical leak will not increase your electicial bill noticeably. It will trip a breaker, blow a fuse, or cause a fire. You keep the basement at 50 degrees. this is likely the reason your neon (fluorescent lights) flicker before coming on. Fluorescent bulbs often will flicker or glow when the are cold and/or damp. If your house is noew the electrical boxes should be proerly grounded. As for the electrical shocks, they could be static electricity discharging to the grounded electrical boxes. If you are not sure, hire a reputable qualified electrician to check this out. If your house is new; keep any bills and present them to the builder only if there a fault was found in the wiring.
- Q:I have an antique home and I am trying to install a new ceilimg fan. The box only has a black and a white wire from the ceiling. I know where to connect the ceiling fan colored wires to - but to which do I put the ground to ?? Do I attach it to the black wire or the white wire??
- If there is not a corosponding ground wiring from the box, do not connect the ground from the fan to either wire. However, there might be a ground screw in the box that you could connect the fan ground to.
- Q:I am using a 12v dc motor with a DPDT switch and a 12v A23 battery. What thickness or type of electrical wire should I use?
- If your only desired end result is to get 30mA at no specific voltage, then all you need to look at is how much power is required from a particular motor/generator to get that. I'll ignore inefficiencies, except to assume they are the same, since all we're concerned about is which one requires more mechanical power to get 30mA. BTW, I think you meant required mechanical power, not require mechanical force. Mechanical force would be dependent on things like how fast the motor must turn to generate its rated voltage, any gearing, how large the driving gear/pulley is, etc. Mechanical power is just a measure of how much power you must put into turning the shaft, independent of all those other things. 6V x 30mA 180mW 2V x 30mA 60mW Power required to generate 30mA using a 6V motor/generator is clearly three times higher than using the 2V motor/generator.
- Q:I have an electrical switch that was faulty so I'm in the process of replacing it. I have a garage door opener that is plugged into an outlet on the garage ceiling that needs power all the time and a light that needs to be on a switch, on the same circuit. This doesn't seem possible to me but it's how it was wired previously. Unfortunately, I've already tossed the old switch thinking, “Oh, I'll just figure it out”. I have a tan wire, a white wire, and a black wire available I also have a 2-way and 3-way switch available.
- what is a 2 way switch are you calling that a spst switchbut any way you will now have to go to the outlet and the light and follow the colors
- Q:What is the meaning of SC15WCCC to SCE in electrical drawings?
- Building electrical drawings SC15WCCCSCE is the line laying mode code. SC15: wear Φ15mm welded steel pipe. WC: dark laid in the wall. CC: dark laid in the ceiling. SCE: ceiling laying, wear metal pipe.
- Q:cf ceiling fanlf old light fixtureI took down the old light fixture and there are 4 wires total; 2 white wires. Then there is 2 black taped off wires. The 2 white wires were the only wires connected, separately to the old light fixture. I tested all of the wires and all are hot except 1 white wire. I assumed that was ground. I installed my ceiling fan as follows; cf white wire to lf white wire. cf ground wire to non-hot lf white wire. cf black and black/white wire to only 1 lf black wire. I taped off the other hot black wire because i didn't think i needed to connect it. Turned light switch on, nothing. Fan does not work, light in fan does not work. Did I connect the wires incorrectly----- HELP! Thanks!
- You didn't say if you had a wall switch. This matters. Generally, both white wires are spliced together and these are the neutral. The 2 black wires are both hot. The ground wires are green or bare copper. You should have 2 black wires coming out of the light/fan; these are hot and are spliced to 2 hot wires from the ceiling fixture. Always black to black and cap these off. You hooked up the white neutral wire to the ground wire which is incorrect. If you don't have a ground wire coming out from the ceiling fixture which would be green or bare copper, just hook the ground wire from the light/fan to the metal plate in the ceiling. Good Luck!
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NiCr- CuNi(Constantan) thermocouple (Type E) A quality
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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