• Fiberglass Insulation Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Concealed Edge Hot Sale System 1
  • Fiberglass Insulation Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Concealed Edge Hot Sale System 2
  • Fiberglass Insulation Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Concealed Edge Hot Sale System 3
Fiberglass Insulation Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Concealed Edge Hot Sale

Fiberglass Insulation Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Concealed Edge Hot Sale

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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The tile is made by high-density fiberglass with compound decoration wool on the surface and fiberglass wool on the back .The edges are painted. With the characteristics of square in edges    and angle,it will be parallel to suspension system after installation.

 

Product Applications:

 

The titles are manufactured from high density dry felf resin bonded fiberglass wool, with fine texture painted glass tissue facer,plain tissue backer and sealed and painted edges.square edge titles will be paralled to suspension system after installation. 

 

Product Advantages:

 

1.  Materials:made by fiberglass,tension-strong.  

2.  Fire-proof:Grade A,tested by national authoritative department(GB9624-1997)

3.  Moisture-proof and sunk-proof:Good dimensional stability when temperature is below 40 degree and moisture is below 90%.

4.  Environmentally friendly:Both of the products and package can be recycled 

5.  High strength and small density, very suitable for ceiling decoration.
6.  Easy installation, attractive design. Low cost, competitive price

Main Product Features:

 

Material: Torrefaction Compounded high density fiberglass wool

Face: Special painting laminated with decorative fiberglass tissue

Color: white, black and others to order

Fire-resistant: class A, non combustible

NRC: 0.9-1.0, excellent sound absorption

Thermal-resistant: >0.4 (m2k/w)

Product Specifications:

Efficient Sound Absorbing Fiberglass Ceiling

FAQ:

Qustion1: How can you guarantee the quanlity of your products?

Firstly, our company listed Forture top 500, so we have high reputation in doing business. Secondly, we make our products according to the standards, and if you want to go and see our factories, it is ok and we will welcome you!

Question 2: Where is your factories?

Our factories in different areas of China, such as Shandong Province, Hebei Province, etc.

Question 3: May I get some samples of the product?

Yes, of course. If you need, we could sent you the small samples by the reliable delivery company such as DHL etc.

Images:

Q: This is an old house and has wood and some type of dry cement-type material in between the wood slats. I stepped on the ceiling while doing an insulation job in the attic. The wood is fine but the dryed material cracked and separated from the wood slats in the bathroom. The damages area is around 18 inches by 12 inches, and some cracks in other areas of the ceiling. I do not want to sheetrock the whole bathroom if i can avaoid it (too many projects in this ol house). thanks!
I would say go up to the attic where you made the initial damage. Where the damage was made, go to the opposite side of the wood, and use a box cutter to cut through, should cut enough to see it in the bathroom. Do this on each side of the wood beam, opposite side of the damage. Then go down to the restroom, finish cutting through, ( make sure no wires, pipes, etc are not in way) Cut along beams, then across to other beam, making a square or rectangle. Try not to break up the cut out piece. Keep it and get the exact measurement off another sheet rock slab. Cut the new sheetrock and secure it to the wood beams. Should be exact fit, don't worry if not perfect. From there, get some joint compound and fill it in nicely. Sand down after dry if needed...If not same thickness just add more compound to match it up.
Q: How is the basement corridor decoration better? How is the noise treatment better?
Villa basement decoration Note how much to know how much light the sun is often the basement is expected to be unsustainable.
Q: We recently purchased a condo with an unfinished walkout basement. Two walls above grade have fiberglass batts with a plastic vapor barrier. The ceiling has exposed fiberglass batts. We have no immediate plans to finish the basement, but I will have a washer and dryer down there. There is an electric blower to keep the pipes from freezing, but no other source of heat. I am concerned about exposure to the fiber from the ceiling batts and am wondering if there is any covering I can use to encapsulate the fiberglass, or would removal be the best option? I heard that to cover in plastic would not be a good idea because of condensation. We live in a cold winter climate. Thank you.
Short of a dropped ceiling, you might try stapling kraft paper or the such over the fiberglass. Lets the insulation breathe, but covers it up.
Q: I'm afraid that joint compound might not adhere well to plywood.
Joint compound will adhere very well to the plywood, but the movement of the plywood from temperature and humidity changes will cause the compound to crack. If this is an issue, batten strips may be the answer.
Q: We have an area in our ceiling that had water damage a few years ago and we repaired it ourselves for a quick fix. We never got around to actually getting it professionally repaired, but had never had any issues so it wasn't something we were worried about. About 3 days ago we noticed that there was a hole, about an inch long, I'm the crease of the ceiling where it meets the wall in the same place we had repaired. We don't know if maybe there is a mouse in the wall chewing a hole, if the house finally settled to the point where it cracked our repair job, or if there is another answer. It appears that the holes are only in the drywall tape and not in the drywall itself. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be going on our who we could call in to inspect this?
I would suspect mold - esp. since moisture was a problem.
Q: We had our carpets removed a while ago and installed laminate flooring instead.As a result, the house is not as warm as it used to be.Will it help if I add R13 insulation in the basement ceiling ? Will it keep the living room floor (which is just above the basement) warmer ?On the same manner, will adding another layer of insulation to the attic help in the winter and summer as well ?As for the mositure barrier paper, if I understand correctly, it should be facing up both cases, right ?
A vapor barrier always will go the heated side. But in you situation, just use unfaced insualtion in both applications. DO NOT use any plastic to cover anything. This will only trap moisture.
Q: Home improvement, tooling need to use what decorative materials, all have their own purposes, ask you prawn
Putty powder, used to brush the wall. The The Gypsum board, ceiling. The The Flooring, lighting, etc etc. The The
Q: What is pu line? What is the difference between pu lines and gypsum lines?
PU line refers to the production of raw materials with PU lines. PU is the abbreviation of Polyurethane, the Chinese name for the polyurethane referred to as polyurethane. Only need to simply modify the formula, you can get different density, flexibility, rigidity and other physical properties.
Q: What signs on plastic products are non-toxic
HDPE high density polyethylene Common white vials, cleaning supplies, bath products. Do not use it again Cups, or used to make other containers. Clean is not complete, do not use.
Q: i am living in a ground storey house and there's no construction on top of my house. therefore it's very hot in summer and winter is normal.please help me to elaborate any procedure or material for cooling my top (ceiling) . i would be very grateful. thanks and regards.
If you have a one story house, you must have an attic. Fiberglass insulation is the best way to help with the heat transfer from the roof to the inside of the house thru the attic. R-30 is the best but R-19 fiberglass batts will work too, depending on your budget and the space above the ceiling in the attic.R-30 insulation is 9 or 10 inches thick and is 15' OR 23 ' wide, R- 19 is 6 thick. Lay the batts of insulation above the wood framing in the attic , leave no spaces between the batts, and do not compress the batts, they need to be full thickness to work the best they can. If no attic space is there, then you need Styrofoam insulation under the roofing, on top of the roof deck, which is a whole different matter.

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