• F 46 insulated special rubber System 1
F 46 insulated special rubber

F 46 insulated special rubber

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
2000km m/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number:10 conductor

  • Conductor Material:Copper

  • Insulation Material:F46

  • Jacket:Rubber

  • Number of Conductors:10

  • Application:oilfield, well logging, oil exploration

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Each Pieces Packed in High Quality Plastic Pouch. Then all Packed Products in One Master Export Box.
Delivery Detail:30 days after payment

Specifications

rubber cable
a. Quick delivery
b. Competitive price with high quality

c. Free samples
d. Expert in cable and wire

10-core  fluoroplastic F46 insulated special rubber protected electrode cable-20.06

1. Product Standard

The product is manufactured according to the standard of SY/T6600-2004.

2. Application

This special 10 core rebber electrode cable is for oilfield logging and is suitable for bearing load connection between oilfield downhole testing instrument and transmission of signal cable. Inside the core place setting load bearing steel strand and outside the bearing load of steel strand setting rubber sheath which can withstand oil, acid, alkali. There are 10 group copper core with fluoroplastics insulation outside, special rubber sheath outside each insulation can withstand oil, acid, alkali. Special rubber sheath outside protect this cable from oil, acid, alkali and make it work in oil, acid, alkali environment for a long time.

3. Operating Characteristics

a.The lowest temperature that cable could work should not be lower than-30°C.

b.Max temperature is 232°C for short period (2h maximum duration each time).

c.Minimum bending radius is 30 times of cable diameter.

CONSTRUCTION DESCRIPTION:

Copper Construction:

7×0.0126’’

7×0.32mm

Plastic Type:

F46

Insulation Thickness:

0.0724’’

1.84 mm

The Rubber Protecting:

0.1338’’

2.95 mm

CABLE CHARACTERISTICS:

PHYSICAL:

Cable Diameter:

0.811’’±0.02’’

(20.60 mm ±0.50 mm)

Cable Weight In Air:

457 lbs/Kft  

680 Kg/Km

Temperature Rating :    

450 °F

232 °C

                                                 

MECHANICAL:

Cable Breaking Strength:

11000 lbs  

49 KN

Minimum Sheave Diameter:

20’’

500 mm

ELECTRICAL:

Voltage Rating:

1000 VDC

1000 VDC

Insulation Resistance:

50000 MΩ·Kft

15000 MΩ·Km

DC Resistance @ 20°C

11 Ω/Kft

36 Ω/Km

Cap Typical @ 1 KHz

40 Pf/ft

131 Pf/m

TIP: We can produce electrode cable of which breaking strength is greater than the same size over 60KN according to our customer’s requirements.

Q: The power supply is at the fixture in this case. I have 2 black wires (1 is the hot, I connected the hot to the other black to continue to the switch. The other wires are 2 white wires, 1 red wire and 2 grounds. At the switch there are multiple wires, including 3 black wires, 1 red, 3 white and 3 ground. One of the black wires I know goes on to other fixtures in another room. My issue now is I cannot get my main fixture I was trying to change the switch on to work and don't know which wire to connect to the switch. Right now I have removed the switch completely so the other rooms lights will work. Here is how I have it set up now. At the fixture black to black, white to white, red capped 2 grounds capped together. At the switch area: Black (hot from the fixture) to 2 blacks, all 3 whites connected, red is capped, and grounds are together. Which wires do I connect to the switch to control the fixture and still allow the other rooms lights to work. HELP!
The key is the red wire. At the switch junction, attach the red wire to one terminal of the switch. Combine all the black wires into one bundle and pigtail off a length of wire to attach to the other terminal on the switch. The black wires are now all constant hot, and the red wire is the switch leg going up to the fixture. The white wires should remain bundled by themselves. The bundle of ground wires can also be attached to the green ground terminal on the switch if one is present. At the fixture junction, bundle all white wires together and do the same with the ground wires. Attach the red switch leg to the black fixture wire. The remaining black wires in the junction should be bundled together to remain isolated from the fixture.
Q: I'm faced with a dilemma...I'm wiring my basement right now and all is fine, except for my living room. I want to have a 3-way switch setup, but with four light fixtures. I've already ran 3+ground wires in this order...Breaker box - Switch A - Fixture 1 - Fix. 2 - Fix. 3 - Fix. 4 - Switch B. I have done regular 3-way switches in the past, without much trouble, but I have no idea how to wire this, so well-explained instructions would be perfect.Thanks so much!
i hope i can give you good instructions. you have 2 switches you want to operate the lights. first. pull a feed or wire that will be hot probarly from your panel box to the easiest switch to get to. this wire should have 1 black 1 white and one bare copper or green. second pull a three wire from one switch to the other. this wire should have one black one white one bare copper or green and one red wire in it. now there are 2 different ways to go from here. one way. pull a wire from the switch opposite of the switch with the feed in it. this wire would be called a 2 wire it should have 1 black 1 white 1 bare copper or green, to the first light you want to operate. then you can pull a 2 wire from that light to any other light you want to operate from the switches. you do not need to pull any more wires from the lights to the switches. in the first switch with the feed take the white wire from the feed and tie it to the white wire from the 3 wire going to the other switch. take your grounds and tie them together. leave a wire from your grounds so you can tie it to the switch. put you white wires back into the box. you should have 2 blacks 1 red and 1 ground wire sticking out. when you install your switch a three-way switch has 4 screws on it. the ground goes to the green screw. now you have one black screw and 2 gold screws. the black wire from your feed wire ties to the black screw. the red and black wire from your 3 wire ties to the gold screw. one wire to on screw the other wire to the other screw. does not matter which. the opposite switch hooks up the same. the 2 white tie together and go into box. the grounds tie together and then tie to the green screw. the black wire going to your lights ties to the black screw and the red and black wires from the 3 wire go to the gold screws. remember if you are using 14 wire you can only put 12 amps on it that would be about 1400 watts. 12 wire you can put 16 amps on it which is 1900 watts.
Q: two straight and parallel wires are separated by 6 cm. there is a 2 A current flowing in the first wire. if the magnetic field strength is found to be zero between the two wires at a distance of 2.2 cm from the first wire, what is the magnitude and direction of the current in the second wire?
If the magnetic field at 2.2cm is zero it means that at that distance the fields produced by the two wires cancel out. At 2.2cm from the first wire the field strength is B= uI/ 2pi r ... . where u is the permitivity of free space, 4.0 x 10^-7 N/A^2 B= (4.0 x 10^-7 N/A^2)( 2 A)/ 2(3.14)(0.022m) B=( 8 x10^-7)/(0.138) B= 5.79 x 10^-6 Tesla The magnitude of the magnetic field from the other wire must be equal in magnitude at 3.8cm away (6- 2.2) and opposite in direction. Using the right hand rule (thumb points in direction of current and fingers curl around the wire to show the direction of the magnetic field) you can see that for the magnetic fields to be in opposite direction between the two wires the current must be flowing in the same direction as the first wire. Using the formula for magnetic field strength you can then determine the current needed. 5.79 x10^-6 T= (4.0 x 10^-7) I/ 2 (3.14)(0.038m) THen solve for I I= (5.79 x 10^-6 T)(2)(3.14)(0.038m)/ 4.0 x 10^-7) I= 3.45 A Therefore there is a current of 3.45A in the wire and it is flowing in the same direction as the first.
Q: My renter took apart a timer that was hooked to a ceiling fan because the timer was clicking loudly.Now, I just want to simply install a normal on/off switch in it's place. There are two sets of wires coming into the box. One set has a red,white, and black wire coming from it. The other set has just a white and black wire coming into the box. I'm sure this is relatively simple for someone who has wiring expertise. How do I wire a normal light switch to these wires?!?!
you ought to positioned the switching in earlier the low voltage transformer. If the light fixtures are all under pressure jointly, there's no way you have gotten the skill to preform this activity. you will ought to positioned the two light fixtures on one transformer and have the switched with or via the feed wires to the transformer. The final mild will must be via itself transformer and switched additionally with the a hundred and twenty volt feed. I woul hire an electrician a stable one, A union guy on the part or somthing. no longer your girlfrinds uncle chuck..
Q: What Spark Plugs and Wires would optimize my MPG? 2000 Bonneville SSEI
any plugs + wires will help the mpg a bit if the plugs are gapped correctly before installation
Q: I bought a new ceiling light and wired it myself. But I cheated by just copying the wiring from the old bracket into the new one. I want to do the other ceiling lights in my home. Supplied with the lights I am using is a 3 - way bracket (sori if terminology is wrong). Anyway the old bracket I copied was 4 way. My lights are wired from the mains supply with 3 live wires, 3 neutrals, and 3 positives. The light unit only has one live/neutral/positive wire. What do I do with the extra mains supply wires? I hope I have made myself clear as I even I am confused. Many thanks.
Sounds like you have extra wires that are feeding other outlets or lights.
Q: I just bought a set of performance sparkplug wires for my 2001 Chevy Cavalier. I went to install them and my engine is now misfiring like one of the wires in not connected. I have made sure all of the wires are on tight and in place. The wires did not come numbered so i just put them on according to size. What could be the problem???
It sounds like you may have installed the wires out of order. On your car the firing order is 1-3-4-2; standing at the front of the car the cylinder count is from passenger side to driver side (#1 is passenger; then 2-3-4.) Make sure your #1 wire is coming off the #1 terminal on the coil pack, then #3 wire on the second terminal, #4 on the third, and #2 wire on the last one. If that doesn't do it, than you may have bad wires. Check with your mechanic.
Q: I need the wiring diagram for the 1992 Lexus ES300 OE Stereo.I specifically need to know what colors (or numbers) the wires are for the front right and front left bottom door speaker.
Here ya go, 1994 Lexus ES300 Car Audio Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Gray Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown Car Radio Illumination Wire: Pink/Blue Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Pink/Blue Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Right of the glove box. Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White Note: White is the common ground for the signal going to the amplifier. Good Luck!
Q: What are some of the basic advantages of twisted pair wiring?
Less interference.
Q: subs - dvc 4ohm 2 of them 600wattrms on each wiring it to a 1200 watt amp same brand as sub amp is 1 ohm stable to i wire the subs together and then to the amp a 1ohm? that would give each sub 600 watts right?
The current passing through the wires will cause the wires to heat up if not sufficient guage. Think of the millions of little electrons pushing and shoving back and forth, all this action causes friction on a molecular level and of course we all know friction equals heat. In a bigger guage wire there is more room for the same number of electons. It's really that simple. Use as heavy a guage speaker wire that you can. You will have no signal loss and little heat.

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