Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll

Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll System 1

Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 60 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 10000 m.t./month

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Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll

1. Structure of Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll Description：

Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll is made with choice mild steel, through wire drawing, wire galvanizing and other processes. Galvanized iron wire has the characteristics of thick zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc‍.

Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll can be supplied in the form of coil wire, spool wire or further processed into straightened cut wire or U type wire. It is mainly used in construction, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving.‍

2. Main Features of Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll：

• Antirust

• Shiny silvery color

• High strength

• Durable

• Versatile

• Good visual effect

3. Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll Images

Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll

4. Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll Specification

5. FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

① How about your products？

‍One of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire mesh，is a large-scale professional Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world.Different kinds of wires and mesh are available according to customer’s requirements.‍

②How to guarantee the quality of the products？

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；Our company has good marketing network and abundant operation experience. Galvanized Iron Wire are sold to all parts of the country, at the same time, exported to Southeast Asia,The management theory is based on sincerity, keeping forging ahead. We have accumulated a whole set of marketing experience, having already become a local leader engaged in steel products.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of Electro Galvanized Solid Binding Wire Roll within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pacific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be served.

Q: I have a 1996 Cadillac Deville Sedan, and I bought a female wiring harness for it off of the internet. The Factory Wires doesn't include pink, but yet all the wiring codes say pink...the adapter I bought matches up to the Head Unit I want to replace the factory with, but when i put the battery back on and everything it doesn't turn on, I need to know how to wire this thing correctly, and if I bought the wrong adapter or not...Thank You.: Here is the original factory stereo dash wiring harness info this way you can use the new aftermarket wiring info and simply connect up the right ones to each other or at least figure out your problem. Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4″ Speakers Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue Hope that helps and best of luck.

Q: Just moved into a new house and the basement is already wired for surround sound. The ends are two wires one silver one gold/brass wrapped together with plastic. Looks like they were cut at the ends. How difficult would it be to wore the speakers myself?: If the wire you are referring to is standard speaker wire, then you wire it to your speakers, at one end, and to your receiver, at the other end, the same way that you normally wire up speakers. In other words, always connect the same colour of wire to each positive connection, and the other colour to all of the negative connections.

Q: Help me, please! I have an old air conditioning system...made in 1985, and the condenser fan went out. Long story short, I bought a new fan and I don't know how to hook it up. The old fan had 4 wires coming out of it: purple, black, green, and brown. The green is the ground and the brown and the purple went to the capacitor, black to power. Then there were two smaller black wires attached to the capacitor and they lead out to other components. My new fan has a green wire, a white wire, a black wire, a brown wire and a brown and white striped wire. My problem is this: I don't know where to attach the white wire or what to do with the two smaller black wires that were attached to the old capacitor. I was told by the gentleman who sold me the fan that I splice the white wire to purple wire - then do I hook that to the capacitor? What do I do with the two smaller black wires that lead out to other components??? (Cap them off???) I am confused and need some advice!: You need to check the wiring diagram that came with the motor. It will show you what wires to hook where. The capacitor is supposed to be hooked into the starting windings of the fan to kick start it initally, then it drops out of the circuit, and the run windings take over. They probably cross-matched a motor, so the same hookups aren't an option, so you will have to go back to the place, take a drawing of what the wires coming out to the old motor are, and what the new wires to your motor are, and have them connect the dots so to speak to give you a new wiring diagram.

Q: Found some electrical wiring resonably priced on craigslist but it says -----8 gauge (AWG), 3 wire, direct burry electrical cableDOES THAT MEAN ITS 3/0 WIRE? Because I need 3/0 wire direct burriedI am looking to buy some extra 3/0 wire and found some on craigslist for a reasonable price....: No, it's not 3/0. 3/0 and 8 gauge are both measures of the conductor size. a 3/0 wire has about 10 times the cross-section area that an 8 gauge wire has. So what you're looking at on CL isn't even in the neighborhood of what you need.

Q: don't say red because there is no red wire in the 3 wire radio assembly that came stock. there is a yellow wire, black with stripe, and gray with stripe: There is no Accessory wire, but only one yellow switched power wire hot in run. I usually steal accessory power in an F-body from the cigar lighter harness. One of the other wires, I forget which, is hot with the dash lights. Isolate it.

Q: I have 2 wires that go from the Solenoid to the wiring harness. But i don't know which wires go to where. One of the wires from the Solenoid it the remote switch and the other is the power for my whole interior. There are red, orange and black wires that come from the wiring harness. but i don't know which ones to use.: Your looking for a drive ,but if you would like to look for a starter try Competition Sales online.They deal with mostly Chevy performance parts. Good luck

Q: I have seen 2 wire detectors and horn strobes, and 4 wire detectors and horn strobes. What is the difference? The 2 wires are cheaper.: In 2-wire systems the power and the detector signal are multiplexed onto 2 wires. The detector has to have circuitry to extract the power and multiplex the signal onto the wires, making them slightly more complex. In 4-wire systems the power is separate from the signal, unless there is more than one signal from the detector (i.e. smoke heat). It could be 2 wires for power and 2 wires for a single signal (i.e. smoke), or 1 wire for power, 1 wire for smoke, and 1 wire for heat, with the 4th wire being common to all 3. .

Q: Why is it that some wires get hot,having electricity flow throught them,while others don't?And why is it that when there is a lot of resistance in a wire, that it doesn't get hot?Why does the length of a wire has an effect on the temperature of that wire, and how exactly?: we know that the power = i^2 *r where i : is the current through the wire. r : is the equivalent resistance of the current. so this power will be consumed in the wire in form of heat, so if the resistance of any wire increase, the absorbed power will increase. Also we know the resistance of any wire = * l / a where : - = constant, the resistivity of the matter ( copper, aluminum,... ). - l = the length of the wire. - a = cross section of area of the wire. as the length of the wire increase, the resistance will increase, so the power will increase, this lead to increase of the heat in the wire.

Q: I heard that Japanese could load a low voltage without any wires in one direction for 1 meter! Of course 1 meter is nothing. But can we get rid of wires in next 50 or 100 years?: no the wires will be stronger and more hungry they will eat our brains and then we will be the wires but that's ok because our psychic abilities will be put to use at last

Q: I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.: Garage door springs are part of the garage door itself, not the garage door opener. That said, it must also be added that the springs make it much easier to raise and lower the door. They generally last a long time, and they have only one function. But over time, all that lifting, through all those weather changes, tend to weaken the metal and lead to a break. In my case, the springs appeared to be original to the house, which means they've been at work since 1956. Once you understand that long record of service, it becomes a little hard to complain when they finally break down. And break down they did. It was a Sunday afternoon, and we were sitting around the quiet house reading. Suddenly, we heard a large noise that sounded like a very heavy object had fallen on the roof, or maybe a car had driven into the side of the house. I quickly started hunting around for the cause, and couldn't find a thing. So much noise, and no noticeable cause? Didn't make sense . . . until I went out later and tried to open the garage door. Even then, it took me some time to figure out that the spring had split. Once I discovered it (see photo), I knew I'd found the source of the noise. With a broken spring and a solid wood door to a two-car garage, you really can forget about opening the door. I couldn't lift it more than an inch.

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