• Ductile Iron Single  Ball Air Valves System 1
Ductile Iron Single  Ball Air Valves

Ductile Iron Single Ball Air Valves

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Specifications

PN10/16/25
DN50 ~ DN200

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

                                              EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Q: What are the types of control valves used in the oil industry and how are they applied.
There are other manual control valves and on/off automatic valves that are used a various places for remote or emergency control. These can be globe, gate, ball, plug or butterfly valves. They can be actuated by pneumatics, hydraulics or electric power.
Q: I want to reduce the prssure of a liquid flow (ethanol) from 16.7 atm to 1.2 atm? Do I need more than one valve?
One control valve can reduce pressure, as long as there is always a significant flow through it. The main reason for using more than one valve is usually to reduce or prevent cavitation caused by a large pressure change through a given valve. Ethanol has a pretty high vapor pressure, so cavitation might be a problem. Control valve manufacturers usually provide design guides for their valve trim choices (often in software form) that lead you through the choices and requirements. Each valve design has different limits. But, my seat of the pants feel is that you can do this with one valve. I have included an example. I am not specifically recommending this company. -- Regards, John Popelish
Q: hii have just found out i have a genetic disease called multi valve prolapse but i want more info about itwhat are the symptoms? can it kill me? any info will help!!thank you
Do you mean Mitral valve prolapse? The mitral valve helps blood on the left side of the heart flow in one direction. It closes to keep blood from moving backwards when the heart beats (contracts). Mitral valve prolapse is the term used when the valve does not close properly. It can be caused by many different things. Most people have no symptoms, but some people have chest pain, a rapid pulse, awareness of heartbeats, migraine headaches, fatigue, and dizziness. In a small number of cases, the prolapse can cause blood to leak backwards. This is called mitral regurgitation. Mitral valves that are structurally abnormal can raise the risk for bacterial infection. Some forms of mitral valve prolapse seem to be passed down through families (inherited). Mitral valve prolapse has been associated with other genetic disorders.
Q: its rated 120 VAC/26VA (3 prongs, one for ground) . I also have a horizontal level switch for liquid with rating 120 VAC/0.28 A (the switch will connect when the water level reach the target) normally open.How can I wire them so that when the level reached the valve will close and water will not flow into the tank? The switch is inside the tank and the valve connecting the pipe for feed water. Thanks
I okorder / and if they dont have the answer for you, then go to the parts page and buy the book. - its cheap
Q: I have the correct tools and have done this before. All I want to do is change all three valves that operate the water (hot,diverter,cold). The shower is leaking. I want to change all three valves to stop the leak. I will call a plumber if I can't change the valves or stop the leak. Please tell me what tools I need and I'll begin from there. I have three handles/valves in the shower(cold,diverter,hot).The cold is here # and the diverter is in the center which is here # and the hot is here #. They all line up like this c# diverter# h#. These are how the valves are set up # # #.
those 2 tabs are element of the cartridge. a clean cartridge comes with a disposable piece that fits in with those tabs and a sq. on the tip so which you would be able to turn and circulate it with a crescent wrench, which in turn loosens so it particularly is pulled out. possibly you ought to apply a robust needle nostril pliers to get it to tutor in case you probably did not desire to purchase the hot cylinder first. I believe utilising the plumbers grease once you're putting in the hot one.
Q: Would it be cheaper to get a toyota Valve body U140/240 repaired or would it be easier to swap it out... by the way the transmission valve body would cost $780
LOL okorder DETROIT MICHIGAN! $780, my SORE LEFT FOOT!
Q: Can anyone tell me what to do if i know that I have the type of valve stem that was recalled TR413chrome?? Will they replace them for free since they are a recall or do I have to dish out some more $$ to fix the problem??? The company that sold them to me is in Florida (Wheelmax) and I am in Mass. Not sure what to do to avoid having to pay out more $$ to have them replaced...any help is greatly appreciated
I'd have to say they will probably supply you with the new valve stems for free, but you may have to pay to have them installed (unless you know how to do it yourself.) We had a fuel pump recall and they sent us a new one but we had to install it ourselves. Good luck!
Q: What is the primary function of valve seals?
A 'leak-down' test is the best bet, indicates the place in the process the compression is leaking and if it's across the valve stems than for definite the seals need replacing. Are not able to judge it via the smoke correctly as oil would be slipping previous the rings also.
Q: I have several stations in my automatic lawn sprinkler system. Each station has a valve that contains: 1. Manual Shutoff, 2. Flow Control Knob, 3. Solonid, 4. Anti-Siphon valve. Any way my question is this, Why does water continue to flow even when the manual shutoff is turned off and the flow control is also turned off?
the guy above me got to it before i did. sounds like either a diaprham has just gone out, or the solenoid plunger is stuck, or there is a rock or something inside the valve, not closing it all the way. like trying to close a door with your foot in it. it will not close all the way. A word of advice would be to go ahead and replace the anti-siphon valves with regular inline valves. anti-siphon valves are pretty much junk any type. As far as diagnosing the problem now, 1. check your timer's programming and make sure that its not sending out power to this zone all of the time. ( this would make the timer bad). 2. carefully open the valve up ( with the water turned off of course), and inspect the diaprham. if it has any tears or ripps in it, get a new diaphram, if not, then flush the lines out with the valve open to see if any debris is in the line( rocks pipe pieces, etc.) and clean it out. 3. take out the solenoid and make sure the plunger in it is not sticking. ( if so replace the solenoid). 4. if all else fails just simply cut out and replace the entire valve and plumb in a new one properly. personally i would use either Hunter PGV valves, Rainbird DVF 100 valves, or Irritrol 205 series valves. all are inline models. antisiphon valves tend to fail. i work on sprinkler systems full time for 95 $ per hour of labor for our company. hope this can help you out John A
Q: right after it come through the foundation. Should it be a gate valve?
Main shut off of what? Water or gas?

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