Double Loop Tie Wire From China Supplier High Quality

Double Loop Tie Wire From China Supplier High Quality System 1

Double Loop Tie Wire From China Supplier High Quality

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 5 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 50000 m.t./month

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Specification

Material:

Galvanized Iron Wire,Iron Wire

Cross Sectional Shape:

Round

Application:

Construction Wire Mesh

Type:

Galvanized,U Type Wire,Loop Tie Wire

Wild in Width:

1.1M

Surface Treatment:

galvanized

Status:

In Hard State

Thickness:

Metal Thick Wire

Galvanized Technique:

Hot Dipped Galvanized,Electro Galvanized

Product description

1. Wire style:

Electro Galvanized Iron Wire

Hot Dipped Galvanized Iron Wire

2. Use:

Mainly used in communication equipment, medical equipment and weaving nets, brushes, cables, filters, high pressure pipe, construction, handicrafts and other industries.

we can be made according to customers specific requirements

3.Features of Galvanized Wire:

Material: low carbon steel wire

Tensile Strength: 400--580Mpa

Standard wire gauge for electro galvanized iron wire: From 8# to 16#

Hot-DIP galvanized iron wire standard wire gauge: From 8# to 24#

We has devoting ourselves to producing and trading for 10 years,eatablishing a good relationship with the company of US,Canada,Mid easten and so on.

Product name	high quality double loop tie wire from china supplier
Length	As your request
Material	Q195,Q235
Coating	As your demand
Weight	1-800kg/coil
Production QTY:	1000tons/month
MOQ:	No
Delivery time:	20days after payment
Payment terms:	T/T,L/C
Application:	Binding Wire
Remarks	No rust

product size:	(other size as your demands)
Wire Gauge	SWG in mm	BWG in mm	In Metric System mm
Wire Gauge	SWG in mm	BWG in mm	In Metric System mm
8#	4.06	4.19	4
9#	3.66	3.76	-
10#	3.25	3.4	3.5
11#	2.95	3.05	3
12#	2.64	2.77	2.8
13#	2.34	2.41	2.5
14#	2.03	2.11	-
15#	1.83	1.83	1.8
16#	1.63	1.65	1.65
17#	1.42	1.47	1.4
18#	1.22	1.25	1.2
19#	1.02	1.07	1
20#	0.91	0.89	0.9
21#	0.81	0.813	0.8
22#	0.71	0.711	0.7

High Quality Double Loop Tie Wire From China Supplier

Factory photos

Q:Hello, I have a 4 year old Trane XR12 unit. Recently the compressor fan is noisy, and now stops when when under power after 5-10 min. The main fuses and breakers are fine, the fan spins freely when turned, the contactor pulls in fine, the dual capacitor checks out. But, the wiring of the capacitor does not match wire diagrams. Could this have caused the fan motor to prematurely fail?..............................Terminal: C red wire, FAN brown wire, HERM has both orange and purple. Schematic shows the purple wire should be with red wire on common C. The purple also leads to fan.: Hi, I looked at the schematic on-line. If you still have the original fan motor in the unit then you are correct. The center terminal on the capacitor should have the red wire from the T1 terminal of the contactor, the red wire from the compressor, and the purple wire from the fan. The FAN terminal should have the brown wire from the fan. The HERM terminal should have the orange wire from the compressor. The black wire from the fan and the black/blue wire from the compressor should lead back to the T2 terminal of the contactor. Again, that is if the motor is the original motor. If it was replaced at some point in time, the wiring colors can change from manufacturer to manufacturer, in which case it's possible that the new motor is wired correctly. There should be a diagram on the motor to show you the correct wiring configuration.

Q:It every download on lime-wire basic free and is the down load of lime-wire basic free is lime wire really illegal thanks: I used lime-wire but it was totally spammed. I got a lot of spyware on my computer, so be very careful. It's basically free but you don't get much for free. It's called file sharing.

Q:You have been given two samples of wire: one nichrome, one aluminum. Describe a procedure you could use to determine which sample was nichrome and which was aluminum: first, knowing the resistance of each wire (i dont know it, you need to look it up) i would set up a circuit to put out [X] amt of current (the amt of the lowest resistance in the wires) and run the current thru the wires to a light bulb. if the bulb doesnt light, you now have figured out that this is the wire with the most resistance (again i dont know which has a higher one) for clarification- aluminum resistance = X nichrome resistance = y circuit with current EQUAL to resistance of the lowest wire (for example if X was lowest with 3 ohms, you would set the current to however many amps/volts are required to overcome that) and then connect it to a bulb. when its turned on, if the bulb doesnt light, you have determined that it isnt wire X but wire Y. even more simply, just list the wires by their resistance. if X=3 ohms, Y= 4 ohms, and the bulb doesnt light at 3, you have determined that its wire Y. im assuimng you would have the resistance of the wires? this is how i would do it, but if thats the right way? i dunno. but it is one way.

Q:I have a grounding wire for my HIDs which I need to increase the length for. How do I do this?: Get a roll of cable from a shop like halfords and connect together with connector block. Of just connect the original wire to a metal part of the car close to the light. Just have to scratch a bit paint off for a good connection

Q:exact wiring: 1995-96 Dodge Dakota Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Black Ignition Switch Harness Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray Coil Neutral Safety Wire Brown/Yellow Driver's Side of Trans. Brake Switch White or White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Parking Lights Black/Yellow Light Switch Head Lamp Light Green Light Switch Hood Pin n/a Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Pin Switch Door Lock Orange/Purple Driver's Kick Panel Door Unlock Pink/Purple Reverse Polarity Horn Wire Dark Green/Red (-) Fuse Panel Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White

Q:sence my stock head unit has no remote wire, when I hook the amp up, will it still drain the battery? I have everything connected, but the deck does not have no remote wire, and if it does I have no idea how to locate it. I am worried it will continue to run the amp when the car is off and drain the battery. Am I worried for nothing? If it will continue to drain the battery, how do I prevent this from happening?: use a test light ($5), you just need to connect the remote wire to a wire that is only hot when the car is on, (like the ignition power wire -not constant- going to the radio) and on factory radios it is usually a wire that is made to send the signal to the power antenna

Q:I want to install a single-pole dimmer switch for a series of 4 pot lights in the same box (double gang) as a kill switch for a receptical already installed. There is a 14-3 wire (b/w/r/g) brigning power into the box from the main, and 14-2 wiring for the dimmer and 14-2 wire for the kill switch. How do I wire this? The single pole dimmer has a ground and two black wires. The switch to kill the receptical has only two brass screws on one side.: Wires that have continual power are called source wires. One of the source wires (any color other than white or green) should be hooked up to one of the brass screws on your kill switch. The other brass screw will have the wire going to the receptacle. NOTE: A switch is used to connect/break the connection of power going to an appliance/fixture. The other source wire will go to one of the black wires on your dimmer switch. The other black wire on the dimmer switch will go to the 4 pot lights as its source, in which we call a switch leg. The ground wire of the dimmer switch is hooked to the ground wire in the box. No white or neutral wires are needed for this...Test the wires first so that you know what wire is for what. Then, make sure you turn off all power so that you don't damage the dimmer switch.

Q:my rabbit is chewing wires and in one area in my room there are like 300 wires i was just wondering if i can spray something on the wires cause i thought i saw something that said that please help!!!!: you ought to purchase plastic twine covers at OKorder or objective or probable any workplace merchandise shop. If achieveable, bunch the wires and circulate all wires up or out of return and forth routes as a precautionary degree, disguise them or block get entry to to them (as in case you have not already tried that ;o). Plexiglass, or previous pillows or towels (which you would be able to get at a thrift save) ought to conceal the wires until she's use to not biting them. one in all my bunnies use to consume paint precise off the wall - I had to purchase Deer Fence (any animal repellent ought to do) to end him from doing it. It worked, the abode smelled aweful for a collectively as, even with the shown fact that it broke the habit. All of my bunnies use to consume wires, wallpaper, and carpet while they have been youthful. They grew out of it after 2ish - thank goodness! good success!

Q:How do I wire MULTIPLE ones? I checked many sites and yes, I do get schematics, I've seen a billion schematics, but now I don't know how to actually put it together.My big question is, can I just solder two wires running from my 5V + terminal like that? Would there be problems?So if I have a 5V battery.: You can do this a number of ways. All of the postive terminals must be connected in some way and all of the commons must be connected in some way. This doesn't mean you have to connect each positive to every other postive, and likewise for the common. You have a few options: You can solder two wires to the positive terminal of the battery and run one wire to each load (device). You can solder one wire to the positive terminal of the battery, run this wire to the first load (device), solder another wire to the first load (device), connect this wire to the second load(device). You can solder one wire to the positive terminal to the battery, run this wire to the second load, solder an additional wire to the second load, and run the second wire to the first load. In industry, power wires are typically jumped from one device to the next to delivery power to each device that needs it. Basically, your power needs to go to each one. How you connect them is up to you.

Q:I have a 1988 ford econoline, and I'm upgrading my radio. I need a straight up answer, I need to know what the colors for each wire stands for, function wise.: The okorder /

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