Brass wire

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Product introduction: Featured brass wire and then processed,

the line is arranged closely and with a bracket is fixed, or as a bundle of wire,

this product is mainly used in the gardens of the binding and manor decorationsthe

product produced is very beautiful, also very convenient use, it is the preferred product

for garden binding.The wire diameter size in the range 0.6mm-6.0mm.

Packing:Plastic packing then in carton.

Q: A 0.500 g wire is stretched between two points 95.0 cm apart. If the tension in the wire is 600 N, find the wire's first, second, and third harmonics.______Hz (1st)______Hz (2nd)______Hz (3rd): Kia ora In order to answer this question, we first need to ascertain the speed of a wave in this wire. The speed of a wave on a wire depends upon the tension 'T' and the linear density (mass per unit length) 'μ' of the wire. v=√(T/μ) T=600 N The linear density of your wire is 5.00E-4 kg/0.95=5.263E-4 kg/m. So for this wire, v=√(600/5.263E-4) =1068 m/s Now we have the speed, we need to find the wavelengths that correspond to the harmonics we are interested in. The wire is fixed at both ends. Nodes occur at fixed ends. Therefore the first harmonic will occur when there is a node at each end and the longest possible wavelength that satisfies this condition is λ=2L (you get half a wavelength on the wire). So λ=2*0.95=λ=1.90m. If v=1068m/s and λ=1.90 then by the wave equation v=fλ f=v/λ=1068/1.90=562.1 Hz. So that is the first harmonic. The second harmonic has twice the frequency of the first; the third harmonic has three times the frequency of the first. The second harmonic will therefore occur at 562.1*2=1124 Hz and the third at 562.1*3=1686 Hz. Because your data was given to 3sf you need to round your answer to 3sf: 1st harmonic: 562 Hz 2nd harmonic: 1120 Hz 3rd harmonic: 1680 Hz

Q: has black wires.: Two black wires in the box would be a hot from the supply and a switched hot to the load. If the timer has only two wires then it should be pretty easy to just connect them. If they are marked line and load then you would have to hook the wire for line to the wire in the box that is always hot from the supply and the other to the wire marked load. If you are still unsure then it really is not a job for you alone, enlist the help of someone with a bit more experience or even an electrician.

Q: what size of wire should I use for my 1.5hp aircon, 220volt: If the distance to the power source is 100 ft or less a #10 wire should work. If it is further than that you should call an electrician. added note: # 14 copper is for light service wire. It would max out under use with an AC and possibly overheat.

Q: I wanted to ask, im busy installing a new stereo headset for my car,when i replaced the old stereo with the new one, i used the wire harness from the old stereo and joint the wires to the back of new the stereo (which there is another black adapter that goes in the wire harness area on the the new stereo) i did this by connecting the wires from the stereo adapter to the wire harness that connects to the car, although the adapter that connects to the stereo has more wires than the wire harness that connects to the car,( i only connected the wires that were matching such as grey wire to grey wire, grey wire with black strip to grey wire with black strip, and so on, i obviously didn't connect the colours that didn't match to the wire harness wires, although i looked up online and apparently the yellow wire is a power wire, but i don't know where to connect it......if anyone could help, this would be greatly appreciated , i also wanted to ask, would this solve the problem if i buy a new wire harness? Thanks: What kind of car is it? That's important, especially if it's a foreign make because those wires are so weird colored. Typically, yellow or ornage is power, red is memory, and the purple, gray, white, green wires are for the speakers .Black or brown wires are ground. Any blue wires you might come across are mainly just auxiliary signal wires that go to an aftermarket amp and subwoofer setup. Unless you have something like that, those wires can be taped off and forgotten about. Also, when wiring an aftermarket radio to your car, you will need to purchase an adapter harness that plugs into the stock wiring of the car and the wires connect to the radio wire harness correspondingly. I suggest soldering all the necessary wires and sealing them with shrink tube. It's the most solid, most sure way of a good connection without the worry of shorts and disconnections.

Q: Found some electrical wiring resonably priced on craigslist but it says -----8 gauge (AWG), 3 wire, direct burry electrical cableDOES THAT MEAN ITS 3/0 WIRE? Because I need 3/0 wire direct burriedI am looking to buy some extra 3/0 wire and found some on craigslist for a reasonable price..: 3/0 is the gauge of the wire you are looking for. In this case, 3/0 means three zeros, or 000. Smaller numbers for the gauge mean larger wire. After the gauge reaches 0, additional zeros are added to indicate even larger sizes. 2/0 (or 00) is larger than 0, 3/0 is larger than 2/0, etc, so the 8 gauge wire you found is considerably smaller than the 3/0 (or 000) wire you need. Don't confuse this with a designation similar to 8/3. In this case, the 8 would be the gauge and the 3 is the number of insulated conductors in the cable.

Q: I plugged in my new Pioneer DEH-P6500it worked for a little bit until i moved it around a littlethe speakers started to go out but the subs still sounded finei messed around with it and found the wire responsible for it allits a red wireit says AAC or somethingif i messed with the copper twist the speakers would come in and outi stripped the wire a little and put it back together but now the head unit wont even turn onand im also left with like 2 inches of red wireis my only option to get a new pioneer wire harness?what is the problem?the red wire i think supplies the power to the whole head unit because when its not connected, the whole thing turns onbut only the speakers go on and off when i messed with itbut it wont turn on anymore: The red wire is the ignition wire. There are two wires that supply power to your head unit. One is the yellow wire which is a constant source of power. This keeps all your settings on the radio and the clock. The red wire is used to switch on your head unit. When you turn on your car the wire gets power and turns your head unit on. First, like said before, make sure the wire is getting power by checking fuses. There should be one in the head unit and one in your car's fuse panel. If that is not it then you will want to see if the wire is split somewhere. An easy way to check if the wire is getting power is if you have a DMM (digital multimeter). Then just check if there is voltage in the wire. Your car must be on to check this though. Good Luck!!! Edit: DMMs are cheap, you can get one for around $15. They have even cheaper ones if you get it at Harbor Freight.

Q: A wire has a resistance of 21.0 ohms. It is melted down, and from the same volume of metal a new wire is made that is three times longer than the original wire. What is the resistance of the new wire?: The resistance of the new wire is (in terms of its length, area resistivity); R2 = pL2/A2 And the resistance of the original wire is; R1 = pL1/A1 The ratio is;(resistivity will cancel because its the same for both situations) R2/R1 = L2A1/L1A2 given L2 = 3L1 R2/R1 = 3A1/A2 To find the new cross-sectional area ,require the volumes to be equal; L2A2 = L1A1 3L1A2 = L1A1 A2 = (1/3)A1 Sub this into the R2/R1 equation to get; R2/R1 = 9 R2 = 9R1 = (9)(21) = 189 ohms

Q: I am trying to take 4 lights in the basement that currently all have to be turned on independently and wire them all in series to a single switch. I just took the wires and put them to the switch and then to the first light. it came on but when i held the silver metal shielding piece that houses the wires, I got a tingle. I think that would mean I need to connect the third wire. The grounding one. The light did come on which I think means I had the pos and neg connected right. Where do I connect the ground wire and what caused the tingle? by ground wire I mean the third wire that is nothing but copper. I think I just put it to the case or the light or whatever looks like a good spot to get grounded. any extra knowledge or advice is a big help! In the mean time I will be searching the web for how to's.: Do yourself a favor. Hire a handyman or electrician. Be smart. If you are asking these questions you shouldn't be doing the work.

Q: I recently bought a set of DT Moto emergency lights for my pickup and after installing them i found when i went to wire them to my battery the wire was too short. I didn't install the grille lights just the visor. Could i cut wires from the grille set and wire them to extend the visor light wire?: I'm looking online to find out what DT Moto lights are. Ok, I see what they are. I didn't know the brand name. LED lights in general are not high current, so they probably use lamp cord. I want to explain something to you about polarity. Electronic circuits are sensitive to the polarity of the DC electricity. The positive (+) and the negative (-) connections must be observed. So many people have absolutely no clue about this. There are just two wires. But if you extend them, you have a 50-50 chance of wiring correctly or incorrectly. There is only one allowable way. If wrong, it WON'T work, and probably will blow up the circuitry. So connection to battery or cigarette lighter plug is extremely important not to reverse the polarity. If just the LED lights got reversed, they wouldn't light, but they wouldn't be injured. Just reverse the wiring. But to the 12 volt source, polarity can't be wrong. Not for an instant. If you look closely at the insulation, you will see that one wire has smooth insulation, and one wire either has milti-ribbed insulation, or a single rib down the side. If you extend wiring, make sure to connect smooth to smooth and ribbed to ribbed. Wires should be soldered with electronic solder and the joints covered with heat shrink tubing. No crimped barrel connectors, or twisted bare wires with tape, or house wiring wire nuts. These methods all beg for failure. I don't know about robbing wire from one place and connecting to another. Is the one wire actually too long? You'll never need it? I guess you could take it. But me personally, I'd go get some wire from a lamp store. Match the wire conductor gauge (size), not the insulation size. Most lamp cord is 18 gauge. Some is 16 gauge. You can get 14 gauge or even 12 gauge. Thicker is a smaller number. Places that install car audio systems often have/sell thicker lamp cord. Have I told you enough?

Q: I'm trying to hook up my second phone line. I have a red, green and yellow wire in the cable, but no black wire. Is there a reason for this? And what can I do to get the second line up and running? thx: the wire you have is designed for 1 line only. Back in the day the yellow wire was used to carry ground because ground was necessary for old circuits. Ground is no longer needed so in order to get two lines you need at least a two pair wire (meaning four wires) you might have to run a new wire unfortunately or just keep that one and run another to separate jack.

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