• Ray St Clair Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composite Material for Thermal Insulation System 1
  • Ray St Clair Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composite Material for Thermal Insulation System 2
  • Ray St Clair Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composite Material for Thermal Insulation System 3
Ray St Clair Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composite Material for Thermal Insulation

Ray St Clair Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composite Material for Thermal Insulation

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
1000000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

 

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

 

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on.

 

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

 

 

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

STRUCTURE

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL

MPET /BUBBLE/MPET

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

THICKNESS

1-4mm

8mm

6.5mm

4mm

4mm

WEIGHT

120GSM

240GSM

180GSM

120GSM

445GSM

BUBBLE SIZE

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM

WIDTH

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY

0.034w/mo

0.032 w/mo

0.032w/mo

0.034w/mo

5.87m2.k/w

REFLECTIVITY

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

 

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulationis one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q: I have a low pitched roof so there isn't that much room up there hands and knees only.I have no eave ventilation but the ventilation is through the front and back of the house through triagle metal caps cut into the wood siding. I already have some R19 in the ceiling joists but was wondering would putting it in the rafters against the plywood holding the shingles also help insulate the living area of the house.
No blowing in some insulation will help but putting insulation against the roof wont help. the attic area is supposed to breath to avoid condensation and overheating. The only thing you would put on the roof side would be to help cooling in summer since the shingles heat up the wood underneath and heats the attic, which then works down through the ceiling.
Q: How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?
323 square feet per cubic mile.
Q: we replacing our torched down rubber roof and my contractor said we need to install a 1 inch rigid insulation..is the insulation needed?
There are a couple of types of torchdown, refer to the manufacturers instructions for the product being used. Most rubber or vinyl (pvc) do not fuse to the roof surface and depend on soft non-abrasive surface for maximum life.
Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?
You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
Q: In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!
Sorry but there isn't enough info to give a good answer...is there space between the ceiling and the roof to add insulation...there may be enough insulation but no ventilation in the area directly under the roof (atic area) If there is not enough air flow in this area the temperature will skyrocket thus heat the kitchen AND the shingles will deteriorate very quickly.If you still need to add insulation the best way is to put sloped roof (if possible)and add insulation in the space created or you can use foam insulation and re roof ..make sure you seal between the wall system and new insulation and whatever method make sure to allow air to flow under the roof (both inflow and outflow)
Q: roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
Only you. 8 years is long past any roofer's warranty
Q: We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?
The attic will always be warmer than the house--that's the point of the insulation--to separate the heat in the attic from the cooler air in the house. However, to improve it even more, add insulation on the ceiling joists (not the roof rafters). Make sure there is plentiful ventilation in your attic (when the wind blows, you should feel it blowing inside your attic). Eave vents, ridge vents--it doesn't really matter which ones you use--but you have to have enough for the air to really flow.
Q: Tax Question: Itemized receipt for roofing and insulation?
The insulation is a tax deduction. Call the contractor and ask for an itemized reciept for tax purposes.
Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
if the garage is heated do it all the cost of the insulation vs the cost of heat today is outrageous doing it now will save a ton later

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