Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material

Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material System 1

Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Insulation Material

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

STRUCTURE	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL	MPET /BUBBLE/MPET	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL
THICKNESS	1-4mm	8mm	6.5mm	4mm	4mm
WEIGHT	120GSM	240GSM	180GSM	120GSM	445GSM
BUBBLE SIZE	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM
WIDTH	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY	0.034w/mo	0.032 w/mo	0.032w/mo	0.034w/mo	5.87m2.k/w
REFLECTIVITY	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulation，is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

④What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q: do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?: Some mobiles have a vented attic and some don't. If your attic is vented, the foam on the roof won't help insulate inside the house. I've blown insulation into a mobile home attic before (vented attic), but some mobiles one can't (not vented attic). There are different variations of attic venting, dictating if you can blow in or not. I would add insulation anyway, if you can, mobiles usually skimp on attic insulation, even if they are "certified".

Q: Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.: I think you'll get more bang for you buck just going with the radiant barrier and having a continuous ridge vent.

Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?: You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.

Q: The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?: That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.

Q: I'd like to put a train set in my loft / attic, so to avoid it being cold in there during the winter I'm considering having no insulation in the floor of it where one usually would, thus allowing the heat to rise into the loft. Then, insulate the roof between the rafters instead. Is this just as good at keeping the heating costs down?: That's a far more complicated change than you realize. * The added area exposed to exterior conditions will increase your home's total heat loss with the same insulation values. * When that roof was installed, there was some form of venting sceme installed as well. If it was based on an insulated attic floor, it might need to be changed for an insulated roof. Get some advice from a 'pro', before you do anything.

Q: Re-roof + gutters + insulationHi. My name is Sean and I live in Adelaide. I want to get rid of my asbestos roof and replace it with a Colorbond roof and new gutters and also R3 ceiling insulation. I've had 1 quote so far for $17,000 total costs, and 1 quote for roof removal only which was $3,300. Does anyone know if I can get a cheaper quote but still get a good job done please?Roof area: 160m2 approx.Gutters: 25 linear metres approx.Capping: 52 linear metres approx.Cheers.: I am a roof plumber in melbourne I think this is a reasonable price. Materials will cost approx 8000-10000 grand 3300 for asbestos removal and the rest for labour. The best advice is plenty of quotes and keep them to their quotes. If you can get a roll of metal direct from bluescope you can get a company like apex roofing to roll it for you but it is alot of mucking around to save a little bit

Q: I have a split house with an attic where I have insulation on attic floor, but the house seems to be cold still, Can I add insulation to the roof of the attic? If so, any options? Thank you.: No, you want the air to circulate from the soffit vent to the ridge vent or gable vents, whichever you may have. This will prevent mold and condensation.

Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)

Q: I've found lots of building forums and general &quot;building advice&quot; columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).: It's in euro's but you can convert or get the idea. Also, you have to click on the graphs to get a more clearer image.

Q: What are the roof insulation materials?: Polystyrene foam is divided into expansive EPS and continuous extrusion type XPS two: polystyrene board full name polystyrene foam board, also known as foam board or EPS board

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