• Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material System 1
  • Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material System 2
  • Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material System 3
Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material

Rubber Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Composited Bubble Material

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

 

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

 

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on

 

 

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

 

 

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

STRUCTURE

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL

MPET /BUBBLE/MPET

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

THICKNESS

1-4mm

8mm

6.5mm

4mm

4mm

WEIGHT

120GSM

240GSM

180GSM

120GSM

445GSM

BUBBLE SIZE

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM

WIDTH

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY

0.034w/mo

0.032 w/mo

0.032w/mo

0.034w/mo

5.87m2.k/w

REFLECTIVITY

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

 

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulationis one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

 

Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
Q: the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
Sawdust is a definite possibility. It is highly toxic and an appropriate mask should always be worn when sawdust is present. Sawdust is a proven carcinogen. Depending on the type of insulation you used, it may contain chemicals (e.g. formaldehyde) or particulates (fiberglass) that can be irritating to the throat, lungs and/or nasal sinuses. Bottom line: be sure to wear an appropriate mask in the future. They are available at most hardware and all wookworking stores. Best wishes and good luck.
Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Q: please help..
too add to that housing insulation wouldnt help you with dampening it would make it worse by absorbing the sound, try talking through a pillow for example/
Q: My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
welcome to the wonderful world of cheap, temporary roofing. you've just described a metal roof perfectly. bob, tell em what he's won! a lifetime supply of more bad decisions! also, the ugliest roof in town! but best of all, everyone who drives by his home will know he's a bandwagon kind of guy, he doesn't educate himself and do what's wise, he does what everyone else is doing! can't wait till that crowd finds that cliff they've been lookin for!!!
Q: Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
should work, heat pumps pull the heat out of the air,
Q: I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.
Q: House is a bi-level. Recently added storm windows to deck off dining room. Having a new rubber roof installed would like to know if we can insulate ceiling to make the room warmer. What product do you suggest we use. we are getting conflicting answers, some say you can insulate others say the ceiling needs to breath having a rubber roof install. Please advise.
Your other answerer is correct. The little plastic pieces that he speaks of are sometimes called baffles. They look like they are corregated or wavy like the inside of cardboard. These are essential to letting air flow in the attic space. Another item that you must have are vents on the soffits or overhangs on either side of the roof. Air has to get in there somehow. There are alot of homes that are not ventilated properly and the roof decking or plywood gets discolored and rots from the inside out. Sometimes this can happen in as little as 5 years, depending on your geographical location. Rubber roofing is usually put on a flat roof system. If you do not have access to inside the framing, you cannot insulate or it will be very difficult to get insulation in there properly. There are so many variables with different houses and locations. You may want to ask an insulation expert from the phone book or even a home inspector. Good luck.
Q: attic insulation
Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
Q: We have plenty down at the center, so many, you can carpet a garden. So, since I'll have to tear down the roof and improve the insulation in a few months, I was thinking of adding one extra layer... of emergency blankets. Since they can reflect the sun's heat up, and the heat under it down, will they do that for a whole house? Will the plastic film cause water condensation? If you wouldn't recommend it, then what would you recommend?
They may help, but as thin as they are, installing them would be about as easy as putting socks on a rooster!

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