• Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 18 System 1
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 18 System 2
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 18 System 3
Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 18

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 18

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
I agree with the soundness of every part of your plan EXCEPT not removing the original shingle roof. The shingle roof is already at the end of its usable life. There’s no benefit to covering up old problems, and they will most likely affect the durability of the new roof. Plus, removing the old roof gives you the opportunity to inspect and repair any issues with the roofing deck. Your new insulation and metal roof will attach better and perform better by removing the old shingle roof.
Q:p/t deck on a commercial rubber roof do we need closed cell insulation under deck to protect rubber?
Membrane roofs should not have any sharp edges putting pressure on it. Even a flat square board will sink into the material and the edges are where the problem begins. We put layers of thick tar pads 3/4" under the feet of the air handlers years ago and still no problem.
Q:what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?
The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.
Q:do i have to have insulation in my roof?
I think about 80% of heat loss during cold weather is through the ceiling and into the attic in an uninsulated home. So if you mean should your attic be insulated...yes. It will pay for itself in fuel savings and make your home more comfortable.
Q:My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
You really need a correct "building paper" under the iron. It is aluminum with a tar sandwiched between...You can also use plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier..
Q:I am building a porch roof over an existing patio. The rafters are fabricated I-beams. I plan on putting aluminum soffit under the I-beams. On top of the roof I would like to put down a metal roof. I already put down 3/4" OSB and a rain/ice barrier. Do I need insulation and/or ventilation on top of the rain and ice barrier, or can I get away without it?
Its a outside patio, are you going to enclose it for living space? If not don't bother to insulate and for ventilation there is soffit that comes with vent holes in it. Add; no it will not cause a moisture problem, i had a patio with a open bottom metal roof and had no problems and i live in Florida.
Q:Have a patio with metal roof, gets very hot during summer. Will Great Stuff insulate and stick to hot roof during summer? Thanks
Great Stuff (and similar products) stick to just about anything...and with vengeance. If you haven't used it ever, DO NOT let it get on anything else: it is the nastiest. To your Q; It's possible to cut this stuff after it dries up, but still would look like crap. Get some sheets of 'blue board' (an extruded polystyrene) and cut it to fit around structural members. Cuts with a hand saw, knife, and is easy to work. There's a glue for it but I haven't used it on all surfaces. It would look far better than Great Stuff alone.
Q:I would like to know which direction the one side with foil faces. The roof or the interior of the room?This is an attic room. Roof being "raw" i mean that it looks like cedar tongue in groove boards...then shingles on top of them. Which way do i face the foil side of the sheet..?thanx
The foil side should go to the outside. I believe it's a moisture barrier.
Q:Above the trailer roof is a metal pitched roof with no soffit and lots of air-flow. I plan to recess the insulation 6" to allow airflow. There is a suggestion that I need a vapor barrier. If I use a vapor barrier, won’t water collect between the roof and the barrier. I was thinking if using strapping crosswise every 4” to act as a channel for water runoff. Any ideas?
your plan is good ...
Q:Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
The best insulation that you will find is R15 fiberglass that is installed inside the attic between the roofing rafters. It's twice as thick as R12 which goes behind wall paneling. If you're talking about roofing shingles, they don't really act as insulation but architect shingles last the longest.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords