Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 24
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Bubble Insulation Benefits:
Reflects 96% of radiant heat
Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic
Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install
Durable and lightweight
Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate
Vapor and radon retarder
Easy to cut and install
Permanent and maintenance-free
Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents
Does not support the growth of mold or mildew
Not affected by moisture or humidity
Lowers heating and cooling costs year round
Bubble Foil Application:
Metal & Steel Buildings
Homes
Roof Underlayments
Cathedral Ceilings
Crawl Spaces
Hot Water Heaters
Basement Walls
Floors
Garage Doors
Concrete slabs
Driveway snow melts
Pole barns
Post frame buildings
Poultry barns
Animal kennels
Temperature sensitive storage areas
Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:
Material Structure: AL/Bubble/AL | ||
Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size | ||
Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized ) | ||
Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized) | ||
PROPERTIES | TEST DATA | UNIT |
Thickness | 3.5-4 | mm |
Weight | 250 | g/m2 |
Emissivity | 0.03-0.04 | COEF |
Thermal conductivity | 0.034 | w/m0 |
Apparent Density | 85 | kg/m3 |
Reflectivity | 95-96 | % |
Water Vapour Transmission | 0.013 | g/m2kpa |
Corrosion | doesn't generate | |
Tensile Strength(MD) | 16.98 | Mpa |
Tensile Strength(TD) | 16.5 | Mpa |
- Q: I would like to find foam type tiles for my roof of decking, insulation?
- www.okorder I checked the website I posted by searching 'foam roofing' on google. This link is what I found but there are others... Google it to find your best deal. I think I will spray this stuff under my pier and beam home just to insulate. Thanks for the tip! I can buy this product, apply it myself and cut the cost down to 1/3 or more.
- Q: Why is the most insulation needed in ceilings or roofs? Just wanted to know
- well insulation in general is to keep the inside temperature different than the outside. since hot air usually rises, i think it is to keep warm air form escaping in winter. also you don't usually have a heater in the attic, or air conditioning so insulation will keep the air in the attic from having an effect on the air within the house. that is my idea as to why
- Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
- Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
- Without important points related to what's between the roof and the ceiling below it, regardless of if it can be a one story or two story constitution; fast fix maybe relative? If for illustration,,,and that i have got to anticipate this, that some insulation exists in an attic, crawl space, and so forth. Then absolutely that must be checked for an "R" ranking, and decide to add or change. Possibly the "venting" variety fixtures usually mounted are either absent of now not strictly realistic. Perhaps historic time approaches like attic exhaust fanatics perhaps employed? What is the constitution of your roof to the point the place under roof vents, soffit and facia exist? Without figuring out the substance of the structure, IE: Block, body, and so forth., you could try to check if correctly the partitions are insulated, and strive exchange in that also. A extra ordinary repair, however absolutely now not rapid can be to have timber blocking and shading where the solar does strike the apartment. Windows within the direction of the solar can be tinted, as they provide no, actual insulating properties. Awnings over windows on the exterior might support in small measure. I are living in primary FL. And happen to very so much experience sun and warmness, however certainly it could actually reason financial budgetary issues. There are numerous methods you could attempt to block the sun, or insulate the apartment, and all is also legitimate, even along side the others, however speedy is, as I mentioned, relative to how much effort and money you have got to put into the effort. Steven Wolf Went back to CEMENT in the original. Is the ROOF cement as well? Is this in fact a "apartment" or apartment constructing? Is the "cement" "POURED" concrete panel building, or is it "block"?
- Q: Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?
- The warm air that collects in the attic is in close contact with the roof, heat is conducted through the roof and lost to the atmosphere.
- Q: i like to put a layer of sand in roofing instead of insulation. it's fireproof and insulates better. plus it's free. how much weight can ceiling board handle? I find about 15 inches poured into the roof works fine so far. Saves me about $1600 each house built
- first sand is very heavy and will probably exceed the loading on the roof and walls the extra reinforcing you would need to make the house SAFE would far outway any savings
- Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.
- Blown in is easier, cheaper and can be a DIY project. Just make sure you don't block the soffitts that allow air to circulate.
- Q: Tax Question: Itemized receipt for roofing and insulation?
- The roof would not be a tax deduction because it was part of your living area already and this is ordinary maintenance. But the insulation could have a local rebate or a general rebate involved.
- Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
- You could have foam roofing installed over the existing roof covering. Look up "foam roofing" on the Internet.
- Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
- i guess u mean attic insulation, it all depends on the type of ins u have, but why remove it ?, just add more on top..i'm not sure where ur located, the amt of ins depends on ur climate...here in Ontario, Canada, the code req's R40 for attics...but R32 is just as efficient
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Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 24
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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