• Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 24 System 1
  • Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 24 System 2
  • Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 24 System 3
Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 24

Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 24

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q:My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
Loose fill cellulose can be blown into your attic. I don't know if I understand the protrusions that you are describing but if you can freely blow the cellulose fiber into this space it should serve as a good insulation. You don't want to poke it in with a stick because you don't want to compress it. If you cannot blow this product directly into the space, you would be better off stuffing it lightly with fiberglass batting. Just don't cram it too tightly. It needs to be loose to be most effective.
Q:a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?
Not done properly.
Q:hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :)
I'm assuming that it's open at the ceiling.You could put in a drop ceiling to hold the heat further down.If it's damp you may want to make sure the area between the ceiling an roof are well ventilated.You could then place insulation on top of your drop ceiling so there's a barrier to hold down heat.
Q:weather stripping/ foam strip?
Those foam strips they sell you to go under the ridge caps will eventually dry out, blow out, and be hanging all over the place. Caulking won't fill a 5/8's gap to keep the wind/rain out, and tar has no place whatsoever on a metal roof, you'll get it all over everything, and either one will look like ****. The best ridge cap has to be custom made and cut to fit. I use a 12" wide X 10' strip, bent in half to pitch, and then turn down 90 degrees on the edges, whatever the rib height is, usually 5/8". Hold the ridge cap in place on the ridge and mark where the ribs are, then notch out for the ribs so that the cap sits flush over the ribs and down on the flats, punch holes and screw down thru the tops of the ribs. It's a little time consuming but it makes for a good looking finished product that won't wear out.
Q:Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
You can never have too much insulation, esp. in a roof. Heat rises, and a well-insulated roof helps with energy savings.
Q:Sorry, I asked this in the maintenance and repair section, but no luck.Which is better to have in a 2-story home? My last 2-story home was always hotter upstairs than down. (Physics...heat rises)
the best is more attic isolation so that the heat don't come directly to second floor.
Q:In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!
So there is no access above the ceiling, like a crawl space? If you cannot get above the ceiling to look then it will be difficult to determine, what you have or don't have up there. You may want to consult an insulation company for help. They may have ideas to blow in additional insulation. The spray foam that is on the link left by the other person is a foam sprayed on the roof decking and rafters when you have complete access to them. The person below me brings up another point, can you add any soffet vents to help with air flow?
Q:Should a two story home have insulation under the roof in the big closets ?
yea. it might cost you some to put it in but it will save you a lot in the future with heating and air conditioning bills
Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.
Q:How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?
323 square feet per cubic mile.

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