Flexible Ducts Roofing Insulation Fiberglass Panels

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Product Material

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

Product Feature

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

1.Size. (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color. (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission. transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance. performance can’t be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

flexible ducts

Q:Our end unit 1940&quot;s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?: We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.

Q:I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.: mold needs moisture to start/grow. find out why there's moisture and fix that first. Just creating more air flow won't stop the mold from growing and it won't necessarily make the air quality better if mold is growing in the walls. since you said it was roof insulation, (I'm gonna assume you meant attic) check the roof for leaks. I wouldn't think you'd have to get rid of all the insulation but I'd definately get rid of anything moldy. Blown in isulation is fairly cheap to replace. Lowe's sells a mold test kit, not sure how it works but I saw them yesterday when I was in there. Might be worth looking into getting one.

Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: The roof (assume pitched) doesn't need insulating it's above the attic above the ceilings of all the rooms that need 12 inch of mineral wool insulation to stop heat loss (you may have less thickness not all insulation is to the correct standards) Also if as I suspect the walls of your home are timber with shiplap (and not solid brick / cavity walls) they also require insulation top up. From a google search there is state wide Government grants for insulating homes, could be available in your state? using blown insulation to walls/ceilings. If you decide to install it yourself the payback is excellent -in 12 months depending on fuel cost and what existing insulation (from your description minimal) The landlord could be entitled to increase your lease costs if he takes the work on as he has greatly improved the thermal insulation which will reduce your heating costs and make his property more valuable to lease.

Q:on a traditional pitched roof construction,where is heat insulation usually provided?: Generally, the insulation is blown in loose fiberglass to around 14 inches -- R 38, between the ceiling joists. Radiant barrier roof decking is often used in conjunction with this method, along with excellent attic ventilation to allow heat to escape. Sometimes, with foam insulation in new construction, the foam is installed between rafters, to create air conditioned attic. This is much more expensive, but if done right, can result in greatly lowered energy consumption. This method requires outside air having a way to get into the home, requires special AC and heat equipment, and if the wall insulation and window package aren't up to snuff, much of the effect is lost, resulting in wasted money -- tens of thousands of dollars, literally.

Q:We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a &quot;living in condition&quot; with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a &quot;spray-on&quot;insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :): The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.

Q:p/t deck on a commercial rubber roof do we need closed cell insulation under deck to protect rubber?: You don't need it to protect the rubberoid roof however considering the relatively low cost of the closed cell foam it would be cheap insurance to add it. A more pressing concern would be the drainage details.

Q:Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.: First you need to see if the foam is FIRE RATED. If you install the wrong foam on an interior surface, it is a building/fire code violation. That being said, I would use an adhesive like liquid nails to install it. Test the adhesive on a piece of foam first though to see if it melts the foam too much. If it does not. Spread the adhesive on the foam and press the foam in place. You can devise a holder to keep the foam sheets in place till the glue dries.

Q:I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP: All versions of insulation are largely air that is kept from moving - air is a good insulator if convection - movement of heated or cooled air due to changes of density - is prevented. This assumes that a vapor barrier and caulking prevent actual air movement through the wall when a wind is blowing. Some insulators are also poor conductors of heat so the connection between inside and outside that might occur is broken. As it happens, glass used in fiberglass and minerals used in rock wool are actually pretty good conductors of heat in solid form but as fine particles and flakes they don't conduct well from one strand/piece to the next.

Q:should thermal insulation ever be applied directly to the underside of a roof top?: yes its done all the time on metal buildings. works well but expensive.

Q:My boyfriend has just moved into a flat in a newly converted house. He's up in the loft, and has just discovered that the roof isn't insulated.Does the landlord have a legal obligation to insulate the roof?: To comply with UK building regulations all lofts must be insulated... Q22. How much loft insulation do I need? A22. To meet current Building Regulations you need 270mm of mineral wool insulation. 100mm between the ceiling joists and 170mm laid over the joists.

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