• Flexible Ducts Roofing Insulation Fiberglass Panels System 1
Flexible Ducts Roofing Insulation Fiberglass Panels

Flexible Ducts Roofing Insulation Fiberglass Panels

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Product Material

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

Product Feature

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

Q:Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?
You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
Q:We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.
Q:I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Most typically, it's a sprayed polyurethane foam system. Simple repairs can be made with a sealant, unless you need a section replaced.
Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
Q:the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
use a polythene sheet . i dont know about where u live but where i live we get very long and broad size thick polythene sheets to make shelter or the protect from rain . even poor ppl use it to make slums . they attach a sheet in bamboo and they bury half of that bamboo stick inside the ground and by arranging 4 of them like this in a square area they make a bamboo frame. then as i said they attach sheet and make temporary home but they live there for years.
Q:Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.
Q:My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
Loose fill cellulose can be blown into your attic. I don't know if I understand the protrusions that you are describing but if you can freely blow the cellulose fiber into this space it should serve as a good insulation. You don't want to poke it in with a stick because you don't want to compress it. If you cannot blow this product directly into the space, you would be better off stuffing it lightly with fiberglass batting. Just don't cram it too tightly. It needs to be loose to be most effective.
Q:i like to put a layer of sand in roofing instead of insulation. it's fireproof and insulates better. plus it's free. how much weight can ceiling board handle? I find about 15 inches poured into the roof works fine so far. Saves me about $1600 each house built
first sand is very heavy and will probably exceed the loading on the roof and walls the extra reinforcing you would need to make the house SAFE would far outway any savings
Q:fixing my room up and it gets hot in summer so i want to put some good insulation in the roof so what could i use?
If okorder / what they are finding, along with shingle manufacturers is the spray insulation is not allowing enough air movement in the attic to cool the shingles on the exterior of the house and the shingles are literally baking themselves on the roof! Now, if your room is not the attic and you are simply looking to add insulation to cut energy costs and change the temperature of the living space of your home- I would definitely go with the batten style (or roll) insulation- its an easy install, inexpensive and works really well.
Q:weather stripping/ foam strip?
I'm assuming your talking about a ridge cap normally you would seal it in with tar or polyurethane caulk and put your shingles over it

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