Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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Products Introduction:
Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.
Features
Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material
Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.
Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof
Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.
Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.
Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.
Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.
Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..
Product parameters
Item | Unit | Requirement | ||||
Medium density | High density | |||||
Density | g/cm3 | 1.2<D≤1.5 | 1.5<D≤2.0 | |||
Water absorption | % | ≤30 | ≤25 | |||
Non-combustibility | GB 8624-2006, grade A | |||||
wet expansion | % | ≤0.25 | ||||
Beding strength | dry | MPA | Strength grade class III | 20 | Strength grade class IV | 24 |
Saturation with water | 12 | 14 |
Applications
Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards
- Q: I just removed a top tile from my bathroom wall. It was about half way up and it was rounded at the top. Underneath is cement and it sticks out about an eight of an inch from the plaster wall above it. Anyone hear of this before. So the round tile at the top was covering the cement wall that stuck out. Not sure if it's just cement board I can can remove to the studs and put up more sheet rock. We plan on painting the walls and we were hoping we could get it flush. If not we'll use a chair rail to cover the offset.
- Your easiest bet is to skim coat over the rough surface of the old mortar using a 12 drywall taping knife or a cheap concrete trowel. You can purchase thinset mortar for this. Use some bonding agent liquid on the old concrete first - let dry and then trowel on the thinset over it. Put down some cardboard on the floor and keep mortar like a milk shake consistency. Do about a 3'x3' area then move to next space. Use a spray bottle with water to spray over completed areas after about 5 minutes and trowel again which blends in each area and makes a smooth trowel slide over the thinset. After it dries 24hrs. you can then glue 1/4 or 1/2 thick drywall to this now smoother surface. Now rip a pc of wood to fit against the upper wall and flush with new drywall. Glue and nail this level across the top of new drywall. Apply molding over this so it has 1/4 reveal on top and hangs over the drywall top joint. Caulk nice and neatly and paint. If you try and bust off the old concrete/thinset mortar from the wall you are going to get into a big mess. There may even be wire lathe embedded in the thinset mortar. Big mess
- Q: Do I have to put cement backer board down before laying ceramic tile or can I go over existing vinyl floor?
- you need backer board because the initial cement that you lay the tile with will not stick to vinyl. The vinyl is unstable and will not take the grout either - years later you will have cracking heaving mess. Also you need a level area and vinyl tends to buckle and so forth.
- Q: I am building a shower in the basement of a 50 year old house in Michigan. I am using cement board (backerboard) for the sides which I framed in. The back of the shower is the existing cement block wall. Can I apply the mortar and tile to the cement block wall just as I would for the cement board? Will there be any problems with it stinking? The wall will get chilly during the winter.
- I don't see a problem with that as long as you make sure you use a high quality water-proofer for the grout. I installed tile directly onto cement and it turned out well... I just made sure to use a lot of coats of water-proofer. Mine wasn't in a basement though, which is traditionally more damp and prone to mold, mildew, etc.
- Q: Why different buildings sound a lot worse?
- Block varieties are more, according to the functional division of load-bearing and non-load-bearing block. Commonly used blocks are mainly ceramic, fly ash, slag, sand and other concrete hollow and solid blocks; gypsum, calcium silicate and other blocks. The volume of the block wall varies with the weight of the wall. Surface density and clay brick wall similar to the load-bearing block wall, the sound insulation performance and clay brick wall is also close. Cement mortar Plastering Lightweight blocks filled with wall insulation performance, largely depends on the thickness of the wall surface plaster layer. Both sides of the wiping 15 ~ 20mm thick cement mortar after the volume is about 43 ~ 48dB, the surface density of less than 80kg / m2 light block wall insulation is usually below 40dB.
- Q: Can you put ceramic tile over wood floors? If yes I was told that it wouldnt stay, even with cement board.?
- It depends on what you mean by wood floors. If you are talking about placing the tile over an existing hardwood floor, then no the old floor is not a good foundation for the tile. If you are talking about placing the tile over a plywood subfloor, then yes, this is exceptable with most tile manufacturers.
- Q: Installation technology and process of external wall cement board
- Injection molding, foaming: then the slurry into the mold foam, foaming process for about 3-5 minutes; initial maintenance: after the completion of injection molding for several hours after the initial maintenance; stripping: foam foam insulation board to be completed Early cutting, with the initial strength can be stripping; cutting: with a certain strength of the foam insulation board blanks after stripping can be cut, cutting specifications according to the need to adjust the cutting blade; finished maintenance: foam cement insulation board maintenance Age should not be less than 7 days.
- Q: when installing cement boards on my bathroom walls is it ok to screw them on directly?
- Yes, you can screw them directly to the wall studs. That is the only way that they will have the proper support.
- Q: I have a small 4X2 area in which I need to re-tile. The area now is outdoors and is set inside of a concrete slab. Who ever installed the tiles before installed them like paver's where they backfilled the small area with sand (about 3). My question is can I use durock or another cement board to get a solid surface for tiling or do I need to refill the area with concrete? I don't know too much about concrete work which is why I am looking to use the cement boards.Thanks
- it won't last long
- Q: The reason I ask is b/c my boyfriend was supposed to tile the kitchen..he put down the cement board for it and assured me we bought enough clearance tile. I was unsure and measured, we don't. He has procrastinated and I don't know how to tile anyways, so I want to lay a different floor. BUT I don't want to just throw away this cement board(might learn to tile one day). Is there a type of flooring that could easily just be installed over top of the cement board?
- No flooring that I can think of that it be worth the extra expense to treat the cement board to apply flooring to. Most other flooring you can lay over standard sub floor. If you lay cement board down correctly, The seams need to be treat and the roughness of the cement board would need to be treat to lay any type of vinyl down. I suppose you could put a glue down wood over it since you are doing a kitchen but in most cases you can go directly over your sub floor. Over kill but it would work. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
- Q: I have a cement back porch/patio approx 5'x22' that I've decided to tile.I know...tile outside...touchy subject, except I got 20 inch tiles at a steal. Problem is, while doing a mock layout, I noticed that many areas on the surface are unlevel (the tile rocks). It difficult to identify every single unlevel spot so I can't patch. Any recommendations on leveling the whole thing? Someone mentioned use wonder board (thin cement board) as an overlay, but I believe you'll still have weak spots beneath.Anyone have a suggestion?
- how uneven is the slab. You can put a pretty thick layer of thinset adhesive and cover up some of the unevenness. If you put down a 1/2 inch of thinset around the bad spots will it stop the tile from rocking? the whole slab doesn't need to be even, but each tile needs to be even with the ones surrounding it
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Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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