• Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX System 1
  • Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX System 2
  • Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX System 3
  • Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX System 4
Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX

Water Resistant Cement Board CMAX

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Products Introduction:

Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.

Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..

Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium density

High density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<D1.5

1.5<D2.0

Water absorption

%

30

25

Non-combustibility

GB 8624-2006, grade A

wet expansion

%

0.25

Beding strength

dry

MPA

Strength grade class III

20

Strength grade class IV

24

Saturation with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards



Q: I am looking for 1/2inch cement board is 3x5 sheets. Where is the cheapest place to get it?? THANKS!?
GL Unless your a contractor and can get it at the local tile distributor HD or Lowes is your best bet. Just make sure you put it down according to manufactures specs.. ( Its the same for the American Tile Counsels)
Q: Does the cement board go over the lip of the tub, or does it sit on that lip?
it goes on top of that lip not over it tile goes over the lip make sure you have a gap between the tub and tile when setting a spacer will do. silicone the bottom row of tile to the tub after the tiles have been set and grout the rest I caulk the cement board to the lip when I install. Its over kill but adds a layer of safety Good luck
Q: Our contractor says green board is required for his corian shower because it is coved and waterproof. Is he right? The City says cement board is a new requirement because mold can get in. However, they will accept the manufacturers recommendation. We want to follow the building code.
Absolutely, spend $30 more and use cement board. As a builder, I always line the studs with plastic, which overlaps the shower pan, then screw cement board over the plastic overlapping the shower pan (usually PVC product), then use red guard to seal seams and screw holes, then apply thinset mortar for tile, or mastic for corian, then seal all joints with grout sealer. It's your house and your money...stick to your instincts.
Q: Then I have to install marble in replace of this tile. I have laid a lot of ceramic tile but I being told that marble is a real pain in the but. I just started my business and this will be my first big job. Please give me your input. I live in Denver Colorado. Thank you
Mexichik covered it for the most part, I'd like to add a few things though. If its a light colored tile, back butter the tile too. The trowel marks can show through if you don't. Also, you should seal the tile before you grout at least, but Its recommended to seal it before even installing it. It is a pain but thats why you get more money for installing stone. And be VERY careful, marble scratches so easy.
Q: why does concrete block crumble but driveways and sidewalk do not?I don't have a driveway so basically i want to build a flat portable surface, made out of cement that my jack-stand (for my car) can stand on so the jack-stand wont have to be put directly in the grass.I would need it for the time that i need to take the tires off. any suggestion?
Get a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood about 15 to 18 inches square and tack them together or a 2x10 or 2x12 board about 15 long for a jack base. That will support the weight of any car. If you use a cement slab it will be quite heavy, and also it might break. P.S. Please take a moment to award a Best Answer to one of those who answers your question. Not necessarily mine, but one of those who took their time to try to help.
Q: When I was replacing vanity in small bathroom, I discovered that old vanity was sitting on top of the wooden sub-floor while the rest of the floor (with ceramic tile) is about whole inch above the sub-floor. I'm planning to install tile (never did it before) and I've read that you attach cement backer board to sub-floor and use adhesive to attach tiles. However cement boards are sold in 1/2 thickness. What should I do to make whole sandwich (board, adhesive, tile) to be on the same level as rest of the tile floor? I'd much appreciate any suggestions! :)
Screw down a piece of 1/2 plywood to the subfloor and then screw down the cement board on top of that. If you are still a tad low you can always spread on a layer of thinset mortar to bring it up to the same height as the rest of the floor. Whenever I do a bathroom I always remove the vanity and tile under it just like the rest of the room. That way, everything is level and if you ever want to replace the vanity with a smaller one or a pedestal sink the floor is good to go. What I have found, and you have found too, is that most people are just too damned lazy to bother doing that.
Q: Cement fiber pressure plate, fiber cement pressure plate (FC board), cement asbestos board, mineral wool decorative plate. Are these all the same? Where are they used?
Product Specifications: 1200 * 2400 * (4-30) mm, 1200 * 1200 * (4-30) mm 1220 * 2440 * (4-30) mm Other specifications can be processed, custom.
Q: We have an older house (1957) that has 1 thick beams as a substrate floor. Currently, there is 1/2 plywood on top of the substrate floor. We are going to rip this up so that we can apply mortar to the substrate for leveling purposes. We would put the porcelain tile directly on top of the cement board.The guy at Home Depot (a former contractor) said we can just use 1/2 cement board directly on top of the substrate floor without a layer of plywood underneath. The substrate is old, but sturdy real-wood diagonal beams that lay on top of the joists. He said they are plenty strong and we don't really need to add a plywood subfloor if we use 1/2 thick cement board.What do you think? Do you think we could get away will laying down cement board on top of the substrate floor without plywood for added strength?Thanks!
If joists are spaced 24 inches then you need 1.5 inches of subfloor under the cement board. if joists are spaced 16 inches then you need 3/4 inches of sublfoor under the cement board Those are the generalities.
Q: What is the prc in the building?
PRC (Pore Reduced Cement) is a high-performance cement material, it is in the process, performance, use, etc. have many unique advantages
Q: What is the difference between cement calcium silicate board and cement fiberboard
Cement fiberboard, also known as fiber cement board. Is based on siliceous, calcium material as the main raw material, adding plant fiber, through the pulp, copy, pressure, curing from a new type of building materials. After the high-pressure production of cement fiber board, also known as fiber cement pressure plate, its performance is better than the non-pressurized cement fiber board. Fiber cement board length and width of the standard specifications are 1200 * 2400mm and 1220 * 2440mm, manufacturers can basically customize the length of 2000-2500mm, width of 1000-1250mm within any specifications, other specifications can be cut on this basis. Fiber cement cement board thickness of 2.5,3,3.5,4,5,6,8,9,10,12,15,18,20,24,25,30,40,60,90 mm, the strength of the manufacturers Can be customized within any thickness of 2.5-100mm. Thickness of 4mm or less known as ultra-thin plate, 4-12mm become a conventional plate, 15-30mm and above known as thick plate, 30mm or more known as the thick plate. No small press manufacturers can only produce 6-12mm ordinary cement board; general manufacturers can only produce 4-12mm conventional board, thick plate to do well, thick plate can not do; thickness 2.5-100mm can do the manufacturers The country is small. Cement fiber board is widely used, the sheet can be used for ceiling materials, perforation can be used as sound-absorbing ceiling. Conventional board can be used for wall and / or decorative materials, thick plate can be used as LOFT steel floor board, attic board, external wall insulation board, wall panels and so on.

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