TOP QUALITY GALZED TILE FROM FOSHAN CMAX 6692
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1325 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 10000000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
You Might Also Like
Key Specifications/Special Features of Glazed Tile :
1. Material: glazed porcelain
2. Antique feel, Metal Image
3. Low water absorption
4. Strong in hardness
5. Coordination in color and luster
6. Usage Area: home, office, hotel, government and corporate projects, flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring
7. Style: simple, classic, elegant and splendid in color
8. Good in abrasion and chemical corrosion-resistant
9. Resistance to thermal shock
10. Available in various sizes and colors
Primary Competitive Advantages of Glazed Tile:
1. All product of rustic ceramic tiles are of top grade AAAA
2. CE certificate, ISO9001:2008 and ISO14001:2004
3. OEM accepted.
4. Speial dimensions available according to your floor tiles request.
5. Best Quality with best price, strictly quality control.
6. On time delivery, in general 7-10days.
7. Best after sale service, customer can follow their porcelain tiles order situation any time. no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.
Main Export Markets:
1. Asia
2. Australasia
3. Central/South America
4. Eastern Europe
5. Mid East/Africa
6. North America
7. Western Europe
Specification:
Tile type: | Ceramic tile |
Material: | Porcelain |
Size(MM) : | 600x600mm |
Thickness(MM): | 9mm |
Water Absorption: | ≤0.5% |
Color: | Available in all designs and colors |
Usage: | Used in floor |
Surface treatment: | Glazed surface |
Features: | Professional triple-burning in oven, which makes our tiles more excellent quality. |
Function: | Acid-Resistant, Antibacterial, Heat Insulation, Non-Slip, Wear-Resistant, Anti-fouling easy to clean |
Packaging: | 600x600mm: 4pcs/box,28kg/box,standard cartons and wooden pallets packing |
Remark: | All kind of designs can be produced according to your requirements |
Quality | |
Surface quality: | 95% tiles no defect from 0.8 away uprightly |
Breaking strength: | As require |
Resistance to thermal shock: | Without crack and flaw after 10 times anti heat shock test |
Brightness: | ≥55 |
Frost-resistance: | No crack or spalling after frost resistance test |
Product Picture:
Packing Pictures
- Q: We are about to install 450 sq ft of 18x18 inch travertine tile on an indoor concrete floor and I need as much information about the installation process as possible. I have done a number of ceramic tile jobs, but never laid travertine. Some of the questions I have are:1. is it best to use spacers and grout, or butt the tiles?2. if I use spacers, what size should I use?3. should I apply a coat of sealer to the tiles before laying them?4. what size notched trowel should I use and at what angle?5. how many coats of sealer, brand and type of finish is recommended?6. I read somewhere that it is not recommended laying travertine straight, but in a Versailles pattern. Any one have any idea what this is?Does anyone have any more advice on laying this type of tile. Any advice will be deeply appreciated. Don
- This Site Might Help You. RE: Many questions about installing travertine tile? We are about to install 450 sq ft of 18x18 inch travertine tile on an indoor concrete floor and I need as much information about the installation process as possible. I have done a number of ceramic tile jobs, but never laid travertine. Some of the questions I have are: 1. is it best to use...
- Q: I have a new bathtub with Durock cement board installed around it and I‘m ready for tile. I just got a guy out to give me an estimate for doing the tile work around the tub and he said the Durock would have to be primed first. I‘ve heard you‘re supposed to put the tile directly on the Durock, not paint it. Now I don‘t know what to do. Is he wrong? If he‘s wrong, do I hire someone else or just question him? He did another (non-tile related) job for me and did an excellent job, so I trust him, but I‘m nervous about this. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
- Do NOT prime cement board before tiling. The whole reason is to bond to the cement substance of the Durock or cement board. There are times or situations that you need to water proof cement board , but that would be a different situation. I would consider hiring some one else. He may be fine at certain projects but he does not know allot about tiling. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: Last year I had my bathroom remodeled. I had a new tub and tile installed. I asked the tile man to put the tiles together and not to have grout lines. He insisted that they HAD to have grout. I told him to put in the smallest, narrowest grout line as possible. Well now the tile grout is looking yucky. I know how to clean it so that is not the question. I just want to know why do you have to have grout in the first place? If the tiles are pushed up against each other with the sides touching and then put in grout in the very small area. why would a professional tile man insist that it MUST have grout?
- Because you dont ant water to be able to get underneath the tiles. However, if you push them close together you can caulk the seams with a similar color caulk.
- Q: My parents want to re-tile their bathroom. My dad says he can use regular tiles in the bathroom, bathroom being the floor and the open-shower walls(the only thing stopping the water spillage is plastic and fabric on a rail), but my mom says it needs bathroom tiles and bathroom grout for the job. Any help would definitely be appreciated!!!
- There's no such thing as bathroom tiles or bathroom grout. You can use any kind of ceramic, glass, or porcelain tile in a bathroom. If you use something porous, like a natural stone, there are extra steps involved to make it waterproof. Also, if you are tiling the floor, don't use glass tiles (they will become scratched) or tiles that will become slippery when wet. The most important thing when tiling a bathroom is to prepare it well and don't skip any steps. All surfaces that are to be tiled must be covered with cement backer board. Tape and glue the seams and allow it to dry. Then, you can lay your tile and grout it. Make sure that you seal the grout! This is the step that many people forget and if you do forget it, your grout will be flaking off in a matter of months. Depending on which sealer you use, you may have to wait 1-3 days to use the bathroom after it is sealed. This allows the sealer to develop a water-tight surface. Also, don't grout corners. Corners should be caulked with bathroom caulk. The caulk allows the tiles to expand and contract with changes in temperature. If you just grout the whole thing, there's no room for the tiles to expand and contract and your grout can fracture. Good luck!
- Q: I have strip kitchen floor to sub floor. i am ready to install tiles. My question is: How to do the wet bed for laying ties later on.
- What is the sub floor made of??
- Q: We had to remove some tile and break out the wall behind our shower/bath wall in order to put in a new part for new fixtures. So, now we need to repair that portion of the wall (about 3‘x2‘) and re-tile it. Do we need to use greenboard (it looks like either that or just drywall was used originally) or cement board? Also, how do we join the new portion of backing to the old portion? When tiles are removed, they damage the old backing -- so I can‘t take off an extra row of tiles and then have that backer exposed in order to tape and put mortar over. Hubby says we can cut the backer to fit the opening, and then just go ahead and tile, and that the grout will effectively seam and waterproof those joints where the new backing meets the old tiled backing. Any suggestions?
- I am just real curious how you are going to hold the new backing in place. If you have that figured out I would suggest cement board. Sheet rock won't last and green board is little better. Use a clear sealent from the old to the new. (If you leave a little space - 1/8 inch or so, you can squeeze the sealent in.) Make sure non of the sealent is on the surface of either backer. Let it set for 48 hours. Tile and grout. My mother's folks all did tile work for a living. They would tell you to take the tile down for the entire wall and start over. In the long run, that is probably the best thing to do. Steven's answer was posted while I was writing. His recommendation and suggestions make great sense.
- Q: I am doing my bathroom slate and i need a bullnose tile. I special ordered it at Home Depot and now they are telling me it is discontinued. I was wondering if anyone new of a web site or store that i could order this from because my bathroom is supposed to be started Monday and Now i dont have the bull nose... please help??
- Check the manufacturer of the tile. They probably have a website and may be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck.
- Q: I have 12x12 field tile and a strip of accent that‘s about 2 high. Everything I‘ve read says that you want to have the accent at eye level, which makes sense to me. Judging for myself, it LOOKS best at eye level. If I place it at eye level, I wind up with a full 12x12 tile above it, or at least, a 12 space above it. So going down to the tub, I would have a 2 1/2 cut tile at the bottom, right above the tub.Everything I have read also says that you want to have the cut tiles at the top and bottom symmetrical.
- Provided the tub is fairly level, start a full tile at the bottom and work up. Tile will look fine at a 5 or six foot level ( I prefer 5 ft.) Not every one has the same eye level so the strip will be fine. The tub surround will be a bit different too so what I suggest is measuring on the tub wall the tile heights and stand back and look at it. Use a pc of tape the approx width of the strip and tape it or draw it on the tub wall s prior to tiling. Will give you a better idea. Also take into account any fixtures you may put in such as a shampoo/soap shelf. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. I ve also have down 100s of tub surrounds. GL
- Q: Once I removed the old tiles is there anything else I should do before I lay the new ones?
- It should be ok as long as you sweep it and mop it.
- Q: Yesterday I bought tile from menards and they are sticky on the backs of them, my question is do I need to use other glue as well? If so what kind of glue?
- Peal and stick tile need no other type of glue. If fact , another glue may react to the glue on the tile. These work best when installed on new clean ply wood surface. A surface that hasn t been sealed by other glues or other substances. Best to use a heavy roller to help embed the glue on the back of the tile into the new surface. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar.GL
Send your message to us
TOP QUALITY GALZED TILE FROM FOSHAN CMAX 6692
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1325 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 10000000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
