Steel Bar Welded Mesh

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1. Product Description:

Steel mesh and said: welded steel mesh, welded mesh, welded wire mesh, welded wire mesh, steel mesh, etc.. Is the longitudinal and transverse reinforcement of a certain distance, and each other into a right angle, all the cross points are welded together in the network.

Steel mesh used in industrial and civil buildings beam floor, roof, wall, concrete pavement, bridge deck pavement, airport runway, tunnel lining, box culvert, dock floor, prefabricated units, and other fields.

2. Product Characteristic:

1. Significantly improve the engineering quality of steel

2. Obviously improve the construction speed

3. Reinforced concrete anti cracking ability

4. Have better comprehensive economic benefits

1. QUALITY：

GB/T1499.3-2002

AS/NZS 4671：2001
BS 4483︰2005
A185-02

2. RAW MATERIAL：

A．cold-rolled deformed bar GRADE:CRB550

B．hot-rolled deformed bar GRADE:HRB400

3.Specification ：

size		4-16
size		4-16
Reinforcement spacing(mm)	Portrait	100、150、200、300
Reinforcement spacing(mm)	Landscape	100-400
Mechanical and process property		Meet “GB/T1499.3-2002” standard;AS/NZS 4671; 2001,BS 4483:2005,A185-02

Mesh size(mm)	wide	max 3300，By transportation limited：trucks≦2350；train≦2750
Mesh size(mm)	long	≦12000

4. Reference Picture:

Steel Bar Welded Mesh

Q:We are replacing an older style submersible 3 wire well pump with a newer style 3 wire plus ground. I do not know where to ground the green wire? Is it necessary to extend the wire from the pump all the way to the top and ground it there or can i just ground it to the pump itself? Any ideas? First time home owner... trying to save money and not call an electrician (Im an avionics technician so I have some what of an idea what im doing.) Thanks: It shouldn't be grounded to back to the pump, it should be brought out and grounded either with the house or a separate grounding rod.

Q:You have been given two samples of wire: one nichrome, one aluminum. Describe a procedure you could use to determine which sample was nichrome and which was aluminum: first, knowing the resistance of each wire (i dont know it, you need to look it up) i would set up a circuit to put out [X] amt of current (the amt of the lowest resistance in the wires) and run the current thru the wires to a light bulb. if the bulb doesnt light, you now have figured out that this is the wire with the most resistance (again i dont know which has a higher one) for clarification- aluminum resistance = X nichrome resistance = y circuit with current EQUAL to resistance of the lowest wire (for example if X was lowest with 3 ohms, you would set the current to however many amps/volts are required to overcome that) and then connect it to a bulb. when its turned on, if the bulb doesnt light, you have determined that it isnt wire X but wire Y. even more simply, just list the wires by their resistance. if X=3 ohms, Y= 4 ohms, and the bulb doesnt light at 3, you have determined that its wire Y. im assuimng you would have the resistance of the wires? this is how i would do it, but if thats the right way? i dunno. but it is one way.

Q:circuit breakers,equipment,wire,or people: A fuse protects wire from an overload of ampacity, this can prevent fires and it prevents shorts in the system as well. So if you have a short it protects the equipment as well as wire but it can protect people from fires if there is short and a fire. so in essence of your question it protects all of the above in way or another. Some breakers in some cases are protected by a fuse such as in motor or motor controls as well. There are several different type of fuses in the feid today form ow voltage to high voltage fuses and different types too.

Q:the quot;rite-tempthermostat was ripped from the wall, and the brown wire, and red wires - both not labled are disconnected...where do they connect? please help....rite-temp thermostat model 8050c: The Green wire generally is fan The red wires are hot to the AC and Heater The yellow wire is AC The white wire is common. Brown may be used for AC instead of red Hook the Green to the G terminal The Red wire to the Rh terminal The brown wire, I believe is Rc terminal White to W OR c (HOW EVER IT'S LABELED) Yellow to Y

Q:I need a wiring diagram for a 1983 honda rebel, its a 250cc parallel twin, i really need the ignition wiring diagram but i can't seem to find one. If anyone knows the letters (xx250,xx125) then that would help to. Thank you in advance.: Not to be rude, but that bike only has about 4 wires. What do you need to know?

Q:What silk is fine as hair, soft as wool, strong as steel?: Characteristics of molybdenum wire:Ultra high tensile strength;It has high surface finish, good stability and high cutting accuracy;Elongation rate is small, tight silk is small;The winding rate is large, the wire diameter is uniform, it is difficult to break the wire, and the service life is long;Increase the high frequency power and improve the rough machining efficiency;The accurate measurement, vacuum packaging, prevent oxidation mildew, can be stored for a long time.Remember, the smallest one is only half a millimeter. It's very, very thin. One second you can cut down 1 trees. Of course, it depends on whether the equipment supports it!

Q:I need to know about the fuseable link. and or wiring diagrams.: depending on how it was set up to the solenoid, you could have two or three wires, including the battery cable. that large wire goes from the b terminal on the starter to the battery positive. there is also an i terminal on some, that is a wire that goes from that terminal to the ignition coil indirectly for a full 12 volts or close to it while cranking. the last terminal should be the s terminal. it goes back to the ignition switch.if you only get a single solid click, i think the solenoid is a good potential for the problem. if you pull that off and remove the plastic cover at one end, you will find the moving contact section. either flip that copper piece around or use a fine file or sand paper to clean it up along with the contacts in the cap itself. after all of that is clean, reassemble and bench test it before you reinstall it. if it cranks over well and at high enough a speed, then install it. if not, check the battery and then maybe have the starter tested at a shop. if you reinstall it and it still only gives you a solid click, then see if you can crank the engine over with a socket on the crank. bolt. if that does not work, then pull all of the plugs and try again.

Q:I was re-wiring a light switch and a fan control knob and I accidentally cut a wire too short. This wire comes out the front of the fan dial and goes around to the back, connecting to another wire, thus placing a wire nut impossible. Can I just link the two ends together, then seal it with electrical tape? Or do I have to buy a new fan dial (which will cost $25, a cost I'm trying to avoid)? Will just the tape be safe enough?: No they are NOT absolutely necessary, however the typical DIY'er does not have the skills or the tools to make a splice the old fashioned way. You can solder the two wires together after twisting them together in line and then cover them with shrink wrap. If you know what I am talking about and have the tools then wire nuts are not absolutely necessary, however if you do not have a clue how to do this or the necessary tools are then yes wire nuts are necessary. Just twisting them together and wrapping the connection with tape is not a good way to go.

Q:What's the thickness, or measurement for the last or thickest wire?: some people have just a thin wire that's called a chain(its pretty much any colour you want elastic that stretches from one side to the other), some have a metal chain which is a lot thicker. it all depends on your teeth.

Q:ok so i have a power acoustik ov2-2200 amp right now and all my wires are working fine with this amp....i am going to buy a lanzar MXA282 which is more wattage (RMS)Do i need to get any new wires to hook this amp up? like the power ground or remote wires? thx... sorry for my ignorance :/: What size wire do you have now? You will most likely have to upgrade your power wire with that new amp. It is rated at 2000w RMS of total output so that would mean you would need a 1/0 gauge wire. All you need to upgrade is the power wire and the ground wire. The remote wire or RCA won't need to be upgraded. You will also probably need to get a new fuse box for the larger wire. If you get an amp kit you can get everything you need. Good Luck!!!

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