• Double Side Aluminum Foil Woven Fabric Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment System 1
  • Double Side Aluminum Foil Woven Fabric Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment System 2
  • Double Side Aluminum Foil Woven Fabric Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment System 3
Double Side Aluminum Foil Woven Fabric Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment

Double Side Aluminum Foil Woven Fabric Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
8000 m²/month

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This is a new environmentally friendly aluminum foil bubble heat insulation material, which is soft, light and easy to install. It is made from aluminum foil and polyethylene through special machinery.

Function:

Can be installed on roof, wall or floor, resist over 80% external heat from buildings, protect wall, resist thermal shock and sudden cold, etc.

Characteristics:

1.No odor and toxicity, environmentally- friendly;

2.Moisture barrier, sun-proof, waterproof, good sealing property, heat preservation, energy saving…

3.Heat reflection, heat insulation, sound insulation, anti-radiation, anti-vibration, and shielding;

4.Light, soft, dust free, fire retardant, easy to install;

5.Summer: moisture barrier, sun-proof, heat insulation, saving energy consumed by cool air conditioning ;

6.Winter: heat preservation, central heating saving, and remarkable energy-saving effect.

Product: fireproof material

Technical parameters:

Material structure: AL/woven /AL


weight: 0.13 KG/M2

Roll size: 1.2M W*40M L (can be customized)

PROPERTIES

Test Data

Unit

Thickness

3.5

MM

Weight

256

G/M2

Emissivity

0.115

COEF.

Thermal conductivity

0.034

W/M0

Apparent Density

85

KG/M3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

G/M2 KPA

Corrosion

Doesn't generate


Tensile strength (MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile strength (TD)

16.5

Mpa


Usage:
1. Roof, wall, floor;
2. Shells of air conditioner and water heater;
3. Protective coatings of water pipe and ventilating pip



Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?
You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
Visit your local Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot. Buy a caulking gun and a few tubes of industrial grade adhesive from their large selection. Read the label and choose an adhesive that mentions both plastic and metal. (If I were doing it, I would try some silicon on the Styrofoam and if it doesn't melt, use silicon, but there are dozens of different adhesives on the shelves.) Once you have the right adhesive, cut the foam to fit snugly between the roof members, and stick them up. To cover the Styrofoam, use any lightweight material you can find. I would try to find wall paper that simulates barn-board. (I have seen it somewhere.) Just apply a coat of wallpaper sizing to the Styrofoam first to give the wallpaper glue something to stick to. Most wallpapers already have the glue on the back; you just run it thru water to wet it. I use a large paint roller tray with a piece of stiff wire across it. Then I drop my cut to length strip of paper in the deep end of the tray and pull it thru under the wire. Have fun. Honey
Q: i like to put a layer of sand in roofing instead of insulation. it's fireproof and insulates better. plus it's free. how much weight can ceiling board handle? I find about 15 inches poured into the roof works fine so far. Saves me about $1600 each house built
first sand is very heavy and will probably exceed the loading on the roof and walls the extra reinforcing you would need to make the house SAFE would far outway any savings
Q: I have read in some articles about roofing that it is recommended to use attic roof insulation in ones roofing. Is this true?
here in the uk not only is it necessary ..its the law ..under building control up to 250mm 10" of fibreglass is needed ...it keeps house warm in winter and cool in summer
Q: The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?
u can buy blow in insulation. I think Home Depot even lets you rent the blower machine free if you buy a certain amount of bags of the insulation.
Q: Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
Aluminum is a good resister to thermal flow, but its primary characteristic is to stop the transfer of air. A solid barrier of aluminum will stop air movement, and will reflect heat back. A drawback is that it must be installed in a way so that no air can move through any cracks. Blown in fiberglass is your best bet. Trapped air is what insulates a space. Cellulose settles with gravity after a period of time, the fiberglass does not settle, traps more air, and can have a resistance value of up to 33. A well-insulated attic will keep you warm in winter, and keep the hot attic air from infiltrating your home in summer.
Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
i guess u mean attic insulation, it all depends on the type of ins u have, but why remove it ?, just add more on top..i'm not sure where ur located, the amt of ins depends on ur climate...here in Ontario, Canada, the code req's R40 for attics...but R32 is just as efficient
Q: Above the trailer roof is a metal pitched roof with no soffit and lots of air-flow. I plan to recess the insulation 6" to allow airflow. There is a suggestion that I need a vapor barrier. If I use a vapor barrier, won’t water collect between the roof and the barrier. I was thinking if using strapping crosswise every 4” to act as a channel for water runoff. Any ideas?
your plan is good ...
Q: Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
No. The shingles are applied directly to the decking (over felt paper). Nailing through rigid insulation will either cause dips from driving the occaisional nail too far, or the shingles won't be nailed down tight and will blow off in the wind. Insulate under the decking.

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