Single core for low smoke, non-halogen flame retardant

Single core for low smoke, non-halogen flame retardant

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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The low smoke non-halogen single core wire is manufactured according to the standards of GB/T5023-2008, GB/T19666-2005, GB/T17650-1998, GB/T17651-1998, GB/T18380-2001 and the design and manufacture.

Single core low smoke halogen flame retardant wire and cable is mainly used for engineering and construction, subway, nuclear power plants ,as well as crowded places the integrated wiring, and electrical equipment within the power and signal connections.

Type

Designation

Alternative Model

WDZD-RY

The low smoke non-halogen polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring with soft wire

ZR/DW-RE

WDZD-BY

The low smoke non-halogen polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring

ZR/DW-BE

WDZD-RYJ

The low smoke, non-halogen crosslinking polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring with soft wire

ZR/DW-RYJ

WDZD-BYJ

For low smoke, non-halogen crosslinking polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring

ZR/DW-BYJ

Note: If is class B, C flame retardant, as long as the replacement in the corresponding model D is B, C, can be.

Type	Specifications mm²	Conductor		Nominal thickness			Outer diameter
Type	Specifications mm²	n/mm	Outer Diameter	300/500V	450/750V	0.6/1kV	300/500V	450/750V	0.6/1kV
WDZD-RY WDZD-RYJ	0.5	16/0.20	0.92	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.12	2.32	2.52
	0.75	24/0.20	1.13	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.33	2.53	2.73
	1	32/0.20	1.31	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.51	2.71	2.91
	1.5	30/0.25	1.58	-	0.7	0.8		2.98	3.18
	2.5	49/0.25	2.02	-	0.8	0.9		3.62	3.82
	4	56/0.30	2.59	-	0.8	0.9		4.19	4.39
	6	84/0.30	3.60	-	0.8	1.0		5.20	5.60
	10	84/0.40	4.80	-	0.8	1.0		6.40	6.80
	16	126/0.40	5.88	-	1.0	1.2		7.88	8.28
	25	196/0.40	7.33	-	1.2	1.4		9.73	10.13
	35	276/0.40	9.20	-	1.2	1.4		11.60	12.00
	50	396/0.40	11.02	-	1.4	1.6		13.82	14.22
	70	360/0.50	13.13	-	1.4	1.6		15.93	16.33
WDZD-BY WDZD-BYJ	0.5	1/0.80	0.80	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.00	2.20	2.40
	0.75	1/0.97	0.97	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.17	2.37	2.57
	1	1/1.13	1.13	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.33	2.53	2.73
	1.5	1/1.37	1.38	-	0.7	0.8		2.78	2.98
	2.5	1/1.76	1.76	-	0.8	0.9		3.36	3.56
	4	1/2.24	2.25	-	0.8	0.9		3.85	4.05
	6	1/2.73	2.76	-	0.8	1.0		4.36	4.76
	10	7/1.33	4.05	-	0.8	1.0		5.65	6.05
	16	7/1.70	5.10	-	1.0	1.2		7.10	7.50
	25	7/2.12	6.42	-	1.2	1.4		8.82	9.22
	35	7/2.50	7.56	-	1.2	1.4		9.96	10.36
	50	19/1.78	8.90	-	1.4	1.6		11.70	12.10
	70	19/2.12	10.70	-	1.4	1.6		13.50	13.90

Q: I have just bought the above SSD product and don't know what connection I need for power, I have a SATA cable but the other long slot doesn't fit any of my power adapters, what do I need?: You can use splitters.

Q: So I've had my laptop for about a year and a half now and I've gone through 4 power cables, 3 non-factory. What happens with each one is, I plug it in, the blue light surrounding the hole turns on, the end of the power cable that plugs into my laptop gets super hot and either melts the power cable, or when I plug the cable in, the light won't come on unless I have it in just right. This usually starts to happen between one and three months after I get a new cable. It's starting to go through them faster now, any ideas?: you have a power short in the computer that's why it is getting to hot and melting the cables, get it seen to immediately

Q: can i use this to power a pcie x16 card in a pcie x1 slot: That depends on what you mean by 'power'. You can use it to connect a PCIe x16 card to a PCIe x1 slot but it'll only have one PCIe lane connected, meaning that the interface will only have 1/16th of the bandwidth. That's fine for something like using a graphics card to mine Litecoin but not for gaming. As for powering it, if the card uses a lot of power so has external power connectors like a graphics card then you still need to connect those, if it normally runs without an extra power cable then it'll be fine. You'll notice that most of the reviews there are from people who were building Bitcoin/Litecoin mining rigs. When doing that the graphics cards are working flat out but there's not a lot of data being sent through the interface so a x1 interface is fine, when gaming the interface has to carry a lot more information so this would really slow it down. It would be fine for just providing a way to plug in a cheap graphics card to provide a second display for normal 2D use though but its 3D performance would suffer.

Q: The power supply in question is: Yep they will come with a power cord

Q: The power cable is selected according to the cable current (): The copper core grinding first to the copper core on the flux (rosin or solder paste)

Q: Can anyone tell me the best place to run the power cable for my amp from the battery through the firewall? (2000 Chevy Impala): Look for where the factory wire harness goes through. there's usually enough room to cut or drill a whole and pass your power wire through. If not, you'll have to make your own hole in a safe place.

Q: I just got done building my new computer, and am putting in my cd-room's.When i plug in the power to them they will open, but when i connect them to the motherboard with the ide cable they wont open.And yes i have everything plugged in right.: did you try a different CD rom? might just be broken.

Q: NO power convertor needed? I can go straight from AT to ATX?: You are confused between AT and ATX. As described by pdl756 the power connections are different and two plugs. Another big difference was the AC went from the PSU to the Start switch on the P.C case and back to the PSU for switch on. AXT started with a 20 pin power plug and later to a 24 pin power plug. Your link shows that converter from 20 to 24 pin but it was not needed for long because PSU manufacturers provided a 20 plug plus a 4 pin clamp on extension

Q: I recently got YLOD on my ps3 (60g fat) system ,sent it away ,got it back with a new mainboard ,it worked for about 2 days and it cut out (red lights blinking) once again i sent it away ,got it back and it cut out within a few hours (red lights blinking again ) ,so one last repair i sent it off to same shop ,and once again it worked for about a week then cut out on me again ! ,is there any possibility its my power cable to my ps3 thats doing this ?: Could be your household voltage is blowing the Motherboard try getting a low voltage transformer it plugs into the socket and lowers the voltage because most household voltages are set to a specific Watt so it can run big things like T.V's Microwaves etc. I see you are in the US so it rules out the possibility of a broken fuse. When it cuts out do any of the trip switches trip on the main electric panel? If so then your only option is to buy a transformer. I would ask the shop where you take it first though. Hope I helped

Q: Where can I buy a replacement power cable for my ps3? I can't find one anywhere.?: Unless you are using a laptop, you are a few feet away from one. Look behind your pc. There it is! That's right, the ps3 uses the exact same kind of power cable as desktop pc's. You might have an extra one laying around somewhere. My ps3 originally shipped with an ungrounded power cable, and I had to replace it with a pc cable. Use the grounded power cables pc's always have.

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