Single core for low smoke, non-halogen flame retardant

Single core for low smoke, non-halogen flame retardant

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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The low smoke non-halogen single core wire is manufactured according to the standards of GB/T5023-2008, GB/T19666-2005, GB/T17650-1998, GB/T17651-1998, GB/T18380-2001 and the design and manufacture.

Single core low smoke halogen flame retardant wire and cable is mainly used for engineering and construction, subway, nuclear power plants ,as well as crowded places the integrated wiring, and electrical equipment within the power and signal connections.

Type

Designation

Alternative Model

WDZD-RY

The low smoke non-halogen polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring with soft wire

ZR/DW-RE

WDZD-BY

The low smoke non-halogen polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring

ZR/DW-BE

WDZD-RYJ

The low smoke, non-halogen crosslinking polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring with soft wire

ZR/DW-RYJ

WDZD-BYJ

For low smoke, non-halogen crosslinking polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring

ZR/DW-BYJ

Note: If is class B, C flame retardant, as long as the replacement in the corresponding model D is B, C, can be.

Type	Specifications mm²	Conductor		Nominal thickness			Outer diameter
Type	Specifications mm²	n/mm	Outer Diameter	300/500V	450/750V	0.6/1kV	300/500V	450/750V	0.6/1kV
WDZD-RY WDZD-RYJ	0.5	16/0.20	0.92	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.12	2.32	2.52
	0.75	24/0.20	1.13	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.33	2.53	2.73
	1	32/0.20	1.31	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.51	2.71	2.91
	1.5	30/0.25	1.58	-	0.7	0.8		2.98	3.18
	2.5	49/0.25	2.02	-	0.8	0.9		3.62	3.82
	4	56/0.30	2.59	-	0.8	0.9		4.19	4.39
	6	84/0.30	3.60	-	0.8	1.0		5.20	5.60
	10	84/0.40	4.80	-	0.8	1.0		6.40	6.80
	16	126/0.40	5.88	-	1.0	1.2		7.88	8.28
	25	196/0.40	7.33	-	1.2	1.4		9.73	10.13
	35	276/0.40	9.20	-	1.2	1.4		11.60	12.00
	50	396/0.40	11.02	-	1.4	1.6		13.82	14.22
	70	360/0.50	13.13	-	1.4	1.6		15.93	16.33
WDZD-BY WDZD-BYJ	0.5	1/0.80	0.80	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.00	2.20	2.40
	0.75	1/0.97	0.97	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.17	2.37	2.57
	1	1/1.13	1.13	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.33	2.53	2.73
	1.5	1/1.37	1.38	-	0.7	0.8		2.78	2.98
	2.5	1/1.76	1.76	-	0.8	0.9		3.36	3.56
	4	1/2.24	2.25	-	0.8	0.9		3.85	4.05
	6	1/2.73	2.76	-	0.8	1.0		4.36	4.76
	10	7/1.33	4.05	-	0.8	1.0		5.65	6.05
	16	7/1.70	5.10	-	1.0	1.2		7.10	7.50
	25	7/2.12	6.42	-	1.2	1.4		8.82	9.22
	35	7/2.50	7.56	-	1.2	1.4		9.96	10.36
	50	19/1.78	8.90	-	1.4	1.6		11.70	12.10
	70	19/2.12	10.70	-	1.4	1.6		13.50	13.90

Q: I purchased a LCD TV the other day and ran a cable line to it (via crawl space). I had to use a splitter to connect the new TV. I connected the cable directly to the TV and then the power cable to the outlet which “popped” and the power went out (breaker trips). I connect the TV power cable to a surge protector and the power goes out again (surge protector wasn’t even on). So I disconnect the cable from the tv and connect the power. Everything is fine until I try and connect the cable...let’s just say the spark was bright and hot enough to melt part of the connector on the TV! So I return the TV and get a different brand and the same thing happens when I plug it into a surge protector. To begin narrowing out possible problems I connect the cable to a regular 10 year old TV with no problems. It is a brand new cable with no cuts or fraying. Any suggestions?: Something is seriously wrong, and you may need to get an electrician on the problem. You need to check the voltage between your set and the cable with a meter. There should be little or no measurable voltage. If you are getting a reading like 115 volts, then I suspect that the wall outlet into which your TV is plugged has been wired backwards, i.e. the black wire is on the white terminal, and vice-versa. The cable is (or should be) grounded where it comes into the house, but if the outlet has the hot wire on the wrong side, this might cause the problem you described. The wrong connection could have occurred anywhere along the line between your main panel and the outlet, so this may involve checking the connections at several outlets and light fixtures - whatever is on the same circuit as your TV's outlet.

Q: Hi everyone, I recently purchased a PS3 used not slim and am having a tough time with it. For one, I don't even know how to charge my four red dot blinking controller and turn on the ps3. I'm wondering since I got everything hooked up but still not even a red dot on the ps3 when I put in the power cable at the end there is that thing with the three things sticking out, where do I put that? Like a place where I charge my phone? I think that's why I'm having problems. Thanks.: ok. the PS3 uses a standard 3 prong plug, similar to what your PC would use. plug that in, and then into the wall. older PS3's also have a power switch right above the power cord. you have to turn the system on here. after you filp the switch, the PS3 enters standby mode. on to your controller you should have gotten a very short usb cable. the larger end plugs into the system.the smaller into the controller. push the PS button on the center of your controller to sync it. it should go from 4 flashing lights to one. then, it should steady flash position 1 to show that it is charging. one it is charged, or when the usb cable is removed, you should get a steady light. no flashes.

Q: i have a 2001 corolla with a new amplifier. when they wanted to test the amp after all wiring was done, they somehow wired the amps power cable to my negative connection on the battery. i turned on the electrics on the car and they all work. then i tried starting it, and how the engine wont start and the lights dim when im turning the key. what happened? and how can i fix this major screw up???: That means your Amplifier is connected directly to the battery -ve.Then both should work. What is the power level of Battery?If old there is a possibility of full discharge. Dim lights, are an indication of discharged battery. If discharged,re-charge it before next trial. If battery is in good charged condition,starter will work. (Otherwise,Check for any mistakes.Reinstate the connection).

Q: Will the wire and cable industry belong to the power industry? The: Suggestions or online shopping it Feeling very difficult to match the silicone sleeve, the Internet is very easy to buy, about 10 yuan or so, C430. I just bought a Taipower c430 last month, did not buy silicone sets, bought a Moog MP4 package, that with a silicone sleeve machine becomes ugly. Hope to help the landlord.

Q: Can I use a standard 12 volt power cable on an Elmo projector?: Possibly on the BoxiT-200 that takes 12 to 19 volts at 3 amps, positive center. Read the printing on user manual, it gives the requirements. Most other Elmo projectors are plugged into an ac outlet.

Q: i was wondering if i can hook up 2 power cables each one going to a dif. amp one cable being 1200 watt and the other one being 600 watts.. i kno it would be easier to buy a splitter but i already have the cables i just wanna kno it i will ruin the battery or the alternator or something like that: That's not massive power being took out of your battery. If you have one 4 gauge with a distributor block (splitter) running to more 4 gauge. It'll still only get the power of one 4 gauge. But if you wire two 4 gauges up to the battery then both wires are gonna get their power and suck out alot of power. Update to the Big 3 and be safe.

Q: The monitor is ........ Since I have a HDMI cable will i need anything else?: An HDMI cable is not a power cable, it is only used to view the picture from whatever source it is.

Q: Our company needs a WELDING CABLE / DC POWER CABLE,50mm fine strand and color blue. Does anyone knows where to buy here in the Philippines? or if you know some suppliers, manufacturers please do let me know. It would help a lot. Thanks: You can buy it from okorder

Q: I forgot the power cable for my PS3 at a friends house and was wondering if the power cable from my computer would work. It would fit and everything, but would it mess up the system?: Yah, It will work, but your computer wont XD. Use it temporarily and get your cable back A.S.A.P.

Q: Sometimes I have to jiggle the chord or plug it in the right position to get the laptop to be charged. At first, I thought it was the power cable, but after buying a new one, I still have the same problem. Any suggestions as to what causes this and how to fix it?: the only element you do no longer point out is that if the output is AC or DC. If the connectors are the comparable length, as a ways because of the fact the specs pass, evidently like it is going to paintings. How do you tell if this is AC or DC? Many capability adapters in simple terms say it (AC/DC) with the output archives. If yours does, you in trouble-free terms did no longer positioned it on your post. If it would not say, you should seek for a logo. the logo for DC is 3 dots with a good line section over the three dots. For AC you get a tilde (wave image) over the three dots. The pc furnish is definitely is DC. as long because of the fact the different is DC additionally, then pass forward. in case you do no longer see any image, you may desire to obtain a digital meter which will inform you for helpful. good luck.

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