• Roofing Insulation Philadelphia PA - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 20 System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Philadelphia PA - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 20 System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Philadelphia PA - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 20 System 3
Roofing Insulation Philadelphia PA - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 20

Roofing Insulation Philadelphia PA - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 20

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q:or in queensland
Depends on whether you are employed or working contract. Currently it could be 18-25 per hr for employee or upto 40 per hr for contract depending on allowances and if you are providing your own vehicle or company vehicle. Then are you doing bats or anticon, it is usually charged on a sqm rate. Call some roofing companies or insulation companies and ask them what their rates are.
Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
Yes, you can ask, but don't expect him to seriously entertain the idea of actually doing it. You rented the house at it was. The landlord has no obligation to spend money on improving it so you can save money. That amount of heat loss in that time is insignificant. If I turned my heat off for four hours in the just-around-freezing weather we are having right now, I would expect my house to cool off a lot more than 4 degrees. My furnace is coming on for a few minutes at least every 15 minutes to keep the place at just over 60F. I have the lowest heating bill of anyone I know.
Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
Q:Sorry, I asked this in the maintenance and repair section, but no luck.Which is better to have in a 2-story home? My last 2-story home was always hotter upstairs than down. (Physics...heat rises)
the best is more attic isolation so that the heat don't come directly to second floor.
Q:Have a patio with metal roof, gets very hot during summer. Will Great Stuff insulate and stick to hot roof during summer? Thanks
I don't think Great Stuff foam insulation is meant to be applied in the manner in which you need. It is used to fill gaps and cracks, not be sprayed out in thin coats. whenever I've used it in the past, I found out it did not like to be spread out, or "worked".
Q:Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
we live in the desert, and got our roof coated, and instantly noticed the difference, it is much more insulated, and provides protection against leak (which was the main reason we had it done)
Q:I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.
Q:Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?
You should not be able to see your roof tiles from inside your house. So no, it can not be done. You can attach insulation to the rafters if that is what you meant.
Q:i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
Q:Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?
The warm air that collects in the attic is in close contact with the roof, heat is conducted through the roof and lost to the atmosphere.

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