• Roofing Insulation Disc - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 7 System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Disc - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 7 System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Disc - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 7 System 3
Roofing Insulation Disc - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 7

Roofing Insulation Disc - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 7

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?
323 square feet per cubic mile.
Q: Help please, this home had a water pipe from meter brake in the basement as it was unoccupied/empty, the owner/builder replaced all the drywall, insulation, flooring, carpet, tile, roof, windows, hot water tank, furnace, bathroom and kitchen cabinets, new paint on all, basement ceiling was spray painted black (to hide something or to seal it?). the neighbor says the home was gutted and mold tested three times, its completely redone basically a new home inside, feedback please, it "looks" great
Don't trust anything. if there were mold tests done, make sure you see the paperwork on it and note the dates. This is a serious issue and should not be taken for granted. I'd definitely get a home inspection on your own also since so much work was done and you want to make sure it was done properly. Don't judge a book by its cover. Get all the answers you need now so you don't have to worry or deal with things down the road. The costs could sky rocket if there are still issues. Get the facts now, you'll sleep better later.
Q: or in queensland
I think it is 10 australian doller per hour of 200 sq yd of roofing .It differ state to state
Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
Q: A roofer who wants to put a new roof on my mobile home says it will dry out. (We live in the rainiest part of the US)
I think everyone is misunderstanding your question. I think what you are saying is that your insulation got wet, becasue of your roof leaking. The roofer wants to replace the roof but not the insulation. If your talking about an insulation board under the roof then I think your roofer is right. Just put a new roof on. If you talking about some kind of fiberglass batt insulation then it probably should be replaced.
Q: what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?
The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.
Q: I have a split house with an attic where I have insulation on attic floor, but the house seems to be cold still, Can I add insulation to the roof of the attic? If so, any options? Thank you.
Its wide-spread to have a insulated attic.. I once said a neighbor--that used a tremendous exhaust fan..and his roof became bowed.. He also would use alot of firewood in his abode.. i imagine that moisture by some ability--damaged the attic area--/
Q: is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
If you have vented soffits, you have to stay away from the corners where the outside wall meets the roof. It is best to install insulation baffles to the roof sheathing to keep the fiberglass from stopping the natural ventilation through the soffit vents into the attic. They can be purchased at home improvement store.
Q: House is a bi-level. Recently added storm windows to deck off dining room. Having a new rubber roof installed would like to know if we can insulate ceiling to make the room warmer. What product do you suggest we use. we are getting conflicting answers, some say you can insulate others say the ceiling needs to breath having a rubber roof install. Please advise.
Yes, you can. There is a little plastic piece that you will want to tack to the underside of the roof though before you install your insulation. It is a plastic air vent that keeps about an inch or so of space between the roof and the insulation so that air can move through. You need to do that so the roof can breathe as they say. If you don't allow it to breathe, the difference in temperature from outside to inside will cause the roof to sweat and will make your roof go bad a lot quicker.
Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

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