• Roofing Insulation Adhesive - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 5 System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Adhesive - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 5 System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Adhesive - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 5 System 3
Roofing Insulation Adhesive - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 5

Roofing Insulation Adhesive - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 5

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: the noise when it rains is very loud. can I place an insulation material under the polycarbonate roof to reduce noise? Thanks
You can put it up there, but it's effectiveness at cutting noise would depend on the thickness of the insulation but you should not hope for too much reduction as the hard poly roofing is screwed or nailed directly to the rafters and is a good medium for sound transference.
Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
Q: I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.
take a cold shower as soon as you get home.
Q: Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the "Greenest City in America". Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.
And the question is??
Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
I own an 80 year old house -- a home originally built as temporary housing for people working in the airplane industry during the war, and for returning soldiers. Temporary housing that is better structurally than many new homes. In fact, the original design and work was brilliant in its simplicity and precision, and I have found that the problems with my house are the result of work done later on -- additions and fix ups that screwed with the original integrity. One thing I have learned RE old houses is it is often best to leave well enough alone. This does not mean one should not address definite problem, or add certain features, but it does mean one has to think things through and do a great deal of research before acting. As you say, the structure of the roof is the original, so all the folks who had the house before you must have been doing something right. If I were you, I would ask around my community, do some internet searches, and find someone in your area who is an expert on dealing with historical structures of the area. This person will not necessarily be a master craftsman with a PhD in history and another in architecture. It may actually be a skilled handyman or carpenter who is continuing the old family business. He also probably lives in an old farm house, or knows plenty of folks who do. THAT is the guy you want to consult.
Q: Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?
Because air can circulate, (it's called convection) and transfer a lot of heat. In other words, air alone is a very poor insulator. .
Q: Are black concrete roof tiles for my house uncomfortably hot even with roof under sheeting and insulation?
it somewhat is a query of effortless warmth absorption the darker the colour, the greater mild is absorbed. an identical applies for warmth. The darker the colour, the greater warmth would be absorbed. think of of once you dress your self to circulate out on a warm and sunny day, you're unlikely to positioned on black top? The darker shade will help interior the iciness if there is little snow on the roof. on the grounds that warmth would be absorbed, your furnace will artwork much less saving you basically somewhat electrical energy, oil or gas based what you return to a determination to put in the living house. desire that helps =)
Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.
Q: I've found lots of building forums and general "building advice" columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).
i could propose the felt. I rather have heard the two execs and cons with regard to the extra moderen man made underlay, and that i'm no longer inspired. I consistently get rid of the previous roofing, positioned #30 felt down, positioned a 1x4 batten down, and positioned my steel on that. I additionally want the three' huge roofing
Q: I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
I’m guessing you are asking about the attic. Spray cellulose insulation is the way to go. Very green with 80% or more of the product made from recycled paper. Wet or dry depending on the need, with some system allowing for a DIY application.

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