Roofing Insulation Fiberglass Panels - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 6
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Bubble Insulation Benefits:
Reflects 96% of radiant heat
Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic
Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install
Durable and lightweight
Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate
Vapor and radon retarder
Easy to cut and install
Permanent and maintenance-free
Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents
Does not support the growth of mold or mildew
Not affected by moisture or humidity
Lowers heating and cooling costs year round
Bubble Foil Application:
Metal & Steel Buildings
Homes
Roof Underlayments
Cathedral Ceilings
Crawl Spaces
Hot Water Heaters
Basement Walls
Floors
Garage Doors
Concrete slabs
Driveway snow melts
Pole barns
Post frame buildings
Poultry barns
Animal kennels
Temperature sensitive storage areas
Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:
Material Structure: AL/Bubble/AL | ||
Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size | ||
Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized ) | ||
Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized) | ||
PROPERTIES | TEST DATA | UNIT |
Thickness | 3.5-4 | mm |
Weight | 250 | g/m2 |
Emissivity | 0.03-0.04 | COEF |
Thermal conductivity | 0.034 | w/m0 |
Apparent Density | 85 | kg/m3 |
Reflectivity | 95-96 | % |
Water Vapour Transmission | 0.013 | g/m2kpa |
Corrosion | doesn't generate | |
Tensile Strength(MD) | 16.98 | Mpa |
Tensile Strength(TD) | 16.5 | Mpa |
- Q:or in queensland
- I think it is 10 australian doller per hour of 200 sq yd of roofing .It differ state to state
- Q:I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
- I am going to convert my loft, so was researching this subject as well. I once saw on TV (I think on Renovation program) how they make insulation from sredded paper - this was a very inexpensive and very efficient way of doing it. Also they said that the best insulation is the one made from sheeps' wool. You can buy this from major DIY stores. Have a look at the links below
- Q:Help please, this home had a water pipe from meter brake in the basement as it was unoccupied/empty, the owner/builder replaced all the drywall, insulation, flooring, carpet, tile, roof, windows, hot water tank, furnace, bathroom and kitchen cabinets, new paint on all, basement ceiling was spray painted black (to hide something or to seal it?). the neighbor says the home was gutted and mold tested three times, its completely redone basically a new home inside, feedback please, it "looks" great
- the only element i will think of of, is your carpet takes up allot of the moisture that comes into your homestead, so given which you took that carpet up, your having extra of a buildup on the tile, even nevertheless the flooring would desire to not be moist, they are nonetheless taking moisture in throughout the air. Bleach will help kill the mould, not on the plant life nevertheless, they make sprays for that at any homestead progression keep. desire this allows.
- Q:Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
- First you need to see if the foam is FIRE RATED. If you install the wrong foam on an interior surface, it is a building/fire code violation. That being said, I would use an adhesive like liquid nails to install it. Test the adhesive on a piece of foam first though to see if it melts the foam too much. If it does not. Spread the adhesive on the foam and press the foam in place. You can devise a holder to keep the foam sheets in place till the glue dries.
- Q:I'd like to put a train set in my loft / attic, so to avoid it being cold in there during the winter I'm considering having no insulation in the floor of it where one usually would, thus allowing the heat to rise into the loft. Then, insulate the roof between the rafters instead. Is this just as good at keeping the heating costs down?
- only if you do it right.do you have plenty of head room if so drop the ceiling down and super insulate two feet or more and don't forget to leave air space between roof and top of insulation or your roofing boards will rot very quickly.
- Q:My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
- welcome to the wonderful world of cheap, temporary roofing. you've just described a metal roof perfectly. bob, tell em what he's won! a lifetime supply of more bad decisions! also, the ugliest roof in town! but best of all, everyone who drives by his home will know he's a bandwagon kind of guy, he doesn't educate himself and do what's wise, he does what everyone else is doing! can't wait till that crowd finds that cliff they've been lookin for!!!
- Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
- You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
- Q:hot because of all the added insulation. Is that what the insulation will do? Someone told me that it will save us on our cooling/heating bills, and that it will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer now. Is this true?
- Yes, you heard right. If you had no insulation, your air conditioner wouldn't be able to cool the house.
- Q:I would like to know which direction the one side with foil faces. The roof or the interior of the room?This is an attic room. Roof being "raw" i mean that it looks like cedar tongue in groove boards...then shingles on top of them. Which way do i face the foil side of the sheet..?thanx
- The foil side should go to the outside. I believe it's a moisture barrier.
- Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
- They are not a substantial fire hazard. They are far more likely to just stop working than to get overheated.
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Roofing Insulation Fiberglass Panels - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 6
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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