PVC Insulated Electric Wire with a good price

PVC Insulated Electric Wire with a good price

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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PVC Insulated Electric Wire

Introduction

PVC insulated wire belong to the series of laying electric wires, which is mainly suitable for laying at the fixed places. It is widely used as connectors of drive, lighting, electric equipments, instrument and telecommunication equipments with rated voltage 450/750V or below. Part of the plastic wires are used at the equipment with AC rated voltage 300/300V or below.

Features

1. The rated voltage U0 / U 3.6/6 KV;

2. Cable conductor long-term work for 90 ° C temperature of cable;

3. The smallest bending radius is six times the diameter of cable;

4. Cable shall not be in the sunlight long exposure to;

5. The bottom line of cable core must good grounding.

Application

Used in electronics, instruments and electronic equipment and automatic generation device with the power cord, line and signal transmission lines, concrete can be used for anti-theft alarm system, building talkback system, instrument and meter, and monitoring control such as the installation of surveillance.

Manufacturing Standards:GB/T 12706-2008, IEC 60502-2

Model

Type	Name	Laying place and requirement	Long term working temperature
227IEC01/05 BV BLV	Copper conductor PVC insulated wires	Fixed laid indoors, conduits etc.	70
227IEC01/05 BV BLV	Aluminum Conductor PVC insulated wires	Fixed laid indoors, conduits etc.	70
227IEC07 BV-90	Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wires at 90	Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors, conduits.	70
BVR	Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible wire	Be for laying permanent place where flexible required	70
227IEC10 BVV	Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires	Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place. Can be laid in the air or underground.	70
BLVV	Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires
BVVB	Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires
BLVVB	Aluminum conductor PVC insulated sheathed flat wires
227IEC02RV 227IEC06RV	Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible connector	Mainly used at middle and light style moving electronics, home appliances, power and lighting and the places where flexible required.	70
227IECC42 RVB	Copper conductor PVC insulated flat flexible connector
RVS	Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible twisting connector wire
227IEC52 RVV 227IEC53 RVV	Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round flexible connector (light and common type)

Introduction of our company

Our company is a professional China Wire and Cable Manufacturers, mainly supply Aerial bundled cable,House Electric Wire, Insulated Overhead Cable,Aluminium Conductor Steel Reinforced, PVC Control Cables,XLPE Power Cables,BV Electric Wires,Nylon Sheathed Cable,Buried Cable,High Voltage Cable,House Electric Wire,Single Core Flexible Copper Cable,Civil Wire And Cable etc. series of wire and cable products, sincerely welcome everyone to visit.

Q:How much power does the ten square power line carry? How many kilowatts?: And the thermal pipe ditch parallel to the distance of 2 meters, the special circumstances can be reduced and reduced by half the value; cross-distance 0.5 meters, separated by a partition or cable pipe can be 0.25m see GB-94 Table 5.3.5 2006 version of the basic out or the implementation of this, to the local power supply management advice prevail

Q:Can anyone help me out! Does it have any ruled for electrical wiring? i know like the Neutral Wirer always goes to the light. The Live wirer should go to a switch. Does it have any more tips for me?: Precisely what do you need to know? Is it a three way switch? A single pole switch? At home or at work? Different methods can be used in commercial buildings than residential work.

Q:For example, i saw a simple electric generator constructed with magnets and fine wire which was spooled to react against the magnets. Is there an advantage to having a spool of fine wire rather than a solid block of copper?: A generator works by using moving magnets to create a changing magnetic field through a loop of wire. When a magnetic field changes through a loop of wire a current arises in the wire to produce an opposing magnetic field. That current is what we want to generate. If you had one solid piece of copper you would be generating the current from one loop. By having multiple wires you can multiply that current by the number of loops you have (say 50,000). More loops more current.

Q:If I had a 2D shape like a star bent from a single length of wire, how could I 'electrify' it - i.e. pass an electric current through it? I assume that I can't just join the ends straight to the 1.5v battery.I am trying to create a magnetic field and wonder what shape it would have. Would it matter if the wire touched itself as it kept crossing over itself?: The best way to build an electro-magnet is to take a length (12 inches) of insulated wire and wrap it around a nail - 10 turns or so - leave about 4 inches of wire free at both ends. Connect both ends of the wire to a dry cell battery.

Q:I want to upgrade from a 100amp service panel to 200 amp service panel, I am hiring an electrician, however i feel im being taken advantage of (im disabled), I would like to know how to find out what the load/rating is on the existing wires from the power hub accross the street to my electrical panel really are, the wires are underground and every bid I have gotten calls for the tar road to be cut up and entire new wires installed and I dont have that kind of money. Also since the house is NOT that old I dont think the wires need to be replaced. since some of my neighbors have upgraded w/o tearing up the road etc.: I'm not seeing that the conduit is rated for being buried. They make a cable that can be buried or exposed outdoors without leaking electricity. You're going to want to go 12 or 10 gauge wire because you may be running some pretty high drawing tools out there. The next question is where are you hooking it into? Is it the regular breaker box and if so, can it handle the additional amps that you'll be adding? I'm not saying you can't do this, but if you do it wrong, it could kill you. Not grounded, mixed up hot wire and neutral, improper ground, etc. If, if you decide to sell and it's not up to code for your area, you may have to bring it up to code and at that point, it may cost as much or more than the original instalation.

Q:I am looking for a Wiring Diagram for a 2006 Tiburon SE. Just this morning a list of thing weren't working in my car: Power Window, Power Locks, Turn Signals, Hazards, Fog Lights, no automatic windshield wiper swipe after using the wiper fluid, glovebox light. Everything else appears to be working. Any other insight would be extremely helpful. Thank you.: Try the fuse box, not the little one in the car the one under the hood.

Q:I am trying to install a GFI in my bathroom but it keeps popping. I have narrowed the problem down to the high hats. I think the switch for the high hats is installed on the neutral, but I am not sure. When I hook up the wires for the high hats, the gfi pops. I have checked all the outlets for reversed wires. I can not get to the wires on the high hats. Is this dangerous?: Generally all switches should be wired to interrupt the hot lead, but you message indicates you already know this. I can think of two things that are happening. One could be that you already have and existing ground fault on the high hats. The other is that some load in the house is using the same neutral line and thus the GFI is detecting an imbalance between the high hat hot wire and the returning neutral. You might try measuring the voltage potential between ground and the neutral on the high hats when they are energize. It should be zero. If it's not, then something else is using the same neutral.you may have heard this referred to as a common nuetral. This is a common mistake and as you probably know, it can put 110 volt potential on the ground side of a second electrical device.

Q:I have a 1981 Ford f-100 I recently went to start it up and the wires that attach to my sylenoidgo too hot and fried. I know that the wires on the back of the sylenoid go to the starter, but where does the wire that attaches to the front go?: if its a 3 wire solenoid then the two big wires go to the starter and the battery positive post,the small wire comes from your ignition switch,if its automatic it goes thru the neutral start switch as well if its a four wire the nthe extra small wire goes to the alternator field terminal to supply power to energise the alternator for charging

Q:I have a garden shed to which I would like to run electrical power. I have a source of power in my workshop that has a few open breakers in a 125AMP panel. Any running from the current panel to the garden shed would be roughly 60 feet long. I was thinking of running a 10-3 wire with two hots, a common and the ground to split into two circuits once I got to the shed. One would be for a few outlets (internal and outside) and another circuit for the lighting. I would be exiting the workshop for about 20 feet to get to the garden shed where I would put the cable 18 underground in a 1 1/2 inch conduit. If this is OK, what sort of breakers would I need at the workshop panel? I was thinking 2 20-amp single pole for each wire (hots-redblack), the common to the neutral bar and of course the ground. Is this enough information to help me ensure I would be NEC compliant? Any safety issues? Is there a better way to do this?: Connect your 10-3 to a double pole 30 amp breaker in the work shop. Use type UF wire underground. 18 deep with PVC conduit will work well. Or just bury the wire without conduit at 24. Buried conduit is considered a wet location so UF must be used either way. At the shed install a lug panel with 2 or more breakers. No more than 6. If you use a 15 amp in one space you can wire the lights with #14 wire. 20 amp in the other for the receptacle outlets wired with #12. Keep the ground and the neutral separated at the shed box with the neutral bus isolated from the box. You are required to install a single ground rod at the shed. This is for lightning and power surges only. BCNU is wrong about not installing a grounding conductor with the circuit conductors. It is not allowed to use an electrode for equipment grounding. Install GFCI protected receptacle outlets. Lights are not required to be GFCI protected. Any other questions, send a reply.

Q:What is the maximum load of 2.5 square millimeters of wire?: Flexible configuration, easy to install, easy to maintain, easy to manage, is the small and medium-sized optical fiber communication room to achieve fiber, jump fiber, fiber and fiber optic cable access to one of the essential equipment

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