• 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 1
  • 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 2
  • 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 3
6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

 

1 Application: It is used to transmit and distribute power in power transmission and distribution system of 35kV or lower. It is generally applied to the fields including power, construction, mines, metallurgy, petrochemical industry and communication in complete replace of oil immersed paper insulated power cable and in partial replace of PVC insulated power cable. Power cables for power networks, underground, outdoors and in cable ducting.

 

Standards: BS6622, BS EN/IEC 60228,IEC60502.2

Conductor: Class 2 stranded plain copper conductor to BS EN 60228:2005 (previously BS6360)

Conductor screen: Semi-conducting material

Insulation: XLPE (Cross-Linked Polyethylene) Type GP8 to BS7655

Insulation Screen: Semi-conducting material

Metallic Screen: Individual and overall copper tape screen to BS6622

Filler: PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) fibres

Separator: Binding tape

Bedding: PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Type TM1 to BS7655

Armouring:

Single Core: Aluminium Wire Armoured (AWA)

MultiCore: Steel Wire Armoured (SWA)

Sheath: PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Type TM1 to BS7655

Colour: Red or Black

 

2 Using features:

 

1. Rated voltage: Uo/U:3.6/6kV, 6/10kV(11kV), 12/20kV(24kV), 19/33kV, 26/35kV(35kV).

2. No. of core: Single core or three cores.

3. The highest allowed operating temperature of conductor for long-term working is 90oC. In short-circuit (Max. long-term is no more than 5 seconds). The highest temperature for conductor is no more than 250℃.

4. D.C. resistance of the conductor complies with the stipulations of 3.6/6kV, 6/10kV(11kV), 12/20kV(24kV), 19/33kV, 26/35kV(35kV).

5. The environment temperature should be no lower than 0oC when lay. Otherwise it should be preheated.

6. The cable is laid without horizontal drop limit.

7. Working Frequency Voltage Test: 3.5Uo/5min without puncture.

8. Partial Discharge Test: The discharge volume should be no more than 10pC under 1.73Uo for the cable.

9. Minimum Bending Radius

Single core - Fixed: 15 x overall diameter

3 core - Fixed: 12 x overall diameter

(Single core 12 x overall diameter and 3 core 10 x overall diameter where bands are positioned adjacent to joint or terminations provided that the bending is carefully controlled by the use of a former)

Note:

The single core armoured cables are used for D.C. system only. If used for A.C. system, the magnetic isolation should be applied on the steel armoire wires of non-magnetical materials should be used.

 

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Q: I am trying to install a GFI in my bathroom but it keeps popping. I have narrowed the problem down to the high hats. I think the switch for the high hats is installed on the neutral, but I am not sure. When I hook up the wires for the high hats, the gfi pops. I have checked all the outlets for reversed wires. I can not get to the wires on the high hats. Is this dangerous?
It's not dangerous providing the GFI, or circuit breaker pops off. But seriously. If the switch is connected to the neutral wire (white wire) instead of the hot wire (black wire) it wouldn't matter. It wouldn't be wired correctly, but there would not be an adverse effect on the circuit. I don't know how much wiring you've done, but a common mistake when wiring a switch is connecting a black wire to one terminal and connecting a white wire to the other terminal. Then again it's possible that you wired everything correctly, and that there's something else wrong, like the high hats, or moisture somehow found its way into the circuit.
Q: i.e can i use a speaker wire when the electric wire in the light is broken???is it compatible?
You could if it is the same or larger gage then the broken wire. I use 16 gage electric wire to run my speakers. It is like Monster Wire.
Q: Hi, I have a 60 year old house. While doing an addition, I discovered that the outlets were running from the panel, through the kitchen, to the living room, and then the garage. Was this the normal way to wire back then?? Every time I have the TV( living room), washer (garage), Frig and microwave (kitchen) on, the circuit breaker trips. I am doing the wiring for my new addition, and can put the living room and garage on a seperate circuit. Is this wise?? It sounds like a good idea, but I want to make sure.Thanks for your timepb4sc
back in the day the code didnt have many regulations. Now its required to have 2 separate 20 amp circuits in kitchen, a gfci near any sink or tub or garage or outdoor area. It also has rules to govern splitting up the load on entire circuits and the calculations to decide number of branch circuits required for any home. From what your saying, you need rewiring. The washer should be on its own circuit, along with the fridge and microwave(EACH on its own)
Q: i need to get some electrical wire redone in 1 of the rooms and i wanted to know about how much would it be to get the job done?
depends on the distance from the breaker box, and the condition of the walls and ceilings on the route. If the breaker box is out of space or power, then it could cost a lot. But it also depends on country and location. Bottom line, just to run wires, install new outlets, patch walls and repaint, could be US$1000 or so. If the distances are long, or the building old, or access limited, it could double. If you have to upgrade breaker box and upgrade service drop, $10000 at a guess.
Q: I know that the color codes tell you whether its neutral and other purposes, but do i need to find the same colored wire to extend one, or do i need the same one? And are they just for safety purposes?
In the US the colors generally have to stay the same. There are exceptions, the code book is a big book. Switches have some exceptions, like a white could have been used in existing installation as a hot from a light to a switch, a white could be marked and used as a hot on a 240v circuit, and the colors from one side of a switch may change colors, and if you have fed a multiwire circuit with 12/3 or 14/3 NM cable you can extend the red and white circuit with a black and white, but generally unless you can find an specific exception that matches your installation then for an extension the color needs to match.
Q: 0.5 square feet can bring the number of watts
Check the electrical manual: 0.5 square copper safety cutoff is 8A. 220V × 8A = 1760W.
Q: electrical wiring for 90 ford broncoII?
Not sure the question. But if you are looking for a/c wiring a ranger with the same engine will have the same wiring diagram. Check local parts store they stock all kinds of engine books with wiring in it.
Q: I am hooking up a 30 amp rv outlet to connect my trailer to for electric service. I have to use a 10/3 with ground wire. I have black, red, white and bare. I use the white for common, the blacke for hot. The question I have is, of the red and bare wire which one goes to the ground connection on the outlet and which one goes to ground in the outlet box and service panel. I have no problem getting it to be safe, I just do not know which one is used for ground at the plug when there are four wires and one is red, not green. Thanks
The 10/3 you have is color coded for 220VAC service. Also red, black, white wires are used for 110VAC 3-way switching circuits, such as lighting. For 220VAC, normally the red is hot, the black is hot, the white is neutral and the bare is ground. For switching circuits, the black is hot, the red is switched hot, the white is neutral, the bare is ground. If you are wanting 110VAC, I woud get 10/3 wire that is color coded for 110VAC, black, white, green and bare. This will eliminate any errors. You can use any colors you want as long as you know what they are and where they go electrically. Use the black for hot, the white for neutral, the bare for ground and cap-off the red. If your outlet is three pronged and has a ground screw, you can use the red for the ground prong (red substituting the for the green wire) , and the bare for the ground screw. If there is no ground screw, eliminate the bare wire. If you modify the colors, becareful because it will not be to any code.
Q: I have a 9 week old kitten that while playing, she continues to bite or play with my electrical cords from my tv, computer, etc. I have zip tied all of my wires and carefully tucked them away, but when I am not around, she finds them and pulls them out and begins to play with them. She has even taken the plastic baby proof electrical socket covers out and continues to attack the sockets. When I have sen her playing with these things, I have tried to make loud noises and shout no or clap my hands, but all she does is look at me like I am stupid. I don't want her to get hurt, and I am trying to avoid having to buy new cords and cables. What can I do?
smear a little bit of hot sauce on the wires. It wont damage the wires, and it will stop the kitten from biting the wires. My sister has a cat and her cat had the same problem. she put hot sauce on the wires 1 time and when th cat went to play with the wires, she sniffed them, licked it, and ran to here water. my sister wiped of the hot souce and frisky (the cats name) never went near the wires again.
Q: I did something very dumb, took a notebook adapter, 19.5 volts 4.62 amps, and atached the two wires to both sides of my head i held it there for sometime and all of a sudden one end got real hot,and I felt the most emotionally depressing , painful feeling in that area. like a frying sensation.I am worried because my head, that exact spot has been hurting on and off for a couple days now, and i have sometime mild pain in and above the eye, which is a symptom of aneurysm.does anyone in here, with knowledge of physics, know what would passing a current like that do to brain tissue?should I be worried, go to ER or just wait a few more days.?
You must go straight away to the ER, unless you think you're going to become Electro

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