• 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 1
  • 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 2
  • 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 3
6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

 

1 Application: It is used to transmit and distribute power in power transmission and distribution system of 35kV or lower. It is generally applied to the fields including power, construction, mines, metallurgy, petrochemical industry and communication in complete replace of oil immersed paper insulated power cable and in partial replace of PVC insulated power cable. Power cables for power networks, underground, outdoors and in cable ducting.

 

Standards: BS6622, BS EN/IEC 60228,IEC60502.2

Conductor: Class 2 stranded plain copper conductor to BS EN 60228:2005 (previously BS6360)

Conductor screen: Semi-conducting material

Insulation: XLPE (Cross-Linked Polyethylene) Type GP8 to BS7655

Insulation Screen: Semi-conducting material

Metallic Screen: Individual and overall copper tape screen to BS6622

Filler: PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) fibres

Separator: Binding tape

Bedding: PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Type TM1 to BS7655

Armouring:

Single Core: Aluminium Wire Armoured (AWA)

MultiCore: Steel Wire Armoured (SWA)

Sheath: PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Type TM1 to BS7655

Colour: Red or Black

 

2 Using features:

 

1. Rated voltage: Uo/U:3.6/6kV, 6/10kV(11kV), 12/20kV(24kV), 19/33kV, 26/35kV(35kV).

2. No. of core: Single core or three cores.

3. The highest allowed operating temperature of conductor for long-term working is 90oC. In short-circuit (Max. long-term is no more than 5 seconds). The highest temperature for conductor is no more than 250℃.

4. D.C. resistance of the conductor complies with the stipulations of 3.6/6kV, 6/10kV(11kV), 12/20kV(24kV), 19/33kV, 26/35kV(35kV).

5. The environment temperature should be no lower than 0oC when lay. Otherwise it should be preheated.

6. The cable is laid without horizontal drop limit.

7. Working Frequency Voltage Test: 3.5Uo/5min without puncture.

8. Partial Discharge Test: The discharge volume should be no more than 10pC under 1.73Uo for the cable.

9. Minimum Bending Radius

Single core - Fixed: 15 x overall diameter

3 core - Fixed: 12 x overall diameter

(Single core 12 x overall diameter and 3 core 10 x overall diameter where bands are positioned adjacent to joint or terminations provided that the bending is carefully controlled by the use of a former)

Note:

The single core armoured cables are used for D.C. system only. If used for A.C. system, the magnetic isolation should be applied on the steel armoire wires of non-magnetical materials should be used.

 

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Q: I have a house built in 1960 that has what I think is original wiring. It is non-metallic sheathed cable. There are some places (underneath old leaks in the roof) where the outer plastic coating has disintegrated. Is this safe? Is there anything I can do to make it safer?
Hello, Homes that were built in this era used aluminum wire that was protected with a paper and fibre wrap. The wiring was safe for that era but is no longer used due to the possibility of fire. These lines can easily get overloaded with older appliances. All new construction is using copper wire with coatings that are compliant with new building codes. What you can do: Have all exposed wiring replaced by a licensed electrician. Call an electrician in to see the existing wiring and what is the best course of action required to make your home safer. Work of this nature can be costly due to repairs to your walls when installing new wires and outlets. Ask the electrician to break down any quotation into a scope of work estimate. A scope of work estimate will outline exactly what the electricians work will include and also what work is to be done by others (such as drywall repair and painting). Look in your Yellow Pages directory for electricians that specialize in this type of repair. You can also call the Hydro company, that provides your home with electricity, for inspections and help. Good luck, I hope this helps you.
Q: House is bank owned, wires clipped from electrical box, missing copper pipes from furnaceand the furnace could possibly be missing as well.We are looking to buy this house. It is QUITE CHEAP but we are looking at what it could possibly cost to repair all of this.1. How much does a furnace cost (about 1800 sq ft house)2. How much does it cost for the copper piping that is missing from the furnace?3. How hard and is it costly to fix the clipped wires from the electrical box?Everything else in the house is great, it's just that stuff. I know a bank will not approve a loan if the furnace is missing along with the copper pipes and the wires clipped at the electrical box.How much am I looking at out of pocket for this house before we can even move in? We live in PA and aren't sure what the laws/regulations are. ANYTHING would help us.Thank you!
Wire loss does not sound like it would have even been worth considering as it soon goes into walls., so not a long piece if I were considering on taking it. I think they did more work than what it was worth.HOWEVER: a certified electrician must do the work and sign off on the job as it normally needs to be inspected to be sure the electrician did the job correctly. This protects you. So you can get fire insurance from insurance company. iF the house were to catch on fire, the insurance company is one of the first ones on the property after the fire and they will search for a point of ignition. If it is in the wiring that is not certified (oh yeah, they will have records) it gives them the right to refuse payment. Furnace goes the same way generally speaking. If the furnace is missing then you can start with a new system entirely such as forced air heating system. Furnaces are going to cost about the same no matter which system you buy. You will need tin bashers to evaluate whether they can install the systemor just a heating contractor to evaluate and judge which is easier to install (the old system or go with a different system) He should be able to give you an approximate cost for it and time period. So, the only difference is who hires the contractor the bank or you Furnace is needed because you do not want the plumbing that has water inside to FREEZE. That can crack porcelain or split metal pipe or plumbing joints are broken open in the walls. Now, that is a mess. I would not want that to happen and spot heaters just does not cover the whole house especially iF you are in an area that Freezes. Most likely the bank would consider the hiring of the repair contractor for you MAY be the only buyer interested.
Q: I was just wondering is all electrical high voltage lines including low voltage is isolated to prevent electrical shock.
Some do and some don't ! High voltage power line that runs at 20000 volts to 50000 volts is a bare wire. Lower voltage street line from pole to pole (about 5000 volts) is also bare wire. After step down by the small street transformer then feed to the house 240 volts is insulated wire. All the AC wiring inside the house carries 120 volts and 240 volts is insulated wire. Most electronic circuit board has printed circuit which has hundreds of bare wire.
Q: i have a problem where my acc fuse keeps blowing and im tired of replacing fuses so what i was wondering is if it was safe to straight wire an interior light with an inline fuse and a toggle switch and would it cause any kinds of conflict
The point of having fuses is to protect the circuits. So, I'd say that this would be extremely unsafe - even a 12-volt shock can kill.
Q: I am installing a new light switch on the inside of an exterior wall in my walkout basement. Because of the floor joists and finished ceiling, the only way I can figure to get the wiring to that location is by punching it through to the outside and running it along the wall and over to the location of the switch. This run will be about 30ft long and go around one corner. My question is: Can I do this with bare UF (outdoor romex) wire? Or will the wire need to be installed in a conduit?
romex will be fine
Q: Practical area of almost 70 square feet, ready to package workers do not material, that like my home this area, probably need the number of wires ah? Go dark line! Copper wire! What specifications are required? There are water pipes to prepare all the installation of Taurus hot water pipe about how many meters? More
In fact, I think the need for a small place, the domestic do not know how a decoration on the slot, in fact, obviously and then directly covered with gypsum board can be, between the gypsum board and the wall can also add noise, the effect than the open Slot so much better, but also save the plaster and other steps
Q: Electrical supplies
Not at this time. Some wiring has been in continuous service for periods exceeding 80 years. Wiring does deteriorate. Insulation decomposes, connections oxidize, conductors are embrittled. However, Steps taken 100 years ago to regulate and standardize wiring practice have allowed most installations to fail safe.
Q: electrical house wiring questions : what do we call (whats the technical name) to the wire use in electrical house wiring connect to the switches (buttons) ? one is the hot wire (live wire) the other one is . ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with neutral wire ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with earth wire ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with another hot (live) wire ?what do we call (whats the technical name) to the wire use in electrical house wiring connect to the switches (buttons) ? one is the hot wire (live wire) the other one is . ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with a half-wire ?
The support strand for the electrical feed is not the neutral, it usually does not provide a ground path, it is isolated at the house. Neutral is provided by grounding the electrical panel at your house, in some areas, this is done by connecting the electrical panel to the water pipe coming into the house, or it may be through ground rods driven into the ground (now they also used ground plates). If the water table in your area has lowered, then that is why the ground/neutral did not seem to work as well. If the ground is very dry, then there should be an array of them to give any protection. I would check the code because the panel should be grounded with a wire that is larger than a number 6. If your panel is not grounded that is a serious problem and needs to be fixed immediately. The neutral and the third wire ground are connected together at the panel to the ground wire. Breakers will not trip unless the problem is in your house, a problem outside will not cause your breakers to trip, and it is current that causes the breakers to trip, not voltage or heat. I think that possibly what happened is that the shorting of the leads to your house, then the removal of the short caused a surge in the voltage, and that was too much for the transformers. If the electrical company fixed the support wire and you described your problem, I would be very concerned that they did not verify the status of your ground, I would get a qualified electrician to check things out and give you a report. To protect your PC, I would make sure that the grounding of the outlet is very good, and to be doubly sure, I would use a GFI receptacle and a surge protecting power bar.
Q: A white substance, I'm now worried that this is asbestos, Hope someone can tell me wether it is used in electrical wire, I.E copper based. Please help.
Asbestos is no longer used for insulating wires today but please take into account that a lot of old appliances and buildings still contain wire covered with asbestos. Great article on asbestos and wires below.
Q: I had work in electrical business for about 10 years! I had my company overseas and I had a lot of projects done as well as building electric of a Mall! My question is what paperwork do I need, how long the procedure takes to obtain all the certificates and register company, how much would I need to invest and are there any big electric company that can offer me work and support as subcontractor in NJ or NY state!Thank you very much for your time!
Contact the website below to get an answer to what training and testing you will need for each category of electrician in New York.

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