• 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 1
  • 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 2
  • 6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage System 3
6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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6.35 / 11KV Copper Conductor Steel Wire Armoured XLPE Power Cable for Underground Usage

 

1 Application: It is used to transmit and distribute power in power transmission and distribution system of 35kV or lower. It is generally applied to the fields including power, construction, mines, metallurgy, petrochemical industry and communication in complete replace of oil immersed paper insulated power cable and in partial replace of PVC insulated power cable. Power cables for power networks, underground, outdoors and in cable ducting.

 

Standards: BS6622, BS EN/IEC 60228,IEC60502.2

Conductor: Class 2 stranded plain copper conductor to BS EN 60228:2005 (previously BS6360)

Conductor screen: Semi-conducting material

Insulation: XLPE (Cross-Linked Polyethylene) Type GP8 to BS7655

Insulation Screen: Semi-conducting material

Metallic Screen: Individual and overall copper tape screen to BS6622

Filler: PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) fibres

Separator: Binding tape

Bedding: PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Type TM1 to BS7655

Armouring:

Single Core: Aluminium Wire Armoured (AWA)

MultiCore: Steel Wire Armoured (SWA)

Sheath: PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Type TM1 to BS7655

Colour: Red or Black

 

2 Using features:

 

1. Rated voltage: Uo/U:3.6/6kV, 6/10kV(11kV), 12/20kV(24kV), 19/33kV, 26/35kV(35kV).

2. No. of core: Single core or three cores.

3. The highest allowed operating temperature of conductor for long-term working is 90oC. In short-circuit (Max. long-term is no more than 5 seconds). The highest temperature for conductor is no more than 250℃.

4. D.C. resistance of the conductor complies with the stipulations of 3.6/6kV, 6/10kV(11kV), 12/20kV(24kV), 19/33kV, 26/35kV(35kV).

5. The environment temperature should be no lower than 0oC when lay. Otherwise it should be preheated.

6. The cable is laid without horizontal drop limit.

7. Working Frequency Voltage Test: 3.5Uo/5min without puncture.

8. Partial Discharge Test: The discharge volume should be no more than 10pC under 1.73Uo for the cable.

9. Minimum Bending Radius

Single core - Fixed: 15 x overall diameter

3 core - Fixed: 12 x overall diameter

(Single core 12 x overall diameter and 3 core 10 x overall diameter where bands are positioned adjacent to joint or terminations provided that the bending is carefully controlled by the use of a former)

Note:

The single core armoured cables are used for D.C. system only. If used for A.C. system, the magnetic isolation should be applied on the steel armoire wires of non-magnetical materials should be used.

 

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Q: RVV2 * 1.0 is a wire or a cable
In the power system, the substation is the transmission and distribution of the assembly point, the substation is divided into: boost substation, the main network substation, the second power substation, the substation is the power substation, Substation, distribution station
Q: can i just use under-ground electrical wiring with out using conduit ??? plus what other requirements will be needed
For underground wiring, it is essential you use underground feeder and branch-circuit cable (UF cable). it's weatherproof and best for underground burial.The requirement for direct (underground) burial is 24 inches. You need not use a conduit if your going to use the UF cable but be sure to have it 24 inches below ground. if you want to lessen the depth of burial then consider using a conduit. Check your local electrical codes as well to be sure and ask advice from an electrician. Hope this helps
Q: HelloRecently I installed 100W Bulbs in my home and noticed that the light fixtures became extremely hot and within 10 minutes they had started melting the insulation. So i looked at the wire and found that it was 18 Gauge and found that through all fixtures of the home some of them with at least 20 feet of wiring is this up to code? I also noticed that many sockets would not allow a laptop to charge or even a cell phone what could be the cause of this? I'm in ontario canada.
On the fixture it self under the cover should be a sticker listing the max wattage of a bulb to use if its says say 60w max then you put a 100w in you answered your own question. Light fixtures are rated for wattage put to much in end result is over heated wires melted fixture and or a fire Buy a new one rated for a 100w most folks don't know they are rated hope that helps Lr
Q: I am wiring a new screened-in porch, and i need to run wires to a switch box through conduit. I plan to run conduit from the basement out to the box and then into the ceiling, where i will then change the wire into reqular Romex when it is in the enclosed ceiling. I need to know how many wires will fit in the conduit. I was planning on using 1 inch conduit from and to the switch box. I am using 14-2 wire through a 1 conduit. thanks
wHalf inch conduit is fine. Rather than try bending the conduit, you could run straight to lengths to ells with covers. The wire will push for a considerable distance through straight runs. If a ground connection is available at the point from which you take power, it would be best to run a green ground wire in the conduit, and use Romex with a ground. Also you might consider using number 12 wire all the Way, if you are connecting to a 20 amp breaker or fuse. That way you could put a receptacle out there too.
Q: I bought an air conditioner that has a 15a 240 vac plug (NEMA 6-15, I believe - 2 horizontal prongs above the ground) but my air conditioner wall outlet is a 20a 125 vac (NEMA 5-20, I believe - one vertical prong and one that looks like a sideways T above the ground). I have also ascertained that this outlet has its own circuit at the breaker box. I guess I am just curious how big of a procedure it would be to get the outlet changed, as I live in a big apartment building and am hoping it would not involve anything outside of my own apartment - and also that it is cost effective vs. just selling the air conditioner at a loss and buying a different one.
It depends. Either the A/C unit requires both 110 and 220 VAC (rms) or just 220 VAC. If it's a 220 VAC 3 prong plug, in general it only requires 220 VAC (no neutral/return) and a ground. If that's the case, simply remove the white wire for that circuit from the grounding bar and install it into the breaker directly below the breaker for its black wire then wire up the receptacle. If that unit is old (no ground; both 220 VAC and 110 VAC) you CAN use the ground wire of the 12-2G as a neutral/return. It's not code, but it works. I've done it before. Hopefully the first example is your deal. If it's the second, do everything I just said, just realize that the equipment has no ground. Give me some more information. -----------EDIT------------ Hmm. From all the thumbs down, you'd think that I was wrong. I'm not. You also don't need a double pole breaker. It would be nice, but it's unnecessary. Under my plan, you would use already existing breakers and have to throw both of them to kill the circuit. It's not exactly code, but there are no real safety problems if you label it correctly.
Q: I was changing a light fixture in my bedroom today. I took down an old ceiling rose which had the live wire, two neutrals, three loop wires, and 4 earths. I used the brass connectors and kept the wiring the same so all in all i simply connected up the live, neutral, and earth wire the the connectors from the old fixture. I tested the light before i stuck attatched it to its bracket and it worked fine, however when i attatched it to the bracket the brass connectors touched the metal of the new fixture and and blew the upstairs lighting. At first i thought it may be a fuse, so i bought two brand new but to no avail. Any ideas as what could be preventing any of the upstairs lighting from working?
umm it could be the neutral is loose , you need to check it with a volt meter to see if its on then check each wire splice and i don't know what you mean brass connectors they should be plastic wire nuts
Q: I have an electrical outlet in my basement family room on a wall made with drywall. I want to 'flip' the box so that it is facing the furnace room. There's no drywall on that side, so I have access to the box and the stud it's nailed to. I just want to cut the power, (check again that the power is off!) pull the nails out, turn the box 180 degrees and renail to the stud. I've got enough slack in the wires.Can I do that?
Yes, you can do it. You just need to be sure that the wires inside the box are correctly and tightly connected when you're done.
Q: Found a wire in my attic right by the hatch with about 2 of it burnt. I didn't see any bare wire exposed, but pretty close. It's not at a connection. There is a little bit of insulation singed around it.Maybe I nicked it when I climbed up there a few months ago? Maybe a squirrel or something was gnawing on it? I didn't see or smell anything dead.Or could it be it's just wired wrong?I'm pretty worried because it's connected to my smoke detectors that were wired last fall. I have 6 of them and they are all connected to their own separate breaker. So if it starts a fire and shorts them out I would never know.
Yes to above. Your wiring is probably to small of gage for the electrical load you are using. And the next time you may burn your home down. Don't delay.
Q: hope you can help
pure iron cannot be used since highly pure iron has low strength of 150 mega pascals.steel can be used in car bodies (plain steel is an alloy of iron and carbon). Steel with low Carbon content (ex: mild steel) is used and alloy steels can also be used. it has to be ductile and high fracture toughness. Good tensile strength is needed. For the copper to be used as electrical wires it has to be 99.7% pure. After copper is drawn to thin wires, it looser conductivity so it has to annealed to get back conductivity.
Q: I have an unfinished basement with a drywall ceiling. I will be running 12/2 electrical wire about 25 feet across the basement to the breaker box. Can I run the electrical wire on the outside of the drywall and staple it in place? I don't feel like fishing the wire through the ceiling.
There is a way out of this. It is called Mc Cable. (sometimes called BX) Lowe's has it for sell by the foot. It meets the NEC for protection against physical damage requirement. 1 hole straps will ensure that proper supports is in place. Just be sure that you use the red plastic inserts at every attachment of every box. Good luck! ps. BE EXTRA CAREFUL OF CUTTING THE STEEL SHEATHING OFF THE WIRE.

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