• Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8304 System 1
  • Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8304 System 2
Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8304

Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8304

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8304

Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8304

 

Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Original Stone Serie Grey Color CMAX8304 is one of the most popular color, which is new and becoming more and more popular in the market now. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

 

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q: Would they be easy to remove and not damage the floor (ugly linoleum) when I have to move out at the end of the year?
no the damage would be hreat every thing would have to be removed down to the bare wood. thats what peel and stick tiles do STICK.
Q: on this link.. uld someone please tell me what color glass tile is on the first and the second photos of the bathrooms?the top bathroom looks more like a pink base and the second bathroom has the dark gray tiles and the purple walls. also, what kind of walls are these? it looks different than just regular paint. i need a link to the tiles that both of these bathrooms have. i think the first one is more of a pink base and the second is more of a silver base.
3d glass mosaic tiles.. The lighting is crucial for these tiles to shine appropriately.. I'm guessing that it'll be about $100-$200 per sheet for these type of tiles ! Lowes has some pillow tiles that give off that type of light for $195 a sheet.. The walls might be some sort of painting effect.. Like dry brushing .. Very pretty intersting but, could be REALLY expensive to try and pull off... If you like the look try a simple solutions pick a few things to mimic/faux spend some money on the WOW factor... Good Luck
Q: I want room color which color perfectly adjust with my granite green tile
Hi Maruf, I would choose a Light Steel Grey color to compliment the Granite Green tile.Granite Green tile is beautiful, choosing a color that blends to much with the tile will not enhance the look of your tile. The Light grey color will pick up the green hues in your tile, yet allow your tile to have center stage of visual appeal ! If you are truly not interested in a Light grey then my second suggestion for you is Sage Green. Best of Luck!
Q: Real tile or those that u just glue on?? why?
Makes no difference until you move the house, and maybe not even then. Mortar cracks
Q: I have a commercial pool thats about 100 years old ( with modern modifications). The ceramic tiles on the floor area are original. We have been begged by just about everyone not to replace them. It looks soo dirty. Our comepetition is more expensive.....water quality is horrible....and their pools are packed all day. Im lucky to get 5 people in an 18 hour day. The water and inside the pool look nice.....just getting to the pool...people think they will get a disease. Its just old age stain....not sure what that is exactly.
you could try an acid base cleaner on the tile . These type of stains may be just old age though and i know every one says don't replace old things but if these tiles are past there prime? i am sure you can get a modern tile that has the same look
Q: i know NOTHING about how to do it or what i need. Could someone just list all the tools and equipment i would need to buy or rent to complete this job myself? ie, tiles, tile cutter, ?, ?, ?... etc. thanks.
You'd probably need a tile cutter, wet-saw would be best if the job is medium or larger. Otherwise a manual tile cutter would work, just more labor intensive. Wet-saws can be bought at discount stores for as little as 20 bucks. Some tile nippers will help remove small bits of tile or small cuts, etc. Your prep work will call for maybe snap line to mark straight lines for tile placement. Using a stright-edge will also help keep your tile straight, and using the plastic grout inserts will ensure you keep a uniform thickness between your tiles (size of inserts depends on how wide your grout lines will be). You'll need a float or trowel to spread the mortar or mastic. Once it's spread, you set your tile one it while mortar is wet. You'll need a water bucket with large sponge to wipe down the tiles after they've been set. This not only cleans the tiles, but levels the grout to a final depth as well. Wipe it while wet and it's fairly easy - let it dry and it's almost impossible to smooth your grout. I suggest you search the web or get a book on tiling basics. The job is really straight-forward and fairly simple. Just familiarize yourself with the basic concepts and tips for doing the job. Tiling is far easier than most folks believe it to be. It's just a matter of rolling up one's sleeves and begining the job. Finally, you'll need six-pack of beer when the job is finished. Good luck
Q: You are tiling a room with 1 foot squares tiles.The room is 11 feet 8 in wide and 15 ft 8 in long. How many whole tiles will you need?How many tiles will need to be cut? Each box of tiles covers 10 square feet. How many boxes of tiles will you need?
Are there no windows or doors in this room ? No other obstructions which affect the wall area ? In any case, it is impossible to determine how many tiles you will have to cut. It depends on where you start tiling, as well as the bits that you have to work around, like doors and windows, and so on. But, crucially, it is also important to know the height of the room. Work out a rough area and add, say, 15% for the ones you have to cut. So, if the room is h feet high, you will need 2 x (12h + 16h) = 2 x 28h = 56h square feet. Add 15% and you get 65h square feet (that is, 6.5h boxes of tiles). (But you can subtract the area of any doors, windows, etc.)
Q: I live in a single-level ranch style house but on a concrete pad. I am re-tiling the kitchen floor. Upon removing the old tile, I discovered a 15 lb. felt pad had been glued to the floor; on top of this pad was thin set; then the tile. I live in Bakersfield, CA which is a dry and arrid climate.
YIKES!! Even in the High Desert of California, there is moisture underground. But, getting to your question: a) If your pad was poured over a vapor barrier (visqueen, typically), you do not need to add anything new *as a vapor barrier*. b) It cannot hurt to install a sealer on top of the concrete before you install new tile in any case. That will reduce the dusting in any case. c) But I am thinking that the felt paper you found was installed as a strain-relief rather than a vapor-barrier. It allows the tile to move differently than the concrete slab. This becomes important if there are extreme changes in outside temperature - which penetrates the edges of the slab and varies with the time-of-day - with relatively constant temperature inside. If the tile is bonded directly to the concrete as those temperature changes take place it will begin to spall and separate - not good as even a few fractions of an inch of difference will be enough to break the bond between the tile and the concrete. Were it up to me, I would install a strain-relief (AKA underlayment) with the new tile. There are liquid applications (Laticrete) and sheet goods (Durock) which come to mind and are very effective as a bond-breaker yet give a solid, reliable surface to hold the tile. These are only two of many and are linked below.
Q: I‘m on a tight budget but some people say tile is better I dont know which is best and will last longer and easy to maintain Any ideas what to do?
Tile looks better, but linoleum is cheaper. Linoleum can bubble up too. I pulled up my living room carpet and have nothing but the hard wood floor now, it needs finished or something else put down, but I don't have the money right now, I'm just waiting to get enought money to put down some laminate wood. You could wait and save for tile or just go with the linoleum if you want it done right away. Good luck!
Q: When the stick on tiles have come loose you get ready to re-glue them. What exactly do you clean the cement under neath them or do you just scrape it clean?
Acetone is a very strong solvent that will kill and loosen most adhesives. It will burn and dry out skin so use some chemical resistant gloves when using ( same with xylol or most other chemicals). If the tile are good and you just want to re-glue them, I'd suggest using some vinyl glue adhesive to glue down the tile. That will probably be your best glue to use. Just make sure to read and follow the instructions because the good glue works like a contact glue - it must dry for a while before laying the tile. I hope that this helped you out.

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