Digital glazd full polished tiles porcelain looks like marble prices 8043

Digital glazd full polished tiles porcelain looks like marble prices 8043

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1000 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Quick Details

Type:	Tiles	Place of Origin:	Fujian China (Mainland)	Brand Name:	SLD
Model Number:	8043	Size:	600 x 600mm,800 x 800mm	Material:	Porcelain Tiles
Usage:	Interior Tiles	Function:	Acid-Resistant,Antibacterial,Heat Insulation,Non-Slip,Firebrick,Wear-Resistant	Surface Treatment:	Glazed Tiles
Feature:	Glazed Metallic Tiles	Color Family:	Blacks,Blues,Browns / Tans,Grays,Oranges,Purples / Lavenders,Reds / Pinks,Whites,Yellows / Golds	Tile Type:	Floor Tiles
color:	polished	thickness:	9.8mm	carton weight:	30KGS
packing:	carton with pallet with fumigation	payment terms2:	L/C at sight	payment terms1:	30% deposit,balance against the copy of BL
surface color:	polished	finished:	3d printing	Scope:	bathroom floor,kitchen floor ,living room
design:	we can do any design accord to customer need

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Carton with pallet 4pcs/ctn,30kgs 1.44m2/ctn 1900ctn/TEU about 1296SQM
Delivery Detail:	20 days

Specifications

1.Size: 600 x 600 mm
2.Thickness: 9.8 mm
3.W/A: E<0.5%
4.Picking: 4pcs/ctn

Inkjet Full Polished Glazed Ceramic Tile tiling

1. Product description:

Model No.:	8043
Tile type:	Full polised galzed porcelain tile
Material:	porcelain
Size(MM) :	600x600mm
Water Absorption:	<0.5%
Color:	Available in all designs and colors
Usage:	Used in floor
Payment:	T/T or L/C at sight
Packing:	Packing: 4pcs/ 1.44M²/ 20KGS/CTN 900ctns/ 1296SQM/ 20GP with pallet
Surface treatment:	Glazed or polished surface according to difference material
Remark:	All kind of designs can be produced according to our product list

3. Product features:

1) Professional 3D inkjet floor tiles manufacturer
2) Anti-acid and anti-alkali
3) Durable
4) Pollution free
5) Easy to clean, easy to pave
6) Customize any design you like.
7) The most competitive price.

8) Easy to install, anti-dust

4. Packing list

Sizes (mm)	PCS/CTN	SQM/CTN	KGS/CTN	CTN/CONT	KGS/CONT	SQM/20GP
600x600x9.8mm	4	1.44	30	900	27000	1296
800x800x9.8mm	3	1.92	43	630	27090	1209.6

Q: In my home, we have polished tiles. My kid has fall-down most of the time. Can anyone help me to remove polish from ceramic tiles?: You do not want to do this for two reasons. One is that it will take away all the protection from the tile that allows the tile itself to be water proof and stain proof. Take away the glaze and the tile will stain. The second reason is that the glaze provides most of the tile body strength. A couple of things to help prevent tiles from being slick.. Remove all wet shoes and keep the floor dry. Hard with kids I know. Anti slip area rugs helps. And lastly there are products that you can use in the mop water that helps the tiles from being slick. B -Safe is one OTC product that is commercially rated that you can use day to day. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: I laid a new porcelain tile floor in my bathroom. Old linoleum tile floor was in good shape so I just laid right over the top of it. All turned out well except around the toilet. Two of the tile cracked when I screwed the toilet back down to the floor. Obviously I‘ll have to pull the toilet again, remove cracked tiles and start over....but how to I avoid the cracks again?: The floor under the toilet wasn't level so when the weight of the toilet went on top of the tiles it caused the tiles to crack. Make sure the tiles are back buttered as well as thinset on the floor and that they are level with each other. I would cut out any vinyl from around the toilet and then apply the tiles. Also wail for the thinset to dry for a couple days before installing the toilet so the tiles don't move.

Q: How to choose a good tiles: This is the urban construction decoration senior mud master Wu said. Because difficult to cut the brick on behalf of the more dense brick, the higher the hardness, the quality is better. But the high hardness of the brick will cut some of the trouble, like some imported tiles, to use imported blade cutting, but also on the Mason Master's craft requirements are also high. In addition, you can also see the tile on the side of the granules are fine evenly, granules large, rough, then the brick body density crisp, the use of the process will certainly be a problem. Whether the tiles are resistant to nails is known to use nails to identify the wear resistance of the surface of the tiles, but also Douglas manager recommended a method of identification is to take the nail on the surface of the brick, if the plan will not appear scratched tiles , Indicating that the hardness is high enough with the wear resistance, plus glaze is good, the quality will naturally be guaranteed.

Q: I want 12x12 tiles on the floor of the bathroom. But on the countertop (small, less than 6sqt) should I do large tiles, or smaller tiles of a similar style? And for the backsplash, should it be the same as the counter or the floor? Not so good with the design aspect. :): All your tile selections should co-ordinate but do not need to match exactly. I like the big tiles on the floor but not on the counters and back splash. The large tile will make those areas seem out of scale. I'd go with a similar tile but in a smaller size on the counter and back splash and see if you can find some accent tile to work into your design of the back splash. All it takes is a band of something like natural stone, glass tile or a textured tile to kick it up a notch and by using the more expensive tile sparingly, you're not increasing your costs but certainly increasing the eye appeal.

Q: What are the dimensions of the tile?: According to the use of space in three categories: the following are in mm (mm) as a unit Outer wall: 100X100,150X150,50X100,50X150,200X200,200X300,300X300 Inside wall tiles: 100X100,100X200,100X250,150X250,200X300,250X300,250X400,300X450, (large size wall is the most recently used more.) 300X600,400X800 Floor tiles: 300X300, 300X600, 330X330, 333X333, 400X400, 400X800, 450X450, 450X900, 500X500, 600X600, 600X900, 800X800, 1000X1000, 1200X1200. and so: 1, that is basically an integer, and is an integer ending in 0 and 5. this is correct. In addition to antique tiles (330X330, 333X333) 2, an edge of 40cm, the other side is greater than 40cm tile more? Answer is not much, there are two: 250X400 wall tiles 400X800 tiles 3, inside the bathroom with 20 * 40 more? Used to use more, but now very few manufacturers do, from the aesthetic point of view of this specification does not look good, now with more is 250X400, 300X450. These two inner wall.

Q: Is it possiable to stain or paint a ceramic tile floor. If so what are the steps I need to take to do it.We laid it about a year ago. My husband picked it out and it just does not look good next to the other tile he put in. I would hate to rip it out and lay a new one.Would the paint sets you buy at home depot for your garage floors work?: Your tile is most probably a glazed ceramic, meaning no paints would be able to penetrate to the biscuit. This means that all your paint would flake off over time. There is a glue on the market called Optima, and it is made by ABA Ardex. This glue comes in two parts, and it enables you to tile directly over tile. It isn't cheap though, so be weary when doing large areas. Other than that, most flexable glues would work if you remove 80% of the glaze, which means taking a grinder to the floor, which is hard and DIRTY work. If you were to do this, I would reccommend Abaflex.

Q: Have you used the marble tiles, the quality, the price?: 5. Try the water. Consumers can pour some water on the back of the tiles, pay attention to observe the speed of water absorption of tiles. After a few minutes, look at the positive water left the mark is obvious. After the water is spread, the density of the tiles is so long, and the water is not obvious. 6. Warping. Take two brick back to the back and face to face to see whether it can be in close contact with the phenomenon of excessive gap can determine whether there is warping. 7. infiltration. Find ink painted on the surface after 1 hour after scrub to see if there are traces, no trace is a good brick, there is a strong choice of infiltration.

Q: I accidentally tiled over an outlet cover. What can I do to fix this issue with out having to remove all the tile?: I'm guessing you probably put backer board down and forgot to cut the receptacle hole. If you can figure out which tile it's behind you can strike the tile in the center hard enough to break it and then use a hammer and chisel to chisel out the pieces. The backer board will chisel out easily. If you don't know the exact location you may have to remove more than one. That's OK because the mortar is probably still a little soft.The other option would be to use a 4 grinder and cutting wheel to cut the tile and backer board out with. If all that works out then you'll probably need to replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet if it's near a water source. Good luck

Q: For some reason I‘m having a hard time finding a good DIY instruction page on how to remove floor tile. Half of them are about removing just one damaged tile and the rest all have different methods. Some say to place a towel on top of it and smash with something, others have different machines. I‘m not really sure where to start. The space is about 5‘ x 5‘ and the tiles are the tiny kind, like 1 sq. inch each. What tools do I need? Do people usually tile underneath wooden vanities? Will I have to take it up? Help!: First stop should be a Home Depot or Revy or whatever building supplier you have near you. They will know and have the tools you might need and could give good advice on the easiest removal. Unfortunately there are no magically easy ways to do this. If you are able to attack an edge, good for you. Use a good, sturdy scraper. Perhaps even one that you will be able to use a hammer on the end of. Then it is just simply a matter of elbow grease and determination. Actually, a 5' X 5' space will come off fairly quickly once you get started. If you are not able to start at an edge, you will have to make one by chiselling out a few tiles until you can get your sturdy scraper working again. just scrape a few grout lines and pry out some tiles. Please wear safety glasses and gloves throughout this whole procedure. These things will chip and have very sharp edges. The next part is to be sure that you scrape off all of the thinset (glue) that was holding the tiles down. You are now almost ready to re-tile, if that is your goal. If it is, then just be sure that the area is solid and clean and you are good to go. As for tiling under a vanity . . . some do and some don't. New home bulders certainly don't in order to keep costs down. It certainly is not necessary as long as the vanity will be the right height after you are done. There could be a 1/4 to 1/2 inch height difference due to the thickness of the tiles. Hope this helps. George

Q: The bathroom tile in my recently purchased house isn‘t finished. The previous owner used floor tile to surround the tub; he/she left many pieces of tile unfinished, but luckily left us a stack of the tiles so we could finish it off. However, we don‘t have an unlimited supply of these tiles, so we‘d like to get it right with as few tries as possible!I‘m wondering: -I need to fit the tub faucet and knobs within two 12 square tiles. What‘s the best way to measure the placement of the fixtures? Is it possible to make some sort of template that I could transfer to the tiles? -Can I make the cuts for the fixtures using a hacksaw-type tile saw blade, or should I buy a tile drill bit? (I realize it rather depends on where the fixtures fall within the tile-- but if I don‘t need to buy both, I won‘t waste my money. )Thanks!: By making some tiles out of cardboard, then placing them in their proper position, will show you where to use a ceramic hole-saw on the real tile to make good holes. I have also seen tile setters cut the tile in two places, intersecting at the centre of the hole. Then use a plier-like nibbling tool to remove the necessary material [ please where safety glasses for this ], when finished the cut lines are barely noticeable, especially if it is done in least conspicuous place. Another option is if you were to go to a professional tile setter, with your clearly marked tiles, I'm fairly certain he/she would make your holes, for a fee.

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