• Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8301 System 1
  • Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8301 System 2
Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8301

Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8301

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Specification

Polished Porcellain Tile:
Polished Porcellain Tile

Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8301

Polished Porcellain Tile Double Loading Original Stone Serie CMAX-8301

 

Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Original Stone Serie White Color CMAX8301 is one of the most popular color, which is new and becoming more and more popular in the market now. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

 

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q: i have an area of tile covering one corner of my bedroom in my rented flat - will wallpaper stick to it?
Hmm sounds kinda hard because of the gaps between the tiles might make your wallpaper look blocky. Obviously it's best to remove the tiles first but if this is not possible, then go to home depot and ask someone there for advice. They know everything about homes!
Q: We bought a house that has a fully covered sunroom with large glass windows and metal framing. Right now i have ugly green caret in there, but i want tiles. Can i tile over a flat cement surface. What tiles do i use porcelan or ceramic? It gets below freezing in the winter time(NE Ohio) and i want to make sure that it could withstand some water.
Often Home-Depot ,Lowe's and others have a training season for doing tile , sheetrock , painting ... just check with your local store to see if they have these and when. I have gone to some and they are informative Yes, ceramic tile does go on cement very well
Q: We just bought a house and the bathroom tile looks terrible. Its not in bad shape, I just dont like the ugly floral pattern. Since we had to spend a lot of money on other projects in the house we dont have a lot to spend on re-tiling, The bathroom is small, about 5ftx4ft of floor, so I thought peelstick would be a good option. The tiles currently on the floor are peel and stick, should I remove them all before I apply the new ones? or can I just give them a good cleaning and lay the new tiles over them?
You are in for a long project if you try to pull those tiles up. If they are all firmly down (no corners peeling) it is going to be a chore to get them all up. They will not come off in even chunks. If you do decide to take this on, you might want to consider real tile after you pour a floor leveler down (vs trying to replace a new peel and stick on what will be an uneven surface.) My advice is for a quick fix, peel and stick over the current floor (off center the tiles from the ones down now). When you decide to do a more major overhaul, 2 layers of peel and stick tiles with not be any more difficult to remove than one layer. It's a quick fix and should work fine for you. I did both my laundry and basement peel and stick over existing peel and stick tiles 2 years ago--no problems in what is a moisture filled area. Clean the floor really well though with a vinegar and water solution. Good luck.
Q: We will be tiling a backsplash directly onto drywall after our countertops are installed. My question is -- what do I do about the electrical outlets in that area? The tile is about 1/4 inch thick -- and I want the outlets even with the tile (right?) After I tile around the outlet openings, then how do you make them flush when you put everything back together? For example, do I just pull the sockets out so that the screw brackets sit on top of the tile? If so, then do I need to drill screw holes through the tile? If so, then how do I make sure that the tile does not break or crack?
when you take the cover off there is that metal part the switch or the plug is on and there is little ears like that has a screw on the bottom and on top so you're going to unscrew those screws and you're tile should be cut to fit behind those ears you would need longer screws i use course Sheetrock screws when i do this 11/2 should work and when cut the tile around the plug just make sure you don't cover the hole where the screw would go in to that's all it'll be easy when you get the hang of it tile and flooring expert
Q: I just installed a backsplash in my kitchen. It is glass mosaics with slate - 1x1. Today I began grouting and after it sat for 2 hours ( as instructed) I began wiping it down with a wet sponge. After scrubbing it for about an hour there is still a considerable amount of grout on the tiles - especially the slate. I used non sanded grout which is recommended for my tiles, but it will not come off! What can I do to remove the grout off of these tiles without scratching them? Please help. Thankyou
I don t know who told you 2 hrs but that's totally wrong.He/ she should be shot or fired for telling you that. I d suggest a sanded grout for a slate, even a small 1x1 but with the glass tiles, you have to be careful not to scratch them. Did you seal the slate prior to setting or at least grouting?The grout my be clinging to the unsealed slate as well. At this point vinegar and water will not touch it. Start by scrapping off excess with a pc of wood or a plastic scraper.Don t use any thing metal. Once the excess is off, get a cleaner specifically for grout clean up.Hydroment makes a product called Remove but you can find other products were tile products are sold. Any other questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: We‘re renovating an old house, and the ceramic tile on the bathroom walls is just awful. I‘d like to replace the wall tile with beadboard. The tiles appear to be mortared directly onto the drywall. Is it a good idea to install the beadboard directly over the ceramic tile? Or should we chip of the tile or remove the lower portion of the drywall? I‘d like to do this as easily as possible, but not at the risk of shoddy workmanship.Also - all the beadboards I‘ve looked at are either painted or primed on the front surface, with a bare wood surface on the rear (glued to the wall). Is it advisable to paint/prime the rear surface as well before installation? With all the steam and moisture in a bathroom, I can envision the panels buckling. Is there a particular paint/primer that seals off from moisture particularly well?
I'm just a DIYer but I've laid some tile and installed beadboard (both the panels and the planks). I am getting ready to do exactly what you ask about.. vering tile with beadboard. In my situation I have a single row of tiles along the floor and then they run up and around the tub into the large field. That field is staying, for now. My issue is if I leave the tiles, which I am leanng towards, how do I frame out arund them. The tiles along the floor aren't a big deal, I'll just fir out from the top but along the vertical row I need to figure out a good looking transition and trim....but there's no reason you can's cover the tile if the surface is sound, and the area is dry. You are probably using the panels because you need to glue directly to the tile...and there may be some buckling, not because its a bathroom but just because this material can buckle. The panels are a better choice, imo, because the are thicker and have some adjustment to them. They aren't hard to cut or install and I think they just look better. You probably don't need to seal the individual boards, but as others have noted, a coat of something, anything really, on the backside of the panels won't hurt. Balance that, however, against the loss of adhesion for your glue.
Q: My grandpa‘s bathroom needs to have a few adjustments made to it, namely safety bars put in place around the tub to help him in and out. The problem: every wall is covered in glazed tile (which I know makes a difference) and the bars need to be screwed in.My question is this: how? I know that using just a drill bit will shatter the tile, even a carbide one because the tile‘s glazed.Thanks much, kisses and ten points to the best answer.
you got to get the screws in wall studs or they will just fail as soon as any weight is put on the bars. drilling thru a ceramic wall tile --- that part is easy.
Q: Do I want to use the concavity of a marble tiles to make a TV backdrop, right? Help designers,
This is not very good to do, consider the next hand-painted, the effect is good, I also Nanning,
Q: I want to add a backsplash with a 4x4 ceramic tile. I only want to go up 1 or 2 tiles in height not the whole wall area. Edges of the tiles are not black for the unfinished ceramic. How do I make the edges look finished or black also?
put cap over the top row of tiles. the cap tiles are usually 2 inches high by 6 inches long and they go right on top of the top row of tiles.
Q: I have a 10 gallon tank for my adult female leopard gecko, and I have these two tiles for the substrate. I am going to fill in the cracks between the two tiles with sand so it will look nice, i want your guys input on this please.
There are many different things to put as a floor. the most natural for a grown leopard gecko is sand.you should ask at your local pet store or just look at a book on bedding for leopard geckos. If you would like, you can also get a carpet for lizards only (they sell different size carpets for different sized tanks). I have never heard of tiles and floors for them, but how long have you had it like that? is it as simple to clean as sand? i personally think it should be all sand when they are grown.... but research best bedding for them. There are many options. hope this helps and good luck :)

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches