Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Stone Serie Beige Color CMAX23602

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Stone Serie Beige Color CMAX23602

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Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 700 m²

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Stone Serie White Color CMAX26601 is one of the most popular color of Pilate Stone Serie, which is one popular serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Product Features

Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

Only Grade AAA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 85 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

Packing & Production Line

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Stone Serie Beige Color CMAX23602

FAQ

1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q:I‘ve seen on many different DIY shows that you can get used tiles that are still in good condition (from a certain place, I just can‘t seem to remember the word) to use in your projects.: Most tile stores throw out tiles every week. They throw out sample boards and broken tiles and generally you can go dumpster diving and pick up quite a few. Some stores will give them to you if you ask. I used to work at a tile store and we threw out tons of tiles all the time. The large stores like Home Depot sometimes have rules that they won't give anything broken away or even sell it but it's worth asking because they're all different. You may be able to find a Habitat Re-Store that has some as well. When they tear out old houses they often recycle rather than toss the items.

Q:My bathroom in my new house has the ugliest green tile halfway up the wall and then a different shade of green tile on the floor. My husband I have a little experierience with fixing stuff up, but this one has us puzzled. We want to tear the tile down and put up drywall. Then we‘d like to carpet the floor. We haven‘t got the nerve yet cause we don‘t know what to expect behind those tiles on the wall. Got ANY suggestions in my little dilemma???: If the tiles go all the way around the room, measure up 4' at each corner. Use a chalk line or level to make a horizontal line around the room. All hardware below this line should be removed. Towel bars, heat register covers, cabinets, toilet, door trim, etc. If the wall is drywall, you could cut along this line with a drywall hand saw. If you have access to a sawzall (reciprocating saw), the process will go quick. (If you're handy, you should have this tool). To avoid cutting wires, pipes, pay close attention when cutting. Lay tool against wall in line with chalk line. Start blade, slowly, then lower blade to line. Now tilt blade inward. CAUTION. Go only as deep as needed to penetrate wall. If you go deeper, you risk cutting wires or plumbing. Now pull saw along line around perimiter of room. Safety glasses are recommended during cuttiing and removal. Use hammer to make hole in wall just below cut line. Using Gloves, pull sections of drywall and tile by hand as much as possible. If screws remain in the studs hit with a hammer at a 45% angle. they should break off. If it's nails, you should pull them. Floor tiles will come up with a flat pry bar and a hammer. Just pick a spot along an edge. Use a couple sharp blows with hammer to start, then use flat bar and hammer to peel out floor tile and grout. Hope this motivates you to go for it.

Q:Remodeling a bathroom, using 4x4 ceramic wall tiles and have an old porcelain wall-mount sink.QUESTION: Do I put screws through the tile and put the mount OVER the tile, hanging the sink that way OR do I hang the sink on the untiled wall and tile around it?Thanks for your help!: TJ is right -- not only will it look better, if you tile around it water splash from the sink will eventually permeate the grout and damage the wall. Plus the sink can later be removed for an upgrade without damaging the wall,

Q:I‘m planning to tile up my space. It‘s a 27 square meters. I‘ve calculated the number of tiles. It will be around 140 to 150 pieces with extra tiles. How much or how many bags of tile adhesive will I consume for the 27 square meters space using 150 pieces of tiles? or What is the area a bag of tile adhesive could cover? Can you show me a computation.: You don t say what size tile it is and what your going over as far as a substrate. It makes a difference. Since I familiar with the coverage in s/f and your post suggests you came from the states I ll use a s/f format and some generalizations. Assuming you have a larger tile you should be using a larger notched trowel.1/4x3/8 but you may want to use a larger 1/2x1/2. I ll go off of a 1/4x3/8 trowel. A standard 50# bag of thin set will cover an area of 60/70 s/f using a 1/4x3/8 trowel. Splitting the difference and using 65 s/f per bag, divide 65 into the 290 s/f you have. Or 4.46 bags. So you ll need 5 , 50# bags of thin set using a 1/4x3/8 trowel. If your using a different size trowel , all bags have a coversion chart on the back to figure your coverage. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:Im looking into renovating our kitchen and thought i would cut some costs with doing some renovating ourselves. Is tiling easy to do yourself, how is it done and what surfaces can they be laid on?Thanks: Tiling is pretty easy, but the easiest way to find out about it is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a book for approximately $20.00 that will give you step by step help. Then, if you still have questions, the people that work at the pro desk can usually help you the most. Unfortunately, it is hard to explain when you need to see some of the things. You will need a special tile cutter to cut the tile, and a trowel and a bag of spacers. Then get yourself the tile, the thinset to glue the tile and the grout to go in between it. You can lay it directly on concrete. If you have a wood floor, they recommend a hardy backer board between the wood and the tile. You can get by without the backer board if you're very careful. When done, you will need to apply a sealer to the grout.

Q:I dont know if the cabinets are to large width wise... so I might need to trim the tile?: Cutting the tiles that are already set is difficult to do and messy. Making a clean strait cut that will butt up to the cabinets is tough to do. If you slip and score the tops of the tiles you won't be able to fix them. You might want to try and build up the floor behind the cabinets to the height of the tiles and put the cabinets on top. That will probably be the easiest way. Any color tile will work since they will be behind the cabinets and unnoticed. I would go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a box of returned tiles (much cheaper that way) and a pail of Thinset. You can apply the thinset to each tile individually and use a 4' level to make sure the height is good.

Q:I have hot water radiant heat in a concrete slab that leaks occasionally so I can‘t put carpet on it. Do I dare put ceramic tile over it? Maybe the tile would keep the moisture down.: You could I would do some research though you need to make sure its not a water soluble adhesive and that the ceramic tile wont get super hot. I know that ceramic is very hard and it should stand up. I am not sure about the adhesive though you would have to ask someone about that. Some one at like Lowe's or home depot should be able to tell you that though. Lay some of the tile out and let it sit on the floor see if it is the best material to use for tile and if it holds the heat like you want it to.

Q:My house is 55 years old. They had vinyl floring in the bathroom. We wanted to replce the flooring but when we hauled up the vinyl, theres 2inch ceremic tiles underneath. I think the vinyl was glued down because the tiles are a mess. We bought some vinyl flooring to put back down. Whats the best way to do this? We were going to but 1/4 round but now the floors are tile underenath, and the walls are tile as well so we can‘t nail it in.: Yes it has been done. However, you must cover all bases first. Check the solidity thickness of the existing floor. Tile needs a good solid base for support. After all, it's much heavier than vinyl. Make certain the entire sub floor is level, or your tile will crack. Tile over vinyl is thick won't match the the height of adjoining floor. You'd need a raised threshold to help it look less conspicuous. It's far easier to remove old floor replace with sturdy sub floor than to cut, chop, chip rip all tile floor later. It may seem easier right now, but check this out: ~m~

Q:I am looking at putting the self stick vinyl tiles in my new addition. It has a concrete floor and I was wondering if the vinyl will have a hard time sticking to the concrete. Do I need some type of sub-floor? I am wondering this mainly because we live in iowa were is can get pretty cold in the winter and I didn‘t know if that would affect the stickyness.: I think your bigger problem would be moisture. If this is in a basement there's a good chance that moisture could seep beneath the tiles and make the glue separate. A subfloor will significantly add to the cost, but it would keep the basement warmer, and lessen the chance of damage to the tiles. Be sure you build the subfloor out of treated wood though, or you could have rot/termites/many more problems.

Q:CAN YOU LAY TILE OVER TILE: If your existing tile is tight to the floor and in good shape (no cracks, loose tile, loose grout) yes you can. You need to use a thin set with a very high latex content like TEC Superflex. Be sure that the existing tile and grout is perfectly clean and there are no sealers left on the grout. This is an industry accepted method.

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