• Pilate Stone 600 Polished Porcelain Tile From China System 1
Pilate Stone 600 Polished Porcelain Tile From China

Pilate Stone 600 Polished Porcelain Tile From China

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1324 carton
Supply Capability:
1324000 carton/month

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Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

 

Pictures

 

 

 

Pilate Stone 600 Polished Porcelain Tile From China

Pilate Stone 600 Polished Porcelain Tile From China

Pilate Stone 600 Polished Porcelain Tile From China

 

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q: If you can tile on top do i need to prepare the old tile surface?
of course you can. You need to prepare properly and use the correct adhesives. For further information visit the tilerworld forum
Q: I recently put in a wood stove. It was professionally installed and certified to meet fire regulations. I don‘t know anything really about the install just that it doesn‘t require any r value underneath it. It just requires a pad for embers. There was a long waiting list to get it installed but an opening came up and we got it installed sooner than we planned. So we didn‘t get the tiling done. Currently it is sitting on a base made with 2x6s spaced 6 apart covered with 3/4 plywood and a sheet of durock cement board attached with durock screws and all seems taped with durock tape and covered with durock cement plaster. I want to finish it with tile. However, the stove is too heavy for us to lift. Its a pedestal woodstove so would it look okay tile up to the pedestal? If so how much space should I leave against the pedestal? What should I put in the gap? High-heat caulking? I‘m very new to this so any advice is welcomed. Thanks!
You will be better off if you remove the stove and tile. See if they installers can come back out and set it aside , be sure to make where the feet set first, measure and write down so that the feet doesn't sit on a joint . It will make to job make better,
Q: What‘s the average cost to install tile baseboards? I‘m replacing my wooden baseboards with tile and was just wondering what an average price to just do the baseboards with tile. I have roughly 1500 inches of floorboard that is going to be done and I am looking to use 20 X 20 inch tile. No bullnoseing or anything special, just cut the tile and install.Thanks
Michael G makes a good point. If it was me, the price would be more like $750+, because I'd have to cut the tile, and do layout, apply it, then grout it. the top edge grout is a real pain, and poses the biggest challenge to get it right. Most customers always seem to find fault in that one issue. Of course, If I was doing the whole job instead of just the base tile, that price would be more reasonable, being factored in with the overall job. a Comment to the other poster: A lot of people prefer tile base to wood/paper (most base is hard paper nowadays), simply because of water or liquid spills that can affect drywall and baseboards. by using a tile base, this makes the wall less likely to suffer as much damage as could occur without it in place. Besides, most tile bases compliment the tile floor job, and colors. Likewise, I get a lot of callbacks because customers, after looking at tile base for a while, want me to come back in and set tiles up the wall, which means less wall maintenance issues, no need to paint, mold is less likely to form and become an issue, and people sitting in a chair with the heads against the wall is less likely to smudge it, as well as kid issues with markers and crayons.
Q: The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!
This is going to be messy. Usually the tiles will break when removing them, if they were properly installed in the first place. Some tile may not break but the mastic will stick to either the tile or backer board. The mastic must be scraped off. Over all it would be simpler to just demo the old tile and start over.
Q: Do you have, or know someone who has these tiles in the bathroom? What is their experience?
They will probably work okay as long as your surface is good so the adhesive works, but a much better product is the new type of vinyl tiles which stick to each other but not to the floor. You won't have any adhesion problems, and water cannot get between the tiles. Trafficmaster at Home Depot is one type. That is the one I have and it has been excellent. It's been in my kitchen and both bathrooms for 5 years and is showing no signs of lifting anywhere. I really don't know why anyone would bother with the old peel 'n' stick type of tile any more.
Q: Have you used the marble tiles, the quality, the price?
5. Try the water. Consumers can pour some water on the back of the tiles, pay attention to observe the speed of water absorption of tiles. After a few minutes, look at the positive water left the mark is obvious. After the water is spread, the density of the tiles is so long, and the water is not obvious. 6. Warping. Take two brick back to the back and face to face to see whether it can be in close contact with the phenomenon of excessive gap can determine whether there is warping. 7. infiltration. Find ink painted on the surface after 1 hour after scrub to see if there are traces, no trace is a good brick, there is a strong choice of infiltration.
Q: The tile in my shower floor got torn apart
use a stanley knife to scrape out the grout.remove the tile using a hammer and a bulster or a old chissel always work from the middle avoiding damage to the other tiles.next use the hammer and bolster to chip up all the old adhesive next spread the new tile adhesive on the new tile lay it and check that its not sticking out in front of the other tiles.make sure its level with them.once dry after a thew hours then you can grout it.
Q: i‘m seventeen and my family is moving into a new house soon. I get my own bathroom and would like to redo it a little bit, because it looks like it is straight out of that seventies show. we are going to have to go pretty cheap on the interior design because of the big purchase, so it cant be anything too expensive. the only real problem is the walls of the bathroom are tiled.
You might try tile tattoos. They are easy to install and make your own pattern. Here's where I got mine.
Q: After laying the tile I noticed that they have a hazy patch which appears unglazed in each tile. Is there a substance that I could apply to give the tiles an even look?
Glazed porcelain or a true porcelain? If it is a glazed porcelain ( my guess) and you have spots that are un glazed, this is a manufacture defect and the tile (s) will have to be replaced. If this is just a grout haze there are cleaning methods you can do to get the grout ff. But other than that, there is nothing you can do other than replace tiles. If you bought the tiles at a regular flooring store, the manager or sales rep from that tile maker should be sent out to inspect it. With out knowing more its hard to say what else you can do. Any questions you cn e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: The bathroom tile in my recently purchased house isn‘t finished. The previous owner used floor tile to surround the tub; he/she left many pieces of tile unfinished, but luckily left us a stack of the tiles so we could finish it off. However, we don‘t have an unlimited supply of these tiles, so we‘d like to get it right with as few tries as possible!I‘m wondering: -I need to fit the tub faucet and knobs within two 12 square tiles. What‘s the best way to measure the placement of the fixtures? Is it possible to make some sort of template that I could transfer to the tiles? -Can I make the cuts for the fixtures using a hacksaw-type tile saw blade, or should I buy a tile drill bit? (I realize it rather depends on where the fixtures fall within the tile-- but if I don‘t need to buy both, I won‘t waste my money. )Thanks!
I'll try to answer this in layman's terms as best i can.. Take one tile and hold it exactly square with the tile just above the faucet Knob. Take another tile and put the edge of it dead center in the middle of the faucet knob(this will take another person to lend a helping hand obviously).The other edge of the piece of tile you are holding on the center of the faucet knob will come to exactly where you want to put the center bit of the tile hole cutter so mark that with your pencil take the piece your holding square on the tile above the faucet knob down and cut your hole using a tile hole saw bit that is slightly larger in diameter than the faucet knob.. Sorry if this sounds complicating but i think once you start doing it you'll see how easy it is.. Good luck..

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