• Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 System 3
Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603

Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 is one of the most popular color of Line Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Full glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603


FAQ

               

    1. Q: May I have my own design?

      A: Of course. But the pictures or samples of the products should be offered by your party.

    2. Q: May I ask for some samples?

      The samples are free. You just need to pay for samples’ courier cost.

    3. Q: Can wall tile be used on the floor?

      A: Not in most cases. Please check with your installer or YIJIANG for application recommendations.

    4. Q: Can floor tile be used on the wall?

      A: Yes. Exterior applications require special precautions and installation methods. Please check with your installer or YIJIANG for application recommendations.



Q: We are building a tile shower and we have gotten it framed the way we want it. We haven‘t installed the backerboard or tiles yet, just the studs are placed. Do we need to backerboard and tile the sides where the door will be, or can we install the shower door directly to the bare wood studs?
Tile out even with the threshold. Your bull nosing (SBN) should come right down atop your sill so that every thing will line up. You then can drill w/ a masonry bit thru the tile or grout line and into the studding thats at the end of the sill. Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications GL
Q: It‘s been a while since I have done tile, but I remember we used to use sheetrock to cover the floor or for back splash wall, however I don‘t remember what it was used for. Is there special cases when you need to use it or do I need to use it every time? What is the purpose to use the sheetrock?Please help. Thanks.
It may have been sheetrock that you remember but more than likely it was some type of special backer product that resembled Sheetrock but was made specifically for use under tile. There are several types available at Lowe's like hardibacker or durarock. Both of these products are designed to be placed on the surface to be tiled before the tile is applied and act to stiffen the substrate. In other words they make the surface that the tile goes onto into one big solid piece as opposed to several sheets of plywood. The benefit of this is that is keeps the tiles from moving in relation to each other which will cause the grout lines in between them to crack and gap. These products are generally put down, when tiling floors, on top of a layer of mortar same as you spread mortar to hold the tiles down. Ans then these backer boards are nailed down with roofing nails and the joints are mortared and usually taped like drywall joints are. Then more mortar is spread on top of these boards and the tile is set into this mortar. Floors generally use the 1/4 thick backer board and when applying on walls the 1/2 backer is used. Just nail to the studs and paint with a waterproofing paint then mortar and apply tiles. Good Luck.
Q: I want to lay tiles on my concrete driveway, is that possible. I don't want to hire the expert to demolish the concrete, pave it with gap sand and the usual stuffs. I know how to do indoor tiles layering, but wasn't sure regular tiles will hold up 3 tons of vehicle weighs. Anyone knows any other way. Thanks.
You can tile the sides of your driveway, but I don't reccomend tiling the entire driveway. You can use bricks for your driveway...but thats the only thing you can use besides concrete and tar. Anything else will be a hassle and will cost useless money.
Q: therefore creating a gap in the center of the wall for grouting... or tiling one tile and grouting it with the gap at the wall and the next tile side putting a grout line down that way
the answer is yes you need that gap.
Q: Why should the tiles be soaked before the tiles?
Tile water method: to find a large basin, so that the brick can be completely immersed. However, we must pay attention to gently, to prevent the porcelain out of porcelain. Tile soaked in water is to prevent the absorption of water cement mortar moisture, so as not to cause hollowing, shedding, and even cracks, especially for the wall paving, wall paving before the need for water sprinkler work, is the truth The Tiles more or less there will be some pores, before the shop soaked in water, is to allow its pores full of water, and porcelain tiles because of the larger density, porosity is much smaller, also makes the water absorption is very low.
Q: The grout in my bathroom is cracking bad and i just had it installed a little over a year ago. I called a different tile guy to look at it and tell me why its cracking. So im trying to figure out who riped me off or whos trying to rip me off. this new tile guy said the grout is cracking because the other tile guy didnt pull the old vinyl up. I remember the other tile guy told me that the vinyl was my moisture barrier so i didnt need anything put on the floor other than the glue ( or whatever you call it) So this new tile guy is saying thats the reason why my grout is cracking because he needed to pull up the old vinyl and the grout would continue to crack until that was done. So that means i need my whole floor re-done with new tile.....so is this new tile guy telling me the truth. Can you install tile over vinyl?
Tile can be installed over vinyl, if the subfloor is rigid enough, but I don't recommend it. Thinset does not adhere well to vinyl. I have pulled up tile floors laid over vinyl, and they come up very easily, barely sticking at all. Your problem, most likely, is that your subfloor is not rigid enough. This may be caused by floor joist spacing being too wide, or subflooring being too thin. At a minimum, joist spacing should be 16 on center, subfloor should be 3/4 tongue and groove plywood with 1/2 cement backerboard screwed and glued to it with thinset. Older homes have 3/4 plank subfloors, and some newer homes have 5/8 plywood subfloors, neither of which is rigid enough. In either case, the fix would be to glue and staple 1/4 lauan over the subfloor. Staples should be 4 apart along the edges, and 8 apart in the field. Lots of glue. So, if it was me fixing your problem, I would pull up the tile and vinyl, do whatever is necessary to make the subfloor rigid, and relay the tile. And I highly recommend epoxy grout. It's costly, and a bit more difficult to work with, but the end result is vastly superior. It's super hard, keeps it's color, doesn't stain, and requires no sealer. Good Luck with your project, hope this helps...
Q: Why should a piece of tile stickers, why can not once on the ground to do a piece of tiles
A piece of easy to break is how to get the room? If a little bit how to do a piece of words can be changed
Q: 12x12 tiles, what size trowel do i use and how far apart do i space tiles?
Use a 1/4 space Trowel, The spacing for a normal Lay would be about 1/8 or 3/16 in which you'd use NON-sanded Grout. You decide on how much space you want,it changes the look and amount of grout you'll need, and more work as you go wider, Now, if you go as wide as 1/4 or 1/2 you'll need to use a Sanded Grout. Ask at the home center where you make your purchases, they are knowledgable in that department, The dept has all the accesories you need, the spacers, Trowel, Float and Sponges etc. For the Sealer, get one that is Penetrating sealer,
Q: how can i tile over linolium flooring without pulling it up?
Tap around the floor in a tight pattern. Loose spots will sound hollow. Cut them out completely with a sharp utility knife, angleing the knife away from the center of the spot you are cutting. Spred a floor prep, such as Ardex or Planipatch ( both portland cement based floor preps), over the floor to fill the holes and any pattern (you will need an 18 flat trowel). Spread the mix on the floor at a 45 degree angle. Scrape off the excess at a 60 to 70 degree angle. Work in a semicircle sweeping motion, leaving only what you need to fill the holes and pattern. The prep will get lighter as it dries, usually 20 - 45 miniutes depending on the size of the cutouts. All prep shrinks as it dries, so you may need to coat larger cutouts a second time. Scrape down any ridges with the edge of the trowell, use a low 5 to 10 degree angle to avoid gouging floor. Sweep floor thoroughly, at least twice, and vaccuum up pile. Then you are ready to set tile. Be sure to use the right notch size on the trowel for proper adhesion without squeez out mess. Also read the glue directions. Many glues need open time to tack up before setting tile. Doing this will make sure that you are getting the best adhesion possible. It will help to resist water damage, and it will keep the pattern of the vinyl from telescoping through the tile over long peroids of time.
Q: The bathroom tile in my recently purchased house isn‘t finished. The previous owner used floor tile to surround the tub; he/she left many pieces of tile unfinished, but luckily left us a stack of the tiles so we could finish it off. However, we don‘t have an unlimited supply of these tiles, so we‘d like to get it right with as few tries as possible!I‘m wondering: -I need to fit the tub faucet and knobs within two 12 square tiles. What‘s the best way to measure the placement of the fixtures? Is it possible to make some sort of template that I could transfer to the tiles? -Can I make the cuts for the fixtures using a hacksaw-type tile saw blade, or should I buy a tile drill bit? (I realize it rather depends on where the fixtures fall within the tile-- but if I don‘t need to buy both, I won‘t waste my money. )Thanks!
By making some tiles out of cardboard, then placing them in their proper position, will show you where to use a ceramic hole-saw on the real tile to make good holes. I have also seen tile setters cut the tile in two places, intersecting at the centre of the hole. Then use a plier-like nibbling tool to remove the necessary material [ please where safety glasses for this ], when finished the cut lines are barely noticeable, especially if it is done in least conspicuous place. Another option is if you were to go to a professional tile setter, with your clearly marked tiles, I'm fairly certain he/she would make your holes, for a fee.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches