• Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203 System 3
Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203

Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203 is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203

Polished Porcelain Tile Jagon Stone Series 26201/202/203

                                           

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

3. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

2). Better ETD and more stable price bacause we keep abundant stock for future needs.
3). Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.
4). Better warranty of products because we enjoy a reputation and we have got varies certificates and awards for our products.

 

4. What's the characteristics about porcelain tiles and glazed tiles? 

 

Glazed tiles are colorful, the effect is rather diverse, stain-slip, abrasion resistance but worse than the porcelain tiles. Long-term use may wear a large surface; porcelain tiles have the higher degree, long hard wear surface. Good performance and stable cleanup (before playing the best times to use the wax to improve stain resistance). The porcelain tiles are weaker performance in non-slip than glazed tiles. We should take attention on its anti-slip properties, face down in a tiled brick water testing.

 

5. How to choose bathroom tiles? Porcelain tiles or glazed tiles?

Currently used in the bathroom tiles with glazed tiles (mainly from price considerations, some high-end can choose tiles, notice to choose tiles), divided into Shinny and Matt two kinds. Light color makes people feel shinny, but the bathroom more appropriate to create a warm feeling, so the best choose is uses matte, the shinny feels more soft and not dazzling.


Q: so i was wanting to lay some ceramic tiles down in a small room. right now in the room i think theres vinyl tiles and they r laid right on top of the pplywood floor. so im just wondering am i able to just lay the ceramic tiles right on top of the plywood floor after i tear up scrape up the old floor? any advice?
the plywood is a subfloor. after you remove the vinyl. you should lay an underlayment before tiling. check at the tile store for instructions. Don't think you can do a quick cheap job on tiles because the tiles or grout lines will crack and you'll have to redo everything. The subfloor makes for a clean fresh starting surface and should be screwed down every few inches as per instructions.
Q: In a professionaly done job, what level of imperfection is acceptable. 12x12 porcellaine tile installed over backerboatd.at least a dozen tiles set either higher, lower, or tilted. Comapny says this is acceptable.
i have set hundreds of tile and have had 1000's set for me. i am a lic. gen contractor. NO! if its a matter of the tile tilted, thats bs. lower or higher, how much? 1/6th of an inch maybe. this is not acceptable in my line of work. 12 x 12 is very easy to lay. we just had installed 600 18 x 18 tile and u can lay a level across them anywhere and maybe a 1/16th will show under the level in places. i would tell the guy u r going to hire someone from the outside to come and look and that if they agree with u, ( thats its wrong ) that u r going to subtract that amount from the job. also give them the chance to fix the bad tile and if they will not then u will have someone do it and again subtract that from their billing. then instruct them that if they do not agree to that then they need to sue u for the amount of the job. inform them that u will counter sue for the cost of court-lawyer fees-and amount to have it done right. all of which is legal. lic. gen. contractor
Q: My kitchen has a white ceramic tile floor. It never looks clean, every speck of dirt shows. Because we live in a slab home, the tiles are glued right to the concrete. I hate to think how much work it would be to remove them. I could tile over - but it would make the kitchen floor higher than the surrounding rooms. Is there any suitable product for changing the color of the tile in such a high traffic area?
Have you considered a tile cleaning service? Replacing would take about a week. I would not tile over existing tile. There are products that can be applied over your existing tile that look exactly like a tile floor, but the process costs about the same and takes just as long as re-tiling. Also the person doing it really has to know what they are doing or the job can look terrible. Holmes on Holmes just did a show on the process and it appeared a bit complicated and does not allow much room for error. I'd either get them professionally cleaned or removed and re-tile.
Q: I am going to lay bathroom floor tiles in my bathroom but I have some questions before I start. 1. Can I lay the new tiles over the existing floor, which is vinyl flooring? Or do I have to remove that first? 2. If I have to remove the vinyl flooring do I have to add cement backer board? Or can I lay the tile right over whatever is under the vinyl flooring? 3. I have trim along that floor that I will be re-attaching, do I lay the tile right up to the wall or do I put a space in between the wall and the edge tile? Do I then grout into that space between the wall and the edge tile?
you actually *can* install ceramic tile over vinyl flooring, if the vinyl is in good shape and not coming up or bubbling. you would need to use a mutliflex thinset instead of a standard thinset for the ceramic tiles to stick. now this only works if the vinyl is over concrete. if it's over wood, then an underlayment is needed. if the vinyl is in poor shape, pull it up. if in doubt as to it's quality, pull it up. 1/4 or 1/2 hardibacker or durarock are your options for your underlayment. use a multiflex thinset to adhere to the vinyl or wood subfloor and screw the board down every 6 inches. if your floor is a concrete slab don't bother with the underlayment; just tile directly over the concrete. leave a slight gap from your tile to your wall, then install your base and/or shoe molding. grouting the space between the tile and wall would be a waste of time and grout. don't bother; the base will cover it. i agree with the 1/8 grout joint. a much better look to it than a larger joint. keep in mind the thinset rules: a tile up to 12 requires a 3/8 notch of thinset, a tile 16 to 18 needs a 1/2 notch, and anything over 18 requires a 3/4 notch. this guarantees that there will be no thinset adhesian failures. good luck!
Q: There is a broken tile in my hall, and two of them are loose. do I need to scrape off the old dry morter that was under them? What do I purchase to secure them? mortor, grout or? I noticed that grout comes in many colors- mine is the shade of sand. Also, the one tile has to have a cut out for the door - is there any other way to cut it than with a tile saw?
Yes, okorder /
Q: Our kitchen isn‘t that big and I hate the tile. My fiance says it‘s a huge big deal to remove the tile but not so hard to put new tile in.About how much does it run to remove tile, say from the average size kitchen.... it‘s about 7 foot by 18 feet.
it is not the tile removing that would cost the money,it is the making good afterwards as you need a straight flat wall/floor to be able to retile it.If your tiles are sound,well stuck and not falling apart/moving then tiling on top is an option.that creates it's own problems tho,in the end edge,on a wall where the tiles just stop, you will see 2 tiles thickness as opposed to one only.If it is floor tiling you talking about then you will have a small problem by the doors,where the new tiling will be a bit higher than whatever is on the other side of the door.If the tiles are stuck on marine ply,make sure you use flexible adhesive and grout for the new tiling.
Q: I live in a condo. The previous owner had off-white ceramic tile installed on the entire first level! I don‘t like it - can it be covered with hardwood or does all the tile need to come up? Thanks
This depends on a few things. Is it a completely flat surface or is the tile sculptural and have a wavy top surface? Would you consider a floating floor system? These are usually either laminates or engineered and can go over a foam sheeting which could be placed on top of the tile. You could also do a glue down depending on how flat the surface is, and if the tile is down well and not loose. A solid 3/4 thick nail down would not work well unless you took up the tile and made sure the sub floor was a good working surface. My choice in a condo would be to float a floor over a foam sheeting. Engineered although they have warranties probably will scratch etc and depending on what you choose may or may not be refinish-able. Plus in 10-15 years you may not be there and/or the tile may be in style again or carpet could come back or lighter colored flooring etc. Owning it, I would go with an inexpensive engineered, they are much richer looking than the laminates and you may appreciate that if you ever sell. He is right you will have to plane down doors and cut jams and also pop your moldings and reuse or replace them. But that is easier than tearing out tile even if it is on a nailed down wire system on plywood rather than backer board. And, flooring hieghts may differ because the thickness of the tile and together with what it was attached with, may not be the same as the floor you choose anyway. Sometimes in order to make up the difference they lost by taking out the tile and backer or scratched wire, people go with a 3/4 solid which are generally (unless you find a deal) higher in price. Plus if it is a wire job you may also have to replace some of the plywood flooring after the rip out. But keep in mind you need a flat surface to avoid all that tile rip out.
Q: Hi, I`m planning a bathroom remodel soon, and I want to use the same floor tiles as before - they are beautiful! But I just can`t find them anywhere (we bought this house recently and the previous owner did the remodel, and we can`t get hold of him any more). If anyone recognizes them, I`d be really grateful if you could point me in the direction of where to find them. Thank you SO much!Further info: the tiles are a fraction under 4 square and are a kind of gray-based quartz or granite (not sure of the difference, sorry!) with flecks of aquamarine and blue that give it an overall pale blue hue. They sit between plain white tiles with the corners shaped to accept the smaller blue squares.I`ve looked in Lowes, Home Depot, Amazon and online but so far no luck :( !
You will have to contact a company and request a catalog of their tiles that they manufacture. After a run of tiles are made the next run will not be the exact same to match. It's very possible that no manufacturing tile company is still making the tile. With the wear and glaze that the tile has it would be impossible to get a match. I suggest that you shop for tiles that will enhance and blend with what you have and you may even use hard wood and tile aquamarine color that will pull the color hue from your present tile. The hardwood and tiles are beautiful. Hope this helps. Interior Decorator. Jo Ann
Q: hi, we need to put tiles for a room of size 10x16 fts . we will be using 2x2 ft vitrified tiles. I want to know how many tiles are required and how the cost of tile is defined in shop. (price is for 1 piece or 1 sq feet ?)
34: if the comparable variable ison the two components of an equation ought to it have the comparable fee on the two components. clarify. for which equation is x=0 no longer a answer? a: 3x+2=2-x b 2.5x+3=x c: -x+4=3x+4 d: 6x+2=x+2 *i think of its b. am i precise?* sure. What does an equation propose? The x represents some unknown variety or numbers. they ought to be comparable on the two components or you may use a distinctive variable/letter.
Q: im going to tile the floor next weekend with 16x16 ceramic tile, and i could use some advice2 questions actually...1. when i lay my backerboard, and tape the staggered seams, do i keep that thinset over the tape very thin? im afraid of a hump in the floor when i go to lay tile.2. how much pressure do i apply when seting the tiles in the thinset? ive seen websites that show very little pressure..and some that show alot of pressure. does it need to float on the thinset or mash it down in the thinset. i just want this to turn out good...its my 1st time, and ive done alot of research, but the information varies from person to person. any added advice or tips on this project would be greatly appreciated.
The thinset is self leveling, so do not worry about the bump of the tape. The tiles need to be pressed down enough that the tile cement has a good coverage of the back of the tile. Try one, and see what coverage you get. Then do the same after wards. Sounds a bit difficult, but when you do it, then it will seem very straight forward. Good Luck

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